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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 06-14-2016, 10:06 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Hello I just bought me a S&W 38 Special hand ejector model and I would like to know if anyone can tell me the year my smith is from. Serial no. S9015
Thank you.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:10 PM
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there should be two more digits which you can replace with Xs if you don't want to post the entire number. from what you posted i'll go out on a limb and say 1947. pictures would be nice too. lee
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:14 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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I am very new to this. How can I post pictures.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:17 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Default just wondering

If I post my last two digits will it be more helpful to know more information about the gun?
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeymike_88 View Post
If I post my last two digits will it be more helpful to know more information about the gun?
Yes. With the full serial number and a couple photos, I should be able to supply quite bit of info for you, including a rough estimate of when the gun probably left the factory. The caveat is that once in a while there is a significant flier, since S&W did not ship in serial order. But in the '46-'48 period, they were generally pretty regular.
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:15 PM
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Mike if you go to Go Advanced reply you will see a symbol that looks like a paper clip it is about three symbols down from the smiley face at the top of the box you can use this to upload pictures to your post.
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:17 PM
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Well, I see you posted the full number elsewhere here on the Forum. Here is what you provided:
Quote:
S901543


This one most likely shipped in April or May of 1947. I show about 50 of them that shipped in those months, ranging from S880xxx to S905xxx. There are many gaps in my data at that point, but clearly a lot of M&Ps went out the door in that serial range during those two months.

Looking forward eagerly to seeing some pics of your revolver.
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:53 AM
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Just testing how to post pictures
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:14 AM
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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The closest M&P I have listed to your SN is S9012xx which shipped in 5/47. There was a high demand for civilian M&Ps in the postwar years, so they didn't reside in factory inventory very long. There is every reason to believe yours probably shipped within a month of that.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:26 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Talking What a beauty....

Here are some pictures
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:32 PM
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Very nice and my birth year too. I have a couple of 4 inchers from 1948 but no 1947.
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:00 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Question Answer me this please

The young guy at the shop told me to not use +p ammo that it will not be safe. Is this true? I think it sounds correct but I want to be sure.
And what frame is this gun ? I think is a K frame is that correct?
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:37 PM
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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I wish mine looked so good. Your 5" barrel looks classier than the more common 4".

It is a K frame. S&W approves +P in steel K frames made recently enough to have been stamped with a model number or approximately 1958 and newer. However, that does not mean that a 1956 pre-Model 10 will bust on firing a +P cartridge. Lots of people have fired lots of +P .38 Special in revolvers like yours.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:31 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Since my gun is from 1947 I would think that firing +p ammo is not good for the gun.
And this one does not have a model number
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeymike_88 View Post
The young guy at the shop told me to not use +p ammo that it will not be safe. Is this true?
As said above, it's not unsafe, and the gun will not blow up. But as with any older collectible, the question is always, why would you want to? I keep +P loads in a few older collectible M&P's that do double duty at my house as back-up home defense, but I don't shoot the stuff just for fun. If one enjoys more noise and recoil, one should just buy a .357.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:18 PM
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Mike
That was a very nice find. I've accumulated a few of these and few are as nice as that one. Congrats.

I'm with Absalom on the +P question. It would likely do no harm, but it is rather pointless. Enjoy that revolver with 148 grain wadcutters. You will never get tired of it. The long action will amaze you with its buttery release.

Cheers.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:22 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Question thanks

Thanks to all of you for the info.
I find that the 38 special ammo is not very cheap.
Just about every place I have Checked is about $20 for 50 rounds
Or $40 for 100, what do all you shooters of 38 special recommend for buying ammo? Is the price alway the same everywhere?
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:16 PM
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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10 years ago I occasionally splurged and fired a $7 box of .38 target loads. $20 is too much for a guy who can go to his reloading press. Unfortunately for revolver enthusiasts who do not reload the least expensive ammo fits 9 mm autos.

Teach yourself to reload. Start by buying a manual from a manufacturer of bullets, powders or reloading tools. An old one from a used book store will do. It is the chapter on how to reload and judge the pressure of the cartridges that you assemble that you are after.

