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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 01-24-2016, 11:00 PM
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Default The New 1917

I hate to post about a gun without pictures so until the good light shows up here is a snapshot of the new 1917. Better pictures promised in the A. M.

A friend came by today with a friend of his toting this 1917. It's not a museum piece but it is all original, including the stocks. This crumby picture is of its worst side with corrosion and holster wear but the gun does show very well and I think tomorrow's pictures will show that. It's not early enough for the grooved hammer side but it is fairly early (48K). As promised, better pictures will be here in the morning. I can't wait to shoot this puppy.

Case colors are spectacular.
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Last edited by Retired W4; 01-24-2016 at 11:02 PM. Reason: case colors
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:26 PM
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It's looks great to be 95+ years old. I have two and neither of them look that good (subject to seeing new pictures).
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Old 01-25-2016, 02:48 AM
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Looks pretty darn nice. Why do you call it "The New 1917"? Did you buy it?
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Old 01-25-2016, 12:37 PM
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Looks pretty darn nice. Why do you call it "The New 1917"? Did you buy it?
I sure did buy it. I could not pass it up. The wear is above the grip panels and a small rub on the left side of the barrel. They just don't show up around here in this condition and at a bargain price (Under 5 bills). It's a gun that you really wish would talk to you. It goes very well with my USMC 1903.
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File Type: jpg 1917 full 001.jpg (256.2 KB, 216 views)
File Type: jpg 1917 full 002.jpg (199.6 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg 1917 full 004.jpg (173.9 KB, 176 views)
File Type: jpg 1917 full 005.jpg (140.4 KB, 176 views)
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Old 01-25-2016, 02:51 PM
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Nice Score!!
Just a suggestion, but if those "corrosion" scars bother you, you might try a little Brownell's Oxypho and some 0000 steel wool.
It won't make them go away, but it will make them less contrasty. (is that a word?) I have found that several applications rubbed out between each one works wonders. It will wear off with use, so nothing is permanent.

(Just don't let Supica sniff your gun.....)
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:59 PM
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Nice Score!!
Just a suggestion, but if those "corrosion" scars bother you, you might try a little Brownell's Oxypho and some 0000 steel wool.
It won't make them go away, but it will make them less contrasty. (is that a word?) I have found that several applications rubbed out between each one works wonders. It will wear off with use, so nothing is permanent.

(Just don't let Supica sniff your gun.....)
Hey, thanks for the tip. I've not used it before but I have heard a lot of good on it. Don't know if it's a word but it does convey the idea.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:37 PM
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I hope the one I'm waiting to show up at the FFL looks half as nice! Good score.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:43 PM
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Hey Tom, here's a suggestion for ya. Take those little smooth grips off & get rid of that ugly lanyard ring. Put a nice set of Target grips on it, VOILA! Probably won't even notice that little bit of corrosion!!

Nice piece! You gonna be at Gainesville in 2 weeks?
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Old 01-25-2016, 11:29 PM
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Hey, thanks for the tip. I've not used it before but I have heard a lot of good on it. Don't know if it's a word but it does convey the idea.
I use the Oxpho Blue cream and/or Nu Blue. I think you’ll have decent and similar results, however, contrary to the test below, I heat the metal for both products. Oxpho Blue also performs better with heat, any cold blue does. And I like the cream for controlling application and staying where you put it.

I don't see any rust so I wouldn't make it worse with steel wool, just clean very well with acetone. Heat the surface with a hair dryer and apply Oxpho blue cream, not the liquid, Or Nu Blue. Do not get either on the existing blue, it will stain it and just make the repair area larger.

Bluing product test shows Nu Blue the best but Oxpho is a close 2nd. Read the test here and make your choice:
Evaluation of several cold bluing products (w/pics) | Gunsmithing | 24hourcampfire
Buy Nu Blue here: Welcome to the Stock Doc Store

Also, checkout Blue Wonder at Brownells:
GUN BLUE & BLACK KITS | Brownells
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Old 01-25-2016, 11:33 PM
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Hey Tom, here's a suggestion for ya. Take those little smooth grips off & get rid of that ugly lanyard ring. Put a nice set of Target grips on it, VOILA! Probably won't even notice that little bit of corrosion!!
Tom,

Good idea by Ken.
Use the factory stocks for show.

