I have a line on a 1956 what I think is re-nickeled 4 inch pre 27. It's has the diamond grips, that are numbered to the gun. No "N" on the frame. Only marking is "s" on the frame. Roll marks are clear. Trigger is case hardened but hammer is nickel.

Any advice on price would be appreciated.

Mike

Mike please post some pics. A factory nickel gun should have the N stamp but anything is possible. Also, the front sight should be blued and not nickeled. The 4" length is also very scarce and if this revolver is authentic it could be worth a nice premium


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Kris
OGCA, NRA LM

Originally blued if no N on grip frame. Plated hammer also a tip off.

Are you certain he barrel has not been cut? Any modifications on a gun causes me to question everything else. I would not pay a premium for a rare gun that didn't have the letter to confirm original configuration.

IMO a rare gun not in collector condition isn't worth a whole lot more over a common variation. But that's me.

But you're the one looking at it. Why ask us what it's worth? You have to decide what it's worth to you. Refinished and maybe modified it wouldn't be worth a whole lot to me.

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Mike:
It is reasonable to seek price advice, but it is not always easy to give it, in any kind of meaningful way, that is.

What is the seller asking for it? Is he making any claims about it being the original finish?

I would tread slowly. S&W did not nickel hammers so that supports the suspicion that it is refinished. I suppose almost anything is possible, but you would want convincing evidence that it is original before paying collector prices for this one.

If it functions properly and you don't mind the probable refinish, the rule of thumb is that any N-Frame in good working order is worth $500, give or take, depending on condition. You could go up from there a little if you really like it.

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The. Advice above is solid. I paid 550 for a pre 28 5 screw last year that had a fair nickel job on it. It came with 3 boxes of 357. The gun shoots good now but I did have to clean the **** out of it to remove the ring in the cylinders left from some one shooting 38's in it. I also had trouble with the extractor rod getting loose during firing. This would cause the gun to bind and make it aggravating to open. I was able to fix these problems myself. It now functions great and shoots well. I really like mine. I guess the only thing that I would like to add to the comments above is check the function of the gun. Make sure it is solid. No push off! That it locks up tight. Trigger works properly hammer locks back correctly Try it out in single and double action. If it doesn't feel right leave it. You don't want to buy some one else's headache. If all the before mentioned look good I would think it would fall between 5 to 6 bills and would only ever be a shooter grade. But who cares right. I was and still am a shooter. I only recently started collecting. If the grips a in good shape you should be able to get 100 - 150 for them that would help offset the cost. Good luck.

I decided to pass after a real hard look the gun. The S&W logo as pretty well buffed out. The rest of the roll marks were fine I decided to take a pass on the gun. He was asking ~$600. I decided to wait for a better example to pop up. Thanks for all of your help.

I would probably pass too. I don't like nickel much and this being a re-nickel only makes it worse.

Still, $600 for a pre-27 4" ... someone will buy it and be happy he got it!

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You're shy a few manners.

I think you messed up, 4 inch pre 27 are scarce, even with a re-nickel the gun is worth considerably more than $600, one recently sold for over $5000 on GB and it had been cut for a red front sight insert. but on a positive note someone will thank you for passing.

You may be right, Smokey.

Keep in mind that for all we know, the barrel has been cut down.

Still, at $600 it may be a bargain.

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