Perhaps suggesting books reveals my age more than anything else. You can also learn a lot through your computer. However, I would not use a load suggested by an individual without first comparing it to data from the reloading industry.
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Old 06-16-2016, 03:31 PM
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I have a fair number of Model 10s and their precursors, the M&P dating from roughly 1910 to 1985. For hand loading 38 specials, you can do it very cheaply by simply buying a Lee Press that loads one at a time. With a 38 special set of dies plus the extra crimp die, a beam scale, primers, powder and a set of calipers, plus a good reloading book, and 158 grain 0.358 sized lead semi-wadcutter bullets plus 38 Special cases (you can pick up 500 once fired very cheaply), you can easily load the 500 rounds on a rainy day, or over a few hours spread over some nights.

I reckon, since my reloading apparatus is totally amortized, as are my 38 special cases, that it costs the following (not including your time). Powder (~5 cents), Primer (~3 cents), bullet (~6 cents). Total 14 cents per round. A lot different from the 40 cents per round for commercial. Dave_n
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:05 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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I LOVE MY GUN... it has that old wester feel to it
I can't wait to go shoot it
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeymike_88 View Post
Thanks to all of you for the info.
I find that the 38 special ammo is not very cheap.
Just about every place I have Checked is about $20 for 50 rounds
Or $40 for 100, what do all you shooters of 38 special recommend for buying ammo? Is the price alway the same everywhere?
That's what it costs in 2016..
Handloading your own,only pays off if you're shooting quite a bit.
I never felt the need when I had a .38,or any other gun.I usually did most of my shooting with a .22,and the .38 went through one box maximum.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:21 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Can someone tell me the value of my gun?
So I could know if I over paid....
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:53 PM
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I picked up a 1947-48 5" last year. Condition is not as nice as yours. Paid $300 for it. Had some folks tell me it was a good, but not great deal. Just guessing, but I would think yours would be worth $425-$450.
I am sure more qualified opinions will be offered.
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:01 AM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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JP@AK I used 148 grain wadcutters like you said. I just got back from the range
And shot it for the first time since I bought it, I love it thanks to all of you guys for the info. I cleaned it up and oiled it very good wen I got home. Looks even better than it did when I bought it. It's a KEEPER
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:06 AM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Question

Is it normal for my hammer to have some kind of short cocking action?
Because I was playing with the trigger and hammer and found that it can be set on wat looks to be half Cocked.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:24 PM
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As far as 38 ammo without loading your own, $20 is sadly about where it is. Sometimes you can find a sale at big stores ( cabelas bass pro gander mountain etc) where you might get down to about $16. That is about as good as you can do these days
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:51 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Question can someone answer please me this

Is it normal for my hammer to have some kind of short cocking action?
Because I was playing with the trigger and hammer and found that it can be set on wat looks to be half Cocked.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:07 PM
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The Military & Police has no half-cock. If that happens, You are probably arranging the internals in a non-standard position. Probably shouldn't do that. Just use the regular single- and double-action trigger pulls.
Welcome to the wonderful world of the M&P !

Larry
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:21 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Why can it lock up in that setting?
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:41 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Cool model 13 question

I am interested in buying a model 13 in a 3" barrel
Since there are many 13 models and they all have a dash model number wich model is oldest and wat are the differences?
I will be happy for any info you can give me.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:11 PM
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Mike
The Model 13 was introduced in 1974, marked as the Model 13-1. There never was a Model 13 with no dash number, because it already had the dash one features (left hand threaded extractor rod, 3 screw frame and heavy barrel) when it was first produced as the .357 Magnum version of the Model 10-6.

