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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 02-01-2016, 05:29 PM
TBONETOM TBONETOM is offline
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I have a Snub nose 5 shot 38 S&W ctg there are 5 screws on side plate , fixed sights, 2 inch barrel, s/n 55xxx, there is no model number, plus one screw is missing from side plate at the top by the hammer. I would like to find a replacement for the screw. any info of manufacture date and replacement parts would help me get this gun back in service also the cylinder is hard to release

Last edited by handejector; 02-02-2016 at 12:37 PM. Reason: merging threads
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:42 PM
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Just to make sure which frame size we are dealing with, does it hold five or six shots?

Last edited by handejector; 02-02-2016 at 12:38 PM. Reason: merged threads
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for the reply. it is a 5 shot
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:55 AM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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Welcome to the Forum.

This is the place to be for knowledge of Smith & Wesson.

It sounds like you have a .38/32 Terrier, from around 1948. Model numbers were assigned in 1957 and this model became the M32. The ".38/32 means that it is a .38 built on a .32 frame.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:09 AM
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Welcome to the best S&W forum and a nice place.

The screw should be available from somewhere like Midway USA. Search for S&W screws. There are several different screws on that gun. There are 2 regular sideplate screws, the one high on the frame by the grips, the one in front of the trigger guard and the one at the yoke. Which are you missing?
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:14 PM
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Yes, that sounds like a .38/32 Terrier from about 1951. The model name just means it is a .38 caliber revolver built on the .32 caliber frame. Someone here on the forum may have a sideplate screw that would work for you. If you are not contacted based on your original post, put a NEED or WANT notice in the appropriate classified section.

Sticky releases can indicate the need for an interior cleaning. Open the cylinder and operate the thumb latch back and forth to see if you feel any resistance there. Make sure the frame- mounted plunger that moves the cylinder's center pin is all the way forward when the cylinder is open.

If that's OK, push the center pin in the middle of the ratchet on the rear face of the cylinder in and out to see if that moves smoothly. With the center pin depressed, check to see that the other end of the center pin comes all the way to the end of the ejector rod. Sometimes a center pin gets stiff with carbon and congealed oil, and you need to lubricate it. The best way to do it is to take apart the cylinder assembly, but pay attention to the springs and their proper orientation so you can get it back together the right way.

Finally, or actually this should be your first step, make sure the ejector rod is screwed all the way into the cylinder. If it isn't all the way in, it is artificially lengthened and the center pin won't travel far enough forward to push the barrel-mounted latch pin completely out of the ejector rod that holds it in place when the cylinder is closed.

Post pictures if you can. Look up the phrase "postwar terrier" through the forum search feature and you should find some pictures. Terriers of any age and model variation are much appreciated by many forum members.
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Last edited by DCWilson; 02-02-2016 at 02:13 PM. Reason: Edit for clarity (I hope).
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:24 PM
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Thanks for all the info will look closer to the ejector area latter today. again thank you
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:44 PM
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It was the ejector the screw end backed out a little. found the screw on brownells. you guys are the best thanks to everyone
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Old 02-02-2016, 05:49 PM
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Before you order anything, be aware that the upper sideplate screw is different from the other sideplate screws, as it has a larger head and is much shorter.
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Old 02-04-2016, 09:54 AM
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That is the screw I need it goes right next to the hammer and has a beveled head. I shot it yesterday at 12 yards. keeps them all in the black
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:18 PM
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The only other identifier we might want to discuss is "improved" or not. Until just about the time yours was made, the I-frame guns used the leaf-type mainspring (essentially like a smaller K-frame.). However, somewhere along in that time frame, there was an engineering change to a coil mainspring, presaging the development of the J-frame guns. A quick way to tell which you have is to look near the bottom of the front strap (of the grip) for a screw head. Screw head present, leaf spring, absent, coil spring. Both have their adherents, for instance I prefer the leaf while DC Wilson has said he likes the coil... both work well! Some of us have started using a verbal shorthand and calling the earlier guns "six screw" variants to distinguish easily which we are discussing. BTW, that top screw seems to get lost more often than the others for some reason, so when you do find one be sure to check it for tightness periodically.

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  #12  
Old 02-09-2016, 11:57 AM
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Thanks Green Frog mine does have a leaf spring. also a friend of mine had the screw I needed. now my wife likes it so much she thinks she has to keep it for her carry gun
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