I am looking at an old pre model 10, sn 163312, two inch barrel, 5 screw, diamond grips, has had some rust around trigger guard that I have gotten off, probably a 70 plus % gun. Can anyone tell me when was it made and approximate value, thanks.

My pre-Model 10 # C186xxx was shipped in April 1952. Yours is probably a few months older. The short barrels seem to command a bit more than the longer barrels, around these parts a 70% snub nosed Pre-10 runs around $300-400 while the 4, 5, and 6 inch models run 250-300.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

On my SN list, the closest I have to yours is C1659xx which shipped in April 1951. Snubbies do have more market appeal than those with longer barrels from the same time perion and in the same condition. The C is part of the SN.

Thanks for the replies and info, I may keep this old revolver, it is like new mechanically and if had not had the rust around the edge of the trigger guard would be much higher rated.

I just noticed you did not mention a "C" prefix to the s/n. It may be several spaces to the left of the #. Without this prefix, it could indicate a much older revolver. A 38 M&P, with a cut barrel, and this # would date to 1909 - 1915. And with a cut barrel would reduce the value quite a bit.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

sn 163312 (no letter prefix) would indicate a revolver made prior to the time when 2" barrels were offered by the factory. C is the most logical prefix, as it would indicate the first possible snubby with the 163312 suffix. It is also possible that there could be a D163312 snubby (about 1970). A 2" replacement barrel on a very early frame is also possible but very improbable. A final possibility is a chopped Victory (V prefix).

Sorry, it is a c sn.

0000 Steel wool dipped in gun oil may help you to remove light rust. Of course be gentle! Bob

I used the frontier 45 pad, it works better, doesnt bother existing blue. You can use it on slick blue and it will not scratch it, and removes the rust.

Is it a round or square but frame? There were a few round but frames made post war. They seem to be more valuable. I have a nice one with pre-war features including round top service grips.
By the way, nice to see another Lay on the forum.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Hard to find a good Lay, yes it is a square butt.

DWalt, I'm curious I have a 2" snubbie with a serial very close to yours. Mine's C165972, just wondering how close they were to being together in the factory.
Thanks, Big

Here are the photos of the gun.

Attached Images

	IMG_5689 - Copy.jpg (49.4 KB, 104 views)
	IMG_5690.jpg (53.0 KB, 99 views)

Finally got pictures posted..

Very close, probably in the same assembly group. The full SN of the one I referenced is only approximately 20 higher.

Sorry, I meant approximately 20 lower.

Sorry, my sn is C 168312, old eyes failed me again.

OH man, pls do not use steel wool on a S&W, even in oil. Save it for
the Weber grill. Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

I didnt, used the frontier pad, doesnt scratch blue..

What is the best way to get old varnish off of handles and get down to the natural look?

Wipe it down with Acetone or MEK. Are you sure you want to do that?

I list C1688xx as shipping in 11/51.

I thought someone had put some varnish on them, one handle it is about gone. Did handles from this period have varnish?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dlay View Post
What is the best way to get old varnish off of handles and get down to the natural look?
Wipe it down with Acetone or MEK. Are you sure you want to do that?

I've a similar question on a 28-2 I picked up recently, which I'm certain someone varnished/lacquered (and thickly, too); will the removal of the varnish with repeated gentle wipings of acetone hurt the original grips themselves? I'm less worried about value (it and the gun are both shooters), but will it damage the stocks themselves?

Ain't that the truth?

I'd definitely keep that M&P.
K frame snubs are sweet.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

Acetone or MEK will not damage the wood. I have actually soaked old wood grips overnight in a MEK bath in cases where the finish is exceptionally damaged and dirty. Some believe it dries out the wood, which it well may, but I have not run into any problems. One must be careful, as both solvents have very low flash points. Work outside.

I would definitely hang on to that old revolver. No, they are not making 5 screw K frame revolvers anymore, and surely not with 2" barrels.

I really like it. Another great example of old school quality. It would be lots of fun shooting that snub!

I shot it six times, shot very well, as you say, lot of fun. I plan to shoot it some more in a few days.