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07-28-2016, 09:38 PM
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
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Smith & Wesson HE .32 caliber frame questions
I am looking at buying a .32 caliber Smith & Wesson HE that is the 5th type. As you can see, it has no grips. I'm wondering if any of you can confirm that this is an "I" frame.
Just to the left of the cylinder thumb latch is a shroud that covers the cylinder where it is wider than the frame. Is this piece bent or is that how it is supposed to look?
Lastly, do the missing screws have a particular name? I am not sure if these are universal or if the various screws have different names/sizes.
Many thanks,
wsjax4
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07-28-2016, 10:32 PM
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Your pictures indicate that you have a S&W HE in .32 Long S&W caliber.
This would be an I frame gun. The scres your missing are side plate screws . They are not all three the same. The forward most screw also holds the crane in place .
You are missing the front cylinder latch consisting of the plunger, spring, and cross pin.
The cylinder does not look like it matches the frame. There are 3 places where the serial number should be stamped. The frame at the bottom of the butt, the cylinder at the rear, and the flat on the bottom of the barrel just forward of the frame. Looks like you have some work ahead of you. Parts in these old critters are not just drop in. They generaly require fitting.
Also make sure there are no buldges in the 3&1/4 inch barrel
PS: The "shroud" as you termed it is as it should be - no problem there. Before I would buy it I would like to see the internal parts. You can spend a lot of money fixing what will only be a shooter when completed and fitted properly.
Last edited by mnrivrat; 07-28-2016 at 10:37 PM.
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07-28-2016, 10:51 PM
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You've answered all of my questions. Thank you very much!
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07-29-2016, 02:09 AM
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Welcome to the forum.
You're looking at a nice little project gun if you like projects.
You can tell if the main parts are all original because it should have the serial # in 6 locations:
NOTE: Observing serial #s for accuracy or even existence, especially on penciled stocks, requires magnification, bright light, and an attitude that it is there!
1. Gun butt - or forestrap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt
2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
4. Extractor star - backside
5. Cylinder - rear face
6. Right stock only - on back; stamped, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material.
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Jim
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07-29-2016, 04:59 AM
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Welcome to the Forum.
The cylinder is missing the extractor star and the inner rod and springs. The front screw has to be fitted, as it holds the yoke in place. I personally wouldn't pay more than $50 and that's a generous price.
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John 3:16
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07-29-2016, 09:04 AM
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Welcome.
I agree with Muley Gil and would only consider that a parts gun.
Stu
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07-29-2016, 09:10 AM
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SWCA Member Absent Comrade
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The top (large) side plate screw head appears to have been wrung off also. I think that will have to be drilled & tapped in order to remove it. If you intend to polish the pitting off the surfaces, I think you will lose most of the markings. This would be an ambitious referb project to say the least. Ditto on the generous at $50 comment.
Jeb
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07-29-2016, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnrivrat
. . . The cylinder does not look like it matches the frame . . .
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Welcome to the Forum. The cylinder, crane, and the extractor pin look way too smooth and rust free to be from the original revolver, but the serial numbers will tell the story. If you have any trouble seeing some numbers, also check the crane and frame when the cylinder is open for assembly code. Those numbers match the cylinder assembly to the frame and should match. They are different than the serial number.
I would say that you are already looking at someone's parts gun, and without taking the sideplate off, you cannot assess how many internal parts might be missing. You can, however, find most parts for this model without too much trouble. Putting this one back in service will bring you personal satisfaction, but will not likely return any profit if ever sold. There are many Model 1903 revolvers in great working order that can be bought for $150 with finishes better than that one, so an option is to buy one that all parts match and can be shot the day you buy it.
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Gary
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07-29-2016, 09:18 AM
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Unless you're looking for a project, I'd pass.
For the money you'd end up putting into it, you can buy a fully functional gun. .32 HEs are fairly common and generally inexpensive. I just don't think that gun is worth it.
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07-29-2016, 07:09 PM
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Wow, thanks very much to all of you for the response. I'm a C&R holder and I'm not looking to buy and then sell for a profit. I enjoy a project but after reading all of your responses it appears that this may be way more that I anticipated. I will keep searching. Thanks for welcoming me to the group!
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