So, the order goes like this (by year of introduction):
13-1 - 1974
13-2 - 1977
13-3 - 1982
13-4 - 1988
13-5 - 1997
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:13 PM
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And, Mike, when you want to change the subject like this in a thread, it is best if you start a new thread. That way, we can keep all the threads separated by subject and it is easier for all of us to find the information again later.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:24 PM
Mikeymike_88 Mikeymike_88 is offline
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I have noticed that some models are named the outdoorsman and some are target models what is the difference?
Is mine either of one?
I recall the seller saying that this one is a target model, was he correct?
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:47 PM
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Whoa..... pump the brakes turbo
You are 1 step away from a very greasy slope!
I joined 2 years ago researching a K-22 Masterpiece I inherited, now I have 14 Smiths.
Be careful my friend, these ole girls will put you in the poor house

To answer your question about the seller, no. He was incorrect. It's Military & Police. Non adjustable rear sight.

Target model Military & Police (M&P) variations were made, but are scarce. I wouldn't say they are rare (gotta be careful using that term around here).

Stick around, it's a great place. Good company and lots of good information. Nice S&W by the way. That 1 line address is so darn cool.
Bob
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:59 PM
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"I have noticed that some models are named the outdoorsman and some are target models what is the difference?
Is mine either of one?
I recall the seller saying that this one is a target model, was he correct?"


It really doesn't make much difference, just a name. During the 1930s, prior to WWII, S&W made a K-22 Outdoorsman (actually in two different versions) which had an adjustable rear sight, basically a target model K-frame M&P, except in .22 RF instead of .38 Special. After WWII, it came back (with some design changes such as a short action and a barrel rib) as the K-22 Masterpiece. Either one could be used for competitive target shooting. S&W also made an N-frame .38/44 revolver with adjustable sights called the .38/44 Outdoorsman.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:01 PM
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JP@AK JP@AK is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Originally Posted by Mikeymike_88 View Post
I have noticed that some models are named the outdoorsman and some are target models what is the difference?
Is mine either of one?
I recall the seller saying that this one is a target model, was he correct?
First, I assume we are again talking about your S prefix Military & Police revolver and not the thread-drift Model 13.

Second, as has been pointed out, your revolver has a fixed rear sight, so it isn't a target model of any name. It would fit into the general category of a "service revolver" with fixed sights.

Third - and this will address the confusion caused by the name game as well as your seller's incorrect info - all of the handguns that S&W called the Outdoorsman's (commonly referred to as an "Outdoorsman") were target sight guns, but not all target sight S&W revolvers were called by that name. So far as I know, only two lines were given the Outdoorsman's name:

1. The first K frame .22 rimfire, which was a target revolver with an adjustable rear sight, introduced in 1931. As DWalt explained, this name was eventually superseded (in 1940) by the name Masterpiece.

2. The target sight version of the .38/44 N frame revolver chambered for the .38 Special, also introduced in 1931 (November, to be specific). It was called by the factory the .38/44 Outdoorsman's. The fixed sight variation of this same revolver was introduced about 18 months earlier (April, 1930) and was called the .38/44 Heavy Duty. Unlike their .22 caliber cousin, the .38/44 revolvers retained their respective names when reintroduced after WWII.

I hope this is helpful.
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  #37  
Old 01-11-2017, 10:21 PM
lebomm lebomm is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Mike;
Regarding your "half-cocking" M&P, I have several M&P revolvers, and none of them will do this. You should probably have a good 'smith have a look at it. You may have an internal mechanical problem, or even one as simple as an action full of dirt & old grease. Please do keep us posted.

Larry
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  #38  
Old 01-12-2017, 02:33 AM
k22fan k22fan is offline
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Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special Question on my post war smith and wesson 38 special  
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Mike,
First I want to comment your M&P's hammer sticking half way back. As previously posted it should not do that. I did not comment sooner because I have not had to fix that problem and have little hope of diagnosing its cause without the revolver in hand. I suggest starting a thread specifically on that problem in the S&Wsmithing sub-forum where it will be answered by, among others, gunsmiths.

Second, a 3" Model 13 will be more expensive than the more common 4". That's partly due to the quantities manufactured and partly due to what's in vogue. I prefer adjustable sights on a .357 Magnum. There is too much difference in velocity between .38 and .357s to hope they will have the same point of impact at distance. If you are only going to shoot .357s a larger frame or the new Model 66-8 will hold up better. That said, Model 13s are popular here.

Last edited by k22fan; 01-14-2017 at 12:12 AM.
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