Serial number is 202XXX
Most markings on the gun are illegible, it's in bad shape, but was my grandfathers so I'll never sell it anyway.
38 special
Hand ejector
No model info behind yoke
Fixed sites
Barrel length 4"

See 5 screws looks very similar to the first pic for screws in the HowTo ID thread. Will get some pics soon.

Any help is appreciated. I am also interested in replacement parts, ejector spring, center rod, etc... If at all possible.

Welcome to the Forum. With that serial number, it would be a 38 Hand Ejector, 3rd Change that would have shipped in 1913. There were around 100,000 3rd Models made. We all like pictures, so please do add some images of your revolver. Parts for these are often found on ebay, or gunpartscorp.com.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Welcome to the forum.

As Gary said, pictures would be helpful. Make sure that it says .38 special and not .38 S&W as they are not the same. If you have photos in your computer it is fairly easy to upload them to a post using the MANAGE ATTACHMENTS button below any post. Many were made but only one was owned by your grandfather.

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James Redfield
LM #497

It's almost impossible to read what's on the side of the barrel. It really could be either.

The bottom screw is buggered up because it has seized and someone tried to get it out. Wound up scratching it up. It doesn't appear to be budging any time soon.

Uploaded a few pics.

Attached Images

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soak it till it cries out to stop.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Some guns need to be retired to an honored place in the home. Perhaps a display case with pictures of your grandfather? Then there are no questions about what cartridge to use, safety concerns, etc.

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You're shy a few manners.

Welcome to the Forum.

If it were mine, I would place it in a large sealed container, cover it with automatic transmission fluid and let it set for about a week or two.

You need to use gunsmithing screw drivers with hollow ground blades.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I'd agree SN 202xxx probably left the factory sometime in 1913. At that time, S&W would have called it a Model of 1902. A beater for sure, and it's not a viable candidate for restoration. I don't think I have ever seen grips worn so smooth. It shouldn't be too difficult to find some new sideplate screws to replace the missing one and the damaged one (assuming it can be removed). Check eBay. You might also see if you can find a pair of similar K-frame checkered round butt wood grips in better condition while you are there, but I wouldn't get my hopes up as they aren't seen too often. And after that, I would retire it to memento duty.

Some good penetrating oil might be a less messy first step. Shouldn't take more than overnight to soak in.

+1 on the screwdrivers. You could get new screws, but they definitely wouldn't match this gun.

They would if you sanded off the bluing on the screw heads and let them rust a little.

It's definitely not going to be shot again, but would like it to function if possible. I will get a good set of actual gunsmithing drivers and soak the screw to see if it will come out, but I won't waste alot of time on it.

I was really just more curious about the age, it definitely wasn't kept up very well, but I didn't expect it to be valuable. It was a service pistol when my grandad was a prison guard at Parchman in MS.

Thanks for the info and all the suggestions, appreciate the help!

Welcome to the forum from Wyoming.

Gad, what an honor to own your Grandfather's century-old revolver.

Okay, find a couple of screws and make them match the gun, but, oh, no, don't replace those stocks. Your Grandpa held them and began the process to make them look as they do. Replacements might look better, but they would completely miss the point of you even having this gun.

My two bits.

Bob

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Wrangler of stray Chiefs
Bob

"It's definitely not going to be shot again..."

Why? As long as you use the proper ammo-148 wadcutters or 158 standard velocity lead and there is no damage to the gun, you won't hurt it and it won't hurt you.

Two of my favorite shooting S&Ws are a .32-20 that shipped in 1906 and a .44 Special that shipped in 1910.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I can't tell if this is 38 special or 38 s&w. If there's a chance they could be mixed up I'd rather not have an incident. If there is a way to tell for sure outside of the stamp, which is illegible, then I may consider it. Once I get the cylinder locking properly.

Smith & Wesson didn't chamber the Military & Police revolver in .38 S&W until they received the British military order during WW II. Generally, a .38 S&W cartridge won't fit in a .38 special chamber, due to a slightly larger diameter, and if it did, it is a lower pressure cartridge anyway.

