What we have is this:

Nickel .38 Special
4" barrel measured from cylinder to muzzle
6 round, hand ejector cylinder
Serial Number 660057
No model number under the yoke, just a four digit build number.
Hand ejector style trench rear sight
Front sight integral with barrel, and semi-circular in shape.
No lug around ejector rod

Not quite savvy enough yet to make picture fit the 800x800 requirement, but I'll be happy to email to anyone who wishes to contact me.

Thank you all,

Tracy.

Not an expert but sounds like a Military & Police Model from around 1930 +/-. Without seeing hard to tell if finish is original. If hammer and trigger are plated sure sign it is not original. Not a rare model but a good one.

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No life story has happy end.

.38 M&P Model of 1905, 4th change. Close serial numbers shipped in 1937. Ed.

PS: Model numbers assigned in 1957 and this would evolve into the Model 10 after a few engineering changes. It is built on the K frame and most likely has a square butt. "Fixed sights" is the correct terminology.

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No life story has happy end.

I know there is supposed to be an 800x800 pixel limit, but I have had no problems posting pictures 1000x1200 or slightly larger. Just add them as thumbnails and they will enlarge when "moused" over, just takes a few seconds.

Check whether there is a B in front of the serial number on the flat area on the barrel's underside (open the cylinder). If there is not, or an N, the gun left the factory nickeled, increasing the chance that the finish is original.

Thank you, everyone. That sure was fast.

Yes, there is a B under the barrel.

I show a number of M&Ps having close SNs shipping in both 1937 and 1938. This one could be from earlier or later. If there is a B, then it was originally blued, not nickel plated.

Most likely shipped in early 1937, maybe Jan or Feb.

Since this is not the original finish, I guess there would be no harm in having it refinished. Is that terribly expensive? The reason I ask is that there is a crack in the side plate and a crack that extends rearward from the screw at the very top of the side plate. If we replace the sideplate, and had the frame crack welded, the new finish might hide that. (Not for any dishonest reason. It was given to him by his uncle who recently passed away, and he has no intention of parting with it.)

I believe the crack you're describing is the side plate seam. It exists on every hand ejector.

Polishing prior to a nickle refinish makes the seam more pronounced.

Got pictures ?

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SWCA #2817

Refinishing could easily cost more than the gun is worth, and will not increase its value. Sideplates do not crack.

As said above, what you are calling a "crack" is not a crack, but is the side plate seam. The side plate is a separate part and the screws you see hold it onto the frame. I doubt it would be possible to crack a S&W frame of a 1937 revolver in the area you describe. A quality refinishing would be expensive and only logical if you are not concerned about the cost of restoring a family heirloom. Ed.

Finally got those pictures in.

Attached Images

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The finish looks good.

The stocks have been modified, but if the carving was done by the ancestor it just makes the gun more endearing to me.

A fantastic heirloom that you should enjoy shooting.

Appears to have led a tough life, judging by the condition of the grips (which appear to have been original), and some former owner plated it. A professional stripping of the existing plating followed by polishing and re-bluing or re-plating would set your friend back more than the gun is worth. Most would leave it alone for what it is.

Now that we know that the supposed cracks are just plating wear at the side plate seams and a plating gouge at the top screw, I've told my friend the same thing. I took it apart (as much as I had the nerve and tools to) and cleaned it up after firing a few rounds. Delightful. I'm thinking of getting round-to-square conversion grips for my Model 65 so it will feel like this.

One thing - when I was shooting, a couple times the trigger would become very hard to pull in double-action mode. No problems cocking for single-action, and it only happened when revolving in a live round. Could not repeat it with empty cases. Saw no internal problems when I cleaned it, but I'm no gunsmith.

Even though he's given me no pressure to return it, I'm anxious to get it back to him. If something were to happen to it, I cannot replace its sentimental value.

Stern wheeler:

Welcome to the forum! Now that you have solved your problem, stick around. This place is great. One of the finest places on the 'net. You can get quite an education here, and have fun doing it!

Best Regards. Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Its a complete waste of money to have the gun refinished. The nickel is in very good
condition, so leave it as is. I'd find a correct pair of grips that have not been mutilated.
They would make the gun look a whole lot nicer.

If you have not done so, remove the side plate. You'll likely find a lot of dirt and other
debris that may be causing the mechanical problems.

Mike Priwer

Thanks Mike. The refinishing was just an idea to hide a planned weld in a crack. Turns out there is no crack, just some bad spots in the finish. The gun isn't mine, but belongs to a truck driving friend of mine (who is also my boss) who is a lot newer to handguns than me. And I'm no expert. I think he'll like Gunnails suggestion that the carved grip with add a sentimental connection to the uncle that left him the gun. Strangely, one grip is original & one not. Unless S&W only stamped the serial number in one grip panel, anyway.

I would bet they are both original. They only marked the right hand stock. Either stamped, or written in pencil, or ink, they just marked the one.

Mike is correct about removing the sideplate, but if you are unfamiliar with the process, there are threads on the forum that will guide you to do it without damaging the plate or the fit. And with other help in cleaning and lubricating.

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

I think people must have re-nickeled all of them but a few. Saw a really nice antique top break today at my local pawn shop. . .re-nickeled including the hammer and trigger. There must have been a lot money made a century ago putting new nickel on guns.

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Dr. B

The serial number was stamped only on the right grip.

Thanks for the great info, everyone.

Tracy