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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 09-14-2016, 03:59 PM
delta-419 delta-419 is offline
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Red face Triple Lock Question ?

I have been searching for a center pin for my 5" Triple Lock project gun and have decided to have a mechanist make one for me as a copy from one of my working Smiths. The question is: were the New Century center pins heat treated. I know that the cylinder was not hardened until around 1922, excepting the wartime 1917s. TL hammers and triggers are case hardened. Need your advice!
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:25 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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I presume you mean a working TL. Because the TL ctr pin is unique. Frankly I don't know if it's heat treated or not.

So if I were making one, I might start with a later model pin and modify it.

Although the same OAL, the rear .687” length is .020” larger diameter than the rest of the pin. As you may know the TL extractor center pin is sprung to the front, in the opposite direction from any subsequent Hand Ejector models which are all sprung to the rear.

The later, and much easier obtainable, rear sprung center pin has a collar that must be moved about 5/32" forward. For our substitution scenario, simply turning off the collar in a lathe and replacing it with an 'C' clip in the new location will get you almost there. A .687” long bushing by .143” O.D. pressed on the rear end gets you a functioning ctr pin for the TL extractor. An ‘C’ clip, by the way, is the factory method used to retain original TL front sprung center pins in the extractor rod along with a collar between the E clip and the Spring.

TL extractor rod showing the integral collar, removable knob, and the ctr pin orientation. The tiny E clip on the center pin must be removed to install the spring. There's also a .100” wide spring retaining collar that goes between the spring and the C clip which is missing in this photo. The gun will function w/o the collar or washers can be substituted:

Photo by Steelslaver
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Last edited by Hondo44; 09-28-2016 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:38 PM
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Heat treating rods that small is a tricky deal.....

They will bow on both end to due north.

If I were going to make one for my self....I would just torch harden
the tip ends of the center pin, polish and draw back to a purty straw
color for a longer service life than just annealed tool steel.


.
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Old 09-14-2016, 04:41 PM
gmborkovic gmborkovic is online now
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Take a file to the original and see if it cuts it or glides across it.
I really dont know. Anew file usually runs about 60 on the Rockwell C scale.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:47 PM
delta-419 delta-419 is offline
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Talking Center Pin/Ejector Rod Assembly

Update: Could not find a center pin or ejector rod for the 5" 44 caliber Triple Lock project. After 7 years I gave up and removed the assembly from one of my working TLs and put it in the project gun. It works like a charm. I then removed it and took it to a local Pensacola machine shop and presented it to the shop owner. The shop is a subcontractor to the Navy and has all of the super type equipment. They also do gun parts. He said that he would study the assembly and work up a cost. He stated that the duplicate would be to the exact factory specs (even to the checkering on the ejector rod knob as represented by the piece provided. Now the waiting game!!! This will probably cost me my 1st born!
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Old 09-26-2016, 06:38 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Hi Jim,

Does your good TL extractor/cylinder assembly have the correct little cap for the ctr pin spring that rests against the 'C' clip spring retainer, for him to replicate?

Also, does your project TL yoke have the cyl hold open detent plunger and spring?

Plunger shown here in bottom of yoke and has a spring underneath it:

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Old 09-26-2016, 11:55 PM
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Red face Ejector Rod Assembly

The answer to both questions is yes, the knob has the beveled cap and center hole for the spring loaded lock, and the yoke has the hold open spring pin. My task when I get the new one is to find the right spring to make it work. The one in the working center pin looks a lot like the one in 2nd model.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:34 AM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta-419 View Post
The answer to both questions is yes, the knob has the beveled cap and center hole for the spring loaded lock, and the yoke has the hold open spring pin. My task when I get the new one is to find the right spring to make it work. The one in the working center pin looks a lot like the one in 2nd model.
I was referring to the little cap missing from between the C clip and left end of spring in this photo, not the knob:



Yes, same ctr pin spring as the 1917 and subsequent N frames.
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:55 PM
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Unhappy Knob

Hondo44, the little knob that you reference was not in the gun that is used as a guide.
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:05 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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That's common for it to be missing, and the reason I asked. I think I gave you the dimensions in my e-mail to you.

The gun will work with out it as you know from your good TL. But this may be an opportunity for your gun smith to make two of them; one for your good TL and one for the TL project. All three of my TLs have it so I know it's a factory part. With it in place, the ctr pin spring will have the proper tension.

The ctr pin spring cap dimensions: .100” thick x .195” diameter, slightly cupped .010" deep on the spring side for the end of the spring to nest in. A washer .100" by .195" will work as well.

I responded today to your last email about the single action issue you questioned.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 09-28-2016 at 05:39 PM.
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