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Old 01-11-2017, 05:34 PM
Jamesatrange Jamesatrange is offline
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Default Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?

I was at a LGS today and he had a pre 28 5 screw with serial matching barrel and cylinder. Has diamond target grips but they were not serialized to the gun but they were in very nice shape. Gun dates 1954 from my serial research. It has been re-blued at one time and still has wear. The cylinder seems to have some play. Some minor Pitting that is re-blued on the cylinder shield. Price is $525.00 what do you think? I like that it's old, 5 screw and is just a tank but it's not in as nice condition as I'd like but it may be priced accordingly. Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:36 PM
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Yes.

They started making The Highway Patrolman in the summer of 1954.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:41 PM
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I am real fond of pre 1957, 5 screw N frames! That being said, I would not fork out money for a pitted, reblued, 28 with play in the cylinder. I would rather have a better better gun at not much more money. There are lots of 28-2s available for sale that will provide a lot of shooting pleasure. But, that's just me and my opinion. :-)
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:45 PM
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You should buy it ...I've seen it . and the grips are worth 2 bills of the price.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:55 PM
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You had me up until re-blued and play in the cyl. And I really like early Mod-28s. $525 is a bit of money. If your not happy with it, walk away.
I bought a S number last week at a club meeting for $450. Tight as a tick and lots of finish. It had Target grips. The really LNIB examples will continue to hold their sell price. Best
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:00 PM
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Does the 5 screw add much of a premium? I always seem to get excited when I see a 5 screw only because I never seem to find any locally. I don't know if there is any real reason for the extra screws but I seem to think it makes the gun more of a draw.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:20 PM
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Yes, 5 screws typically draw more for collectible guns. Keep in mind that this gun is strictly a shooter since it has already been refinished. Before you buy, ask yourself if you would pay $525 for a modern .357 magnum because the 5 screws don't make it shoot any better. That being said, IMO, almost any decent N frame is worth $500. Add to that weatherby's comment about the target grip's value.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:34 PM
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If you're inclined to buy it for the target stocks, OK. But before you do it make darn sure they're mid-1950s vintage, i.e. not speed loader cut out. The condition needs to be very high also.

FYI: I've never seen Target stocks numbered to a gun in person.

Good luck.
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:39 PM
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A few did.
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Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?-pre19-47-jpg_thumbnail1-jpg   Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?-pre19-99-jpg_thumbnail1-jpg  
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:49 PM
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For yours, the non-relieved target stocks would be period-correct. And they are indeed substantially more valuable and desirable than the later relieved target grips (PS: the football-shaped relief on the left panel of later grips has nothing to do with using speed loaders).

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Old 01-11-2017, 06:59 PM
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I have a couple of pre-28's that have letters to the summer of 1954. It has to be something less than ~S115xxx.

The stocks are worth a lot. The serial number with its parts are easily worth the rest to me.

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Old 01-11-2017, 07:03 PM
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Educate me. Why did they change to the relief cut. I dont know. Best
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:07 PM
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Borderline for me. Loose cylinder is scary. Best two out of three coin toss or three out of five.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:16 PM
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I was a buyer up until the re-blue and cylinder play
issue came up as well. But then it would have probably
been marked for more without these issues and number
matching stocks.
If you want a nice old shooter that's not a bad price
around here for an N-frame. I don't think you'd have much
trouble finding a gunsmith who could tighten it up for you.
But that's also gonna cost you.
Keep looking and that all correct one will show up when
you least expect it.


Chuck
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:18 PM
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They changed to the relief cutout because the extractor star and shell casings were damaging the wood of the grip when pushed out without care.

The football cutout relief gave the room necessary for clearance.

Then next came the removal of the football relief for speed loader clearance.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:25 PM
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Showing my ignorance here.....
Is it a dash 1? If so, that changes things I think.
Most likely not. I have no idea when the elusive -1 would have come out.
I suppose if it was in fact a -1, Paul would be the OP for this thread.

Good luck with your decision.
Bob
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:29 PM
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well why not offer less money and point out the things u mentioned?...might get a good gun cheap and make a good shooter out of it...
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEMULE View Post
Showing my ignorance here.....
Is it a dash 1? If so, that changes things I think.
Most likely not. I have no idea when the elusive -1 would have come out.
I suppose if it was in fact a -1, Paul would be the OP for this thread.

Good luck with your decision.
Bob
Since it's a 5 screw, it's not model marked, so there wouldn't be any dash number. Model marking started in 1957/8.