If you're gonna shoot it, you'll like factory target stocks much more. And you don't even need to remove the lanyard swivel:

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Old 01-25-2016, 11:48 PM
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Hey Tom, I just had another great idea. Get a set of those oversize Pachmayrs with the hole in the bottom of them. Covers the icky stuff and you don't have to remove the lanyard thingy! Won't look too good, but hey it will serve a purpose! Oh man, that gun's gonna look great!

Can't wait to see it!
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:38 PM
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" It goes very well with my USMC 1903. "

Need pictures of that, too!
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Old 01-26-2016, 03:37 PM
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" It goes very well with my USMC 1903. "

Need pictures of that, too!
This is too dark but not bad at the right angle. Thanks for the links Jim, and the advice. We will be at Gainsville, Ken. I'll bring it.

I call the 03 a USMC rifle because it has many of the features enumerated by B. Canfield, such as the Hatcher hole, SN on bolt, punch mark in front of SN, etc.

BTW, I shot it today and I'm really happy with its performance. Put the front sight in the dead middle of the target at 10 yards and that is where it hit. The action is great!
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Old 01-26-2016, 03:46 PM
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Very nice Tom! I like it!
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Old 01-26-2016, 04:48 PM
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"I call the 03 a USMC rifle because it has many of the features enumerated by B. Canfield, such as the Hatcher hole, SN on bolt, punch mark in front of SN, etc.

BTW, I shot it today and I'm really happy with its performance. Put the front sight in the dead middle of the target at 10 yards and that is where it hit. The action is great!"

I could hit a bullseye dead center with a 1903 at 10 yards too!

Yeah, I realize you were talking about 1917 S&W.

Nice combo.
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Muley Gil View Post
"I call the 03 a USMC rifle because it has many of the features enumerated by B. Canfield, such as the Hatcher hole, SN on bolt, punch mark in front of SN, etc.

BTW, I shot it today and I'm really happy with its performance. Put the front sight in the dead middle of the target at 10 yards and that is where it hit. The action is great!"

I could hit a bullseye dead center with a 1903 at 10 yards too!

Yeah, I realize you were talking about 1917 S&W.

Nice combo.
OOPS!! And that was only my first Dickel. Thanks for the good laugh friend.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:40 PM
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Good score, I like the early large bore Smiths and consider the model of 1917 a terrific revolver to "tote" just about anywhere. I have a Brazilian model of the 1917 shortened to 4" and had a Baughman style front sight with red ramp installed, I also installed a Wondersight and the combination has turned it into one of my favorite carrying pieces. I have an old well worn Lawrence holster that fits it like a glove.
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by deadin View Post
Nice Score!!
Just a suggestion, but if those "corrosion" scars bother you, you might try a little Brownell's Oxypho and some 0000 steel wool.
It won't make them go away, but it will make them less contrasty. (is that a word?) I have found that several applications rubbed out between each one works wonders. It will wear off with use, so nothing is permanent.

(Just don't let Supica sniff your gun.....)
If you want to hide some flaws try...thebullshooter touch up bluing at home. The methods listed are different from manufacturers.
I have done it a couple of times with favorable results. Bob
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Old 01-29-2016, 11:24 AM
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Pls,. no steel wool. Cotton T-shirt and oil.
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:20 PM
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Blue Wonder sells a cleaner that will remove rust and also "warm" blue touchup.
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:04 PM
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After much deliberation on this gun I've come to realize that one thing that really attracted me to it is the original condition. Like I said before it is no museum piece but it is perfect mechanically, very accurate, and pretty darned nice visually. I've decided to keep it clean and waxed and all original and shoot it from time to time.
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Old 01-29-2016, 02:28 PM
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Thar ya go!!
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