Info on pistol is as follows:

Hand Ejector
.32 Long CTG.
4" barrell
fixed sights
5 screw frame
has a strain screw
# 2039xx

What do i have? When was it sold?
It has US on the grips.

Welcome to the forum. That sounds like a .32 Hand Ejector Second Model from about 1913. Collectors would call it a Second Model/Fifth Change, but that's a little more detailed than you need to get for ordinary conversation.

Is the barrel actually 4-1/4" long measured from muzzle to front cylinder face? That was a standard length for .32s of this era.

The US grips would not be original on a S&W, but their presence raises the question of whether the gun might be an imitation. Does it have a circular S&W trademark stamp? Are there patent dates stamped on the barrel? Is the serial number on the butt repeated on the rear face of the cylinder and the flat underside of the barrel?

A photo or two would really help in this case.

__________________
David Wilson

Yep, sounds like you have your self a gun there!!!
Pic, would help and make?

upon closer inspection the grips don't fit very well so were probably retrofitted. It does have the circular S&W trademark on the right side of the pistol. When using a measuring device instead of looking it does indeed have a 4 1/4" barrel. Serial # is on the rear of cylinder, flat of barrel and bottom of grip frame. It has quite a few patents on the bbl. with the last one being sept. 16,1909. This was my Mother in laws purse pistol. When she died my wife got it and I was going to do a little research and clean up on it. I have seen it fired in the past but upon closer inspection it has a small bulge in the barrel at the sight. Is this common or should this pistol not be fired? working on some pics

2014121995114839.jpg

Hope this worked

It indeed looks like a righteous S&W as David identified' with wrong grips.

As long as the barrel is clear now, there's not a thing wrong with shooting it with the bulge in the barrel. In all my experiences, it's safe to shoot and will shoot as well as one w/o the bulge.

Here's a few things to check for safety.

Checking for push off:
I'd check for 'push off'. Make sure the gun is empty, then close the cylinder and cock the gun. Now, without touching the trigger, try to push the hammer off of its cocking notch with light thumb pressure. If you can do that, it will need action work.

If no problems found, oil interior well thru rhe cracks (no need to disassemble), wipe down the exterior and go shooting. They are great fun.

That is a serious safety issue that needs attention immediately. Either a new hammer needs to be installed (the way I'd go), or a GOOD gunsmith need to try to repair the damaged notch.

Loose cylinder:
If when closed the cylinder wiggles side to side 'excessively' or front to back, it has developed some wear that should be evaluated by a gunsmith. The cylinder should have minimum movement but tight and snug with hammer fully cocked.

Carry Up:
To test; the hammer should be thumb cocked very slowly and when the trigger sear is heard engaging the hammer full cock notch, the cyl bolt should snap into the cylinder notch at the same time. If the cyl has not turned far enough to engage the cyl stop, there is a "carry up" problem caused by worn parts; cyl ratchet and hand are worn causing poor "timing". Not good to shoot that way because the bullet in the cyl. chamber is not in alignment with the bore!

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

thanks for the help Hondo and David