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Old 01-11-2017, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19leben View Post
Since it's a 5 screw, it's not model marked, so there wouldn't be any dash number. Model marking started in 1957/8.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Duh....... what was I thinking?
Thanks 19leben. My mistake.
Bob
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:03 PM
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There may be some -1s out there but so far as I can recall, there has only been one show up here on the forum. I would think there are more than one, but who knows, there certainly are not very many.
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesatrange View Post
... Has diamond target grips but they were not serialized to the gun but they were in very nice shape. ... It has been re-blued at one time and still has wear. The cylinder seems to have some play. Some minor Pitting that is re-blued on the cylinder shield. Price is $525.00 what do you think? ...
I think some responders are overreacting to "some play". It may require a very minor fix so the OP may want a gunsmith to examine it.

It would be nice to know:
... the barrel length
... if the stocks are non-relieved targets.

If my LGS had it, I would be intrigued. See if they offer any kind of guarantee that it is a good shooter with no mechanical issues. It can't hurt to ask. Also, if you feel the need to take it to a 'smith, negotiate a reduced price to cover that expense.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:03 PM
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Play could mean rotary play or longitudinal play. The latter can easily be fixed by installing a special shim. Rotary play (i.e., the cylinder does not lock up tightly when cocked) is a little more difficult to correct.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:10 PM
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A pre-model 28 is going to have some wear it was a user at all and most of them were users. That was what they were developed for. Are you sure about the re-blue? I have a couple of guns that I would have sworn were not re done and they were and vice versa. If it was good it shouldn't be a deal breaker.
I am more of an accumulator of used iron than I am a fancier of revolvers still covered with the original oil from the factory. Can't afford them, couldn't keep them.
From a written description the phrase "play in the cylinder" means different things to different people. Usually that can be taken care of fairly easily.
If you plan to use the gun, I would offer 450 and be prepared to go up to 525 in increments. If he can't make the deal let him be the one to stop the dealing.
If you want the gun, walk in and drop the money on the table and walk out with it and be proud you got it.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:26 PM
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While I appreciate those who tout the potential value of the yet-unknown stocks, you have to put something back on the gun to replace those valuable stocks. There's a cost. Not everyone has a drawer of stocks.

I heartily agree with those who've offered: "walk away." From the OP's description there are better buys for a wee bit more.

My two bits,

Bob
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
I think some responders are overreacting to "some play". It may require a very minor fix so the OP may want a gunsmith to examine it.

It would be nice to know:
... the barrel length
... if the stocks are non-relieved targets.

If my LGS had it, I would be intrigued. See if they offer any kind of guarantee that it is a good shooter with no mechanical issues. It can't hurt to ask. Also, if you feel the need to take it to a 'smith, negotiate a reduced price to cover that expense.
The stocks are football diamond targets in great shape.
The barrel length is 4"
The serial is 113,xxx
The lockup I found acceptable but may not have checked it as well as the OP
I'd have bought it if able to... Hence my get it to him.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:25 PM
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Thanks everyone. I will have to decide. I'm not starving for an N frame 357 as I have others I just don't see 5 screw older guns locally often at a price I don't mind shooting it at... I know it's refinished because the pitting is filled in with the bluing. I think the pitting bothers me more then anything because I cannot fix that. Mechanical stuff I can fix or have fixed. Holding a classic just feels good though.
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weatherby View Post
The stocks are football diamond targets in great shape.
The barrel length is 4"
The serial is 113,xxx
The lockup I found acceptable but may not have checked it as well as the OP.
Wow,
That number is close to July, 1954.

Mine:


Please tell me first of an early pre-28. I don't need any pictures.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:53 AM
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I wouldn't worry much about a little end shake. But, the blued pits would cause me to think of it as only a shooter or project gun with less value.

I paid $550 a while back for a well used 5 screw HP with a holster. Says LEO carry gun all over it and holster. No blue on extractor rod, blue gone on recoil shield where cases had moved against it, cylinder and muzzle wear and Goodyear grips. Yes, I paid a little much. . Not many old N frames you can walk out the door with for less, no shipping or FFL fee. Trading stock or it can hang in my safe for a rainy day. I have 4 28-2s. One very nice 4" with all target stuff, a with minor finish issues that will end up being 45s. I have a hard time saying no to a N frame that isn't much over $500, But the pits would make me say no for even $500
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:24 AM
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You didn't mention the timing or checking for push off. Is the cylinder play in the lock-up or are you referring to side to side movement in the yoke? Any end shake? If there are serious problems, walk away. The cost of the fixes could take away the value. I bought a high condition shooter grade 1954 HP (4") last year for $650.00. I thought it was a fair price for a gun with zero problems and all matching numbers. No target stocks, though. The model is not common, but certainly isn't rare. I'd be inclined to keep looking. Good luck.

