Saw this and had to get after seeing the caliber listed as a 32-20.
There is no model number, the serial number is 188XX.
What can you tell me about this revolver?

It is a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1902. It was made in about 1905. The cartridge designation at that time (on the barrel) should read 32 Winchester CTG.

Unsurprising, since model numbers didn't show up on hand ejectors until 53 years after your revolver was made.

This one appears to be in poor condition, but it could still be a nice shooter.

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Jack, thanks for the information.

Going to take it to a gunsmith to clean up any rust, and go over it to ensure it is in shooting condition.

Didn't think the previous owner was going to do anything but let it deteriorate further. So decided to get it and hope for the best which is it checks out to be safe to shoot.

The 32/20 cartridge can be expensive to buy. I hope you reload.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Me likee.
I can't resist a good rescue opportunity.

The very few .32-20 revolvers I have listed with reasonably close serial numbers shipped in the 1906-07 period. Yours could easily have been manufactured in 1905. .32 Winchester, .32 WCF, and .32-20 are different names for the same cartridge. Gun show prices for .32-20 ammunition are usually around $60/box. Still made, but most retailers do not stock it. Serious shooters will load their own.

tlay, reloading is something I enjoy. If it comes back from the gunsmith with his seal of approval then I'll be having some fun shooting it.

Here's my .32-20 that I had restored. It was without finish when I bought it.
I'll probably never recover what I have in to it, but it pleases me and I don't care! BTW, those are not the original grips, which are hard rubber, but I think these dress it up pretty well.

About half that, plus or minus, if one shops around online.

BlackAgnes ---

Your replacement grips - are they repros? They look great , but also new. Reason for asking - I have a 1902 in need of grips.

Leverman - you have a great project there. Any LERK is a good LERK in my book.

Restored or not, that is a beautiful firearm. A few generations from now, it'll be a highly sought after "older restoration".

Husker,

Welcome to the forum.

No need to take to a gunsmith and spend more money on it.

Old gun cleaning and safety check protocol:
Simply put, the only usual issue with these marvels of yesteryear is they are gummed up and dirty. Old oils of its time do not match the quality of these old guns nor the science of today, and actually dry up and harden to the point of impeding operation and accelerating wear. The simple solution does not need a gunsmith. Just one of many premium modern gun care products from any sporting goods, gun store or hardware store.

Most are both cleaning and preserving agents; Breakfree, Kroil & M-Pro7 are some of the best, but there are others. Disassembly is not necessary. With grips removed and a spray can version of the product, flood and flush the revolver thru every opening and crevice until the black gunk stops flowing out, let it drain for an hour and wipe it down thoroughly with the same product.

Scrub barrel bore and cylinder chambers with a simple cleaning rod kit found at the same places as the cleaning agents above; patches cut from rags is all you really need. And scrub any observed exterior and crevice crud with an old toothbrush with bristles cut off short for stiffness.

To remove grips: loosen the grip screw completely and carefully push down on the screw head until the bottom grip separates, then remove. Now carefully push the top side grip off with a finger or toothbrush from the backside thru the grip frame.

For rust spots, use Bronze wool, not steel wool, size 0000 and toothbrush with bristles cut short, and a rust removing agent/gun cleaner like M-Pro 7 (odor free), Kroil or Breakfree and gentle scrubbing.

Rust pitting must have all red color removed to arrest it's cancerous growth (use 5x glasses or stronger to see progress).
Then re-oil or wax over; Renaissance wax is the favorite of most. Rust pits can only be removed with a re-finish.

Once cleaned and lubricated, with a few simple checks you can determine if it’s safe to use. Open the cylinder and verify the barrel is unobstructed. Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks. If satisfactory, now operate the gun by pulling the trigger slowly until the hammer drops. Again, confirm each time after cycling the action, that the cyl is still locked in position.

Cylinders can have fore and aft movement and rotational movement. Check rotational movement with the hammer cocked; there shouldn't be much when cocked. That's all that is really important from a safety concern. Then unless you experience 'spitting' at the barrel/cyl gap when fired, you have no reason for concern.

Shoot it to your hearts delight, and it will delight you with its fine accuracy, and comfortable recoil.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Leverman's 32-20 is not a LERK, it has the 'mushroom' or 'acorn' extractor rod knob.

LERK (large extractor rod knob) refers to post war models that have the pre war 'barrel' style extractor rod knobs left over from the 1930s. Named LERK because the barrel knob is larger than the post war new style straight extractor rod.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

But if you buy only a box, shipping will about eat up the difference.

If you have a Cabela's in your area you can order 32-20 from their web site and have is shipped to the store saving you shipping they have it for around $35.00 for a box of 50.

Hondo ,
I thought that all of the ejector rod knobs which were separately tooled , threaded on parts , larger in diameter than the rod itself , fit the definition of LERK. Perhaps I am mistaken.

It's an understandable assumption but terms like LERK come about because they have some period significance.

For example, the term "5 screw": most (but not all) pre war hand ejectors are 5 screws but not called that because it has no significance until the mid 1950s when some screws began to be eliminated. Then 5 screw , 4 screw, and 3 screw terms are used to signify exactly which vintage or version of a particular model one is referring to from the years before dash numbers signified engineering changes.

Hence a LERK (large extractor rod knob) signifies an unusual and desirable feature of early post war models; it tells us if a model has the pre war 'barrel' style extractor rod knob left over from the 1930s and war years because it's an exception to the more common post war period new style straight extractor rod.

Like the "5 screw" term, LERK has no significance for pre war models. In fact it's confusing in the pre war context because it doesn't signify between the 'mushroom' separate knob, 'mushroom' integral knob, or 'barrel' knob.

Also, mushroom and barrel knobs are all separately tooled, threaded on parts; only prior to ~ 1917. After that they are machined integral with the rod. And pre war shrouded extractors all have barrel style knobs but aren't called barrel knobs because again, there is no significance, everyone already knows pre war shrouded extractors all have the barrel style knobs. And referring to barrel knobs is only significant after the change from mushroom to barrel style ordered on 1/22/27.

I hope this is helpful,

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Hondo44, thanks for the great post. I did take it to a local gunsmith, one reason is he has held several National & Texas Pistol championships, and he likes these older revolvers, and come to find out 32-20 is favorite cartridge of his as well. The other reason was to have him check the internals. It cleaned up well, definitely a shooter, and his thoughts were to not refinish it, that was my leaning as well.

"...his thoughts were to not refinish it..."

As would be the advice of about 95% of those on this forum.

My local leg actually carries 32 30