I am going to be looking at a .38 M&P 1st Model which does not have the barrel locking lug, but the serial number is 231xx, which would make it a 2nd according to SCSW. Are the barrels of these numbered to the gun?

UPDATE: Went to look at this gun today and resolved the serial number mystery: They were using the assembly number rather than the serial number. The actual number falls within the 1st Model, but it is missing the ejector rod knob and the ejector star has been replaced with one numbered to a different gun. Worst part is that it has been drilled and tapped for a lanyard swivel, removing the first digit of the serial number! Here's the quandary: It is a TARGET MODEL and in fairly good shape! I'm thinking this is a parts gun, but I guess I'll see what sort of bids it gets at auction tomorrow. Sometimes you have to kiss a lot of frogs...

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Peter #2091

That would be a Model of 1902 (AKA Second Model), probably from 1903. I think barrels were SNed at that time. Others will know for sure. I'd think it may have a Model of 1899 barrel if it does not have a lug. The Model of 1899 also has a distinctive extractor rod knob.

From the SCS&W: On Hand ejectors through the late 1950s serial numbers were stamped on the frame, barrel flat, cylinder face, yoke, behind the ejector star, and right grip panel, along with the butt.

Yes, I know all this. What's throwing me is the fact that it has no locking lug on the barrel (which would make it a 1st Model) but the serial # falls within the 2nd Model. I haven't seen the gun yet, but will tomorrow. I guess the test will be to see if the barrel numbers to the gun. If it does, it is possible that the factory used up an earlier barrel. One of those weird things that pops up now and then.

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Peter #2091

Please see "Update" above.

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Peter #2091

I would avoid that one, for several obvious reasons.

Frankengun. Despite the target sights, I'd kiss it off unless it could be had for under $150 or so.

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David Wilson

Thank you David! My thoughts exactly.

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Peter #2091

The factory was known to add lanyard loops to finished revolvers by drilling through the serial number. The serial number would be restamped on the gripframe, under the grips.

A lot would depend on the price if you are truly interested.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Hmm - didn't think that the factory had done that. The hole is towards the rear of the butt, covering the first digit of the serial #. I would have thought the factory would drill in the middle, if at all. I didn't want risk breaking the old gutta percha grips since it was not my gun. Auction is tomorrow, I'll post what it sells for.

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Peter #2091

You probably don't want me to mention the part about the defaced S/N's being illegal, do ya? Thought so....

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

This gun ended up selling at auction for $325. I had reservations because of the missing ejector rod knob, which is probably impossible to find, being unique to that model. What really kept me from bidding was the defaced serial number. I use a C&R and don't want any issues with AT&F. The auctioneer conveyed the gun with the remnant of the serial # (the first digit missing because of the hole drilled through it).

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Peter #2091

That's about $325 more than I would have paid for it.