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Old 01-12-2017, 11:48 AM
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The lock up seemed okay for side to side and on the extractor pin lock for the age of the gun and the timing seemed okay. I was referring to end shake. I noticed that the yoke seemed solid but that the end of the cylinder seemed like it could be moved side to side more than on any revolver I own. When I visually checked the barrel to cylinder chamber gap it was noticeably different on different holes or if I moved it which is what made me look more. So I thought there may be wear inside the cylinder where is revolves on the yoke. I don't have lots of past experience with end shake and only knew it by reading until I questioned this gun. It wasn't a gun I was longing or looking for as I have a nice 28-2 that is also redone but in a model 27 shiny finish but tight like a drum and near perfect. I just try to jump on stuff I don't see locally that I can walk out the store with without all the state to state transfer fees and dealings etc... Plus the grips were nice and I was thinking they added value and I was getting the gun for less but if I have to sink money into it...

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Old 01-12-2017, 02:09 PM
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If the cylinder tilts on the yoke tube, it may well have issues with the yoke tube itself. I got a older M&P 38 that had been refinished and had some problems cheap. Its cylinder did this and upon inspection of the yoke tube I found that it had been sanded down or something by a previous owner. I had a spare yoke that fit the gun and everything functions and operates fine with it. Looks odd because replacement yoke has little bluing but rest of gun is reblued. Not a big deal to me as I don't have much in it. Spare 38 special for stashing in the boat or a truck. Funny thing is had really nice set of grips.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:28 AM
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BUY IT. Work with the shop to get a better deal if possible.
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesatrange View Post
I was referring to end shake. I noticed that the yoke seemed solid but that the end of the cylinder seemed like it could be moved side to side more than on any revolver I own.
It could be a couple of minor things. It's not a big deal at all. Here is my Model 27 frame after 20 minutes of disassembly:


Is the end of the cylinder shake the same in the locked position as it does unlocked (i.e., the cylinder is out for loading)? Locked in situations are harder to solve than unlocked.

**I am not a gunsmith**
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Old 01-14-2017, 01:01 AM
Jamesatrange Jamesatrange is offline
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It's where the cylinder slips and rotates on the yoke tube or it may be called the crane. It seems that eIther that tube or the internal of the cylinder are worn and it causes some play that seems to allow the front of the cylinder to go side to side more than normal like the two pieces don't fit really tight. The tube may officially be called the crane. It's the tube on the yoke that the extractor goes through and the cylinder revolves on. Like steelslaver described. The yoke is numbered to the gun so I don't want to replace it.

Last edited by Jamesatrange; 01-14-2017 at 01:03 AM.
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  #35  
Old 01-14-2017, 03:01 PM
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You should buy it ...I've seen it . and the grips are worth 2 bills of the price.
I took my own advice on it today.
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Old 01-14-2017, 03:58 PM
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Ah, Jeez, Paul! You've gotta quit making those snap decisions...

Congrats!
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:30 PM
Jamesatrange Jamesatrange is offline
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Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?  
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Weatherby. The suspense to decide pushed you to the counter to buy.. Lol Let us know how it works out if you shoot it. I looked it over again yesterday but just wasn't able to make the leap. The front sight had a white insert added and my fear of the play and the barrel to cylinder gap changing and my analness to get it fixed just made me hesitate again. The gun is super cool to me but I think I had too many reservations. Now you can let me shoot it.. Lol
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:35 PM
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Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?  
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Nice snag Paul.......job well done
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:40 PM
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Now you can let me shoot it.. Lol
Now that's clever enabling LOL! Get your buddy to buy so you can shoot it. Gotta remember that one!
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:40 PM
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I liked the white insert my eyes aren't what they used to be.
It has a white outline rear as well.
I have to work on getting it paid for then I'd love to go shoot with you.
We should also make a road trip to some other stores you'd like.
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:42 PM
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Now that's clever enabling LOL! Get your buddy to buy so you can shoot it. Gotta remember that one!
Didn't work for me....Did it
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Old 01-14-2017, 06:57 PM
Jamesatrange Jamesatrange is offline
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Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy? Pre 28 5 screw, should I buy?  
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I like colored ramp and white outline too. I think if I didn't have the sweet 28-2 I may have leaped. Plus hate to admit this on this forum, but I put the Ruger GP100 in 22lr he had on payaway instead. Couldn't afford both so Ruger won. Lol.
Gunshop tour sounds fun. So you'll get to try the gp100.
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  #43  
Old 01-14-2017, 10:37 PM
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I have sold a few Highway Patrolman revolvers that were not reblued for prices very close to that. They were not mint, but 85% or better. I would pass. Shotgunner
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