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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 04-26-2016, 10:44 PM
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Hey, I have a five screw, hand ejector, .38 s&w special ctg, revolver I'm curious about. I believe it's a pre model 10, it's stamped H inside the yoke. The front strap has the screw for spring adjustment. S# starts with what I assume is a V and would be V119** . I'd love to find out a bit more about it. It isn't in the best shape, but shoots great, I'm trying to decide whether or not to refinish it. Thanks
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:53 AM
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.....It isn't in the best shape, but shoots great, I'm trying to decide whether or not to refinish it. Thanks
You should make sure to familiarize yourself with the original factory finish of a Victory model. The dull greyish-black wartime finish is pretty ugly compared to a classic blued finish, and people have mistaken a well-preserved original Victory finish for heavy wear and patina. Since a refinish will wipe out any collector value, that decision needs to be weighed carefully.

See the attached pictures for a like-new Victory finish.
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File Type: jpg V5.JPG (43.2 KB, 35 views)
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:27 AM
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Ohh well I guess I lucked out. It has a nickel finish so I assume someone already refinished it, and that explains why the markings are so hard to read. Thanks a bunch guys.
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:43 AM
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Ohh well I guess I lucked out. It has a nickel finish so I assume someone already refinished it, and that explains why the markings are so hard to read. Thanks a bunch guys.
If you just bought it, I hope you didn't pay much. You definitely do not want to waste your money on refinishing an already refinished gun having minimal value to start with. Victories were never plated at the factory.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:13 AM
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I don't necessarily agree with DWalt. It's your gun. I've looked at refinishing an older S&W recently. A reblue with polish is about $300, nickel is higher. Is that a waste of money? Maybe to DWalt, maybe not to you. The collector value is already gone. All about what you want to do and how much money you want to spend to have the gun look the way you want it to. Many here on the S&W forum are all about collector value. You have a fine shooter. I'd probably keep it in its existing condition, but again, it's entirely up to you.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:28 AM
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I don't necessarily agree with DWalt. It's your gun. I've looked at refinishing an older S&W recently. A reblue with polish is about $300, nickel is higher. Is that a waste of money? Maybe to DWalt, maybe not to you. The collector value is already gone. All about what you want to do and how much money you want to spend to have the gun look the way you want it to. Many here on the S&W forum are all about collector value. You have a fine shooter. I'd probably keep it in its existing condition, but again, it's entirely up to you.
Putting a $300 refinish on a $300 pistol keeps the economy moving . . .
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:51 AM
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Good point DWalt, paid 300 for it, which may be a bit high for its condition but it's the most accurate 3 inch I've shot, and I'm planning on carrying it as a backup (if I can Pry it away from my wife). So I'm happy with it. I enjoy the fact that it's from that time period.

I'd actually prefer to blue it, but with the nickel already on it that may not be the best option. But who knows what I'll end up doing.

Thanks a bunch guys, great info and opinions.
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:32 AM
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If it is already refinished, you are free to do whatever you like. Or rather, since it's your gun and you can do so anyways, nobody is going to try to make you feel bad about doing so .

The only consideration, as has been alluded to already, is econonomical: Unless you are a projects guy and enjoy doing things like this yourself, the cost of a good refinishing job will almost be enough to buy another original-finish shooter-grade Victory.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:15 PM
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Good point, I wasn't sure about cost vs value.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:32 PM
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! You say it's a 3" barrel? Victories were mostly 4" or 5". 38 Specials were primarily 4". Are you measuring the barrel length from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle? If so, the barrel has also been cut. Does it have the front locking lug under the barrel? Perhaps a picture is in order.
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Old 04-27-2016, 04:49 PM
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Thanks Wiregrass, it may be a 4, I'm actually just guessing by eye. It does have the locking lug. I'll post a pic when I figure out how.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:34 PM
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A late pick of the victory in question
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