Now, some of the early .38 Long Colt revolvers have cylinders that are bored through and you can chamber a .357 round. THAT'S a combination you don't want to fire!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Easy to determine .38 special vs .38 S&W. The .38 special cartridge is a few 1/1000's smaller in diameter and slightly longer than the .38 S&W. Therefore the special cartridge will seem loose in a charge hole and will not seat due to length. Conversely , the S&W cartridge will be too "fat" for the special charge holes.

I am in the "don't replace the grips" camp. The steel and wood are of equal wear.

Where has that revolver been the last bunch of decades? Damp basement perhaps? And what happened to the cylinder latch? The gouging of the side plate is unfortunate.

If it were my revolver my goal would be to shoot it. Good luck.

OK since there isn't a lot of risk I will attempt to shoot some was cutters through it when it's ready.

The latch seems OK, there is only minor play in cylinder rotation when. It is closed. The yoke is extremely difficult to move and when the cylinder is seated it doesn't appear as though the center pin is engaging the bolt and allowing to pull the trigger.

I have the "missing" screw, I just don't have it in the gun. I like the grips as is,will not replace those. New grips just wouldn't look good on this old gun.

The cylinder release latch has been replaced with what appears to be a square nut.

Go to post # 14 in this thread to see what the correct latch looks like:

2 inch, Pre-war M&P observation


I kinda like the field repair that was done to yours though.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

That is a flat latch version I'm not familiar with.
Mark

By all means, it's your business what you do with it. I don't mean to always sound like such a naysayer, but I tend to look at things from a practical point of view.

No disrespect intended to you or your relatives, but it certainly looks to me like it's been worked on by someone who didn't have much skill or access to proper tools and parts. Who knows what has been done to it internally? Getting it in safe shooting condition may cost more than the price of a good used .38 Special Model 10, especially if you count your time as having any value.

Of course it has sentimental value to you, and you can't put a price on that. I have an old revolver that belonged to my Great Grandfather. It definitely is a wall hanger. I enjoy getting it out and looking at it occasionally. But cost would be prohibitive to put it in shooting condition.

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You're shy a few manners.

Any opinion is welcome as long as it's given in good spirits, so no offense is taken. Yes someone who definitely had limited experience got their hands on it. I don't like it, but nothing to be done about it now. I don't think it'll take alot, but won't spend much especially in its condition, but gonna try a few things. My time is worth something for sure, but this is a hobby for me, it's worth the time investment.

I know I can get a good model 10 for around 250-300 if I want one. In the end if I have a hankering to shoot a wheel gun I have my 686 Plus to have some fun with. 😁


Thanks for all the input! It's all appreciated

I would clean it put it back together and shoot it with the right ammo. Eye and ear protection as well as gloves for the first few cylinders.

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! You might want to soak that for a few days in 50/50 auto trans fluid and acetone. That might loosen up the cylinder and the screws. I would loosen the lower forward screw to see if it is binding the yoke. Years and years of varnish and rust are probably on the center pin and in the action. It needs to be completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned with dental picks, brass brushes or even an ultrasonic cleaner...some gunsmiths have them. You can find the thumbpiece and nut on ebay. One for a WWII Victory will work although it might not be the same as original. Over the years, they were taken through several changes to the waist and sides. Nice project gun. Good luck!

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

If you cannot get the side plate off , a thorough flush in a parts cleaner followed by several days soaking in a bath of Marvel Mystery Oil should get the parts moving. ( I give credit to whomever it was that posted that advice sometime ago .. can't remember source.) Once the parts are moving , check for lock-up , timing , resistance to push-off - all the usual stuff. If mechanical function seems copacetic , off to the range!

Mild loads are a good idea , and the advice of really good eye protection and gloves for the first time around.

Sounds like fun to me.

Edit/addendum : I had not read the post from Wiregrass when I wrote mine. A case of simultaneous posting.

"You can find the thumbpiece and nut on ebay."

I'm guessing that the threads on the bolt have been buggered up by installing that square nut.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

If so, he can buy a new bolt on eBay as well.

Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629