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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 03-18-2017, 01:35 AM
AaronE AaronE is offline
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Default 38/44 Heavy Duty - Post War

Found in a pawn shop, in need of a barrel. It appears that someone desperately needed a 3.5' bbl...and had a 4". Or maybe managed to prang the muzzle somehow.

So, does anyone have or have a line on a replacement 4" bbl? I'll need the shank length if so.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:45 AM
rgm36 rgm36 is offline
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I think it's cool just as it is!

Changing a barrel is a LOT more complicated than you might think. It will require machining the barrel flange to fit at 12:00 - then the forcing cone to cylinder spacing will be affected and need addressing.

I just did my .44 2nd model and it was MUCH more involved than I had understood. Probably would not have changed the barrel if I had known in advance what a pain it would be.

You might want to keep it the way it is and appreciate it as a custom gun - or you could always sell it to me
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:02 AM
Kansasgunner Kansasgunner is offline
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If it shoots well I'd probably leave the old warrior as is and upgrade the stocks. Neat gun!
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:03 AM
lebomm lebomm is offline
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I'm with rgm36 - keep it as is and shoot it 'til you get tired of it. Replacing the cut bbl won't return the originality, and unless the bbl is bent, it will likely shoot just fine.

Larry
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:08 AM
Lee's Landing Billy Lee's Landing Billy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgm36 View Post
I think it's cool just as it is!

Changing a barrel is a LOT more complicated than you might think. It will require machining the barrel flange to fit at 12:00 - then the forcing cone to cylinder spacing will be affected and need addressing.

I just did my .44 2nd model and it was MUCH more involved than I had understood. Probably would not have changed the barrel if I had known in advance what a pain it would be.

You might want to keep it the way it is and appreciate it as a custom gun - or you could always sell it to me
Or me!!!! I'm with these men....shoot it!
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:09 PM
AaronE AaronE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgm36 View Post
I think it's cool just as it is!

Changing a barrel is a LOT more complicated than you might think. It will require machining the barrel flange to fit at 12:00 - then the forcing cone to cylinder spacing will be affected and need addressing.

I just did my .44 2nd model and it was MUCH more involved than I had understood. Probably would not have changed the barrel if I had known in advance what a pain it would be.

You might want to keep it the way it is and appreciate it as a custom gun - or you could always sell it to me
Well as a gunsmith, I figure I have it handled, I just changed a barrel on a 1917, reactivated a Victory Model that had been plugged, drilled and the cylinder blocked by blank adapters. Also changed 3 Rugers barrels and a Colt New Service caliber change.

So, All I really need are the parts. Have lathe, taps/dies, Facing cutters and a whole host of other STUFF. And I do hot bluing...

Grumpy's Gun Repair (warning, still under construction)
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Old 03-18-2017, 02:23 PM
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If you find a replacement I'll take that shorty off your hands!
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Old 03-18-2017, 02:39 PM
rgm36 rgm36 is offline
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You're right, as a gunsmith you have it covered.

I guess I should have asked if you were capable - YOU ARE!

Show us the gun when finished.

Best wishes - rgm36

P.S. - you could always go shorter yet!!!! Just a thought.
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Old 03-18-2017, 04:44 PM
delta-419 delta-419 is offline
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Default 4" Post War 38/44 Barrel

I have a 4" post war 38/44 barrel, stem (shoulder to throat) measures 2.97", provided I measured it right. Photos if interested.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delta-419 View Post
I have a 4" post war 38/44 barrel, stem (shoulder to throat) measures 2.97", provided I measured it right. Photos if interested.
I'd be interested please.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:12 PM
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Well, After a long wait for various things...it has a new barrel, new cylinder (I found a crack when I dye penetrant tested it, in the bottom of a locking notch.)the same ugly grips and a fine rust blue job by a friend of mine who is also on the Forums.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:45 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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Looks good. Of course, iffn' it was now a .44 or a .45, it would be even better.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:55 PM
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Looks good. Of course, iffn' it was now a .44 or a .45, it would be even better.
Yeah yeah yeah...
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:31 PM
rgm36 rgm36 is offline
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Nice Job!

It does indeed look MUCH nicer with a good barrel.

I have two 5" Heavy Duty's - now I'm thinkin I hafta have a 4
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:46 PM
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I have told the story before but I'll repeat it. About 15 years ago I saw a 1942 Victory Model in 38 Special in a pawn shop tagged at $100. Seemed like a good deal...until I looked at it. The barrel was bulged. The shop owner admitted it was damaged (after I commented on it) and asked me to make an offer if I was interested. Before giving it enough thought I blurted out $60 and he said "Sold!" Should have said $40.

I found a commercial 5" barrel on ebay and bagged it for the starting price of $5. The serial is from around 1939 so not far off from my VM. I asked a couple of gunsmiths and the estimates were around $150 to do the swap. I didn't want to have that much invested in the gun so I decided to do it myself.

I stripped the revolver and put the frame/barrel in a pan of penetrating oil for 24 hours. I have a large vise mounted to my workbench in the garage and I put to thin pieces of wood in the jaws and tightened it down on the barrel. Drove out the barrel pin with ease. Came right out. Then I put a hammer handle through the cylinder window, keeping as close to the barrel as possible to reduce the risk of twisting the frame. The pinned barrels were not screwed in as tightly as they are now and the oil bath likely helped loosen it up. Anyway, the frame turned off the barrel easily with very little pressure required. I was lucky in that the replacement screwed in and snugged with the front sight right at 12 o'clock. B/C measured at .004". No fitting was needed.

The only problem was getting the barrel pin back in. You have to get all those holes lined up perfectly and I fought it for 30 minutes before I finally tapped it in. Total time for the swap was 35 minutes. Everything other than the pin took 5 minutes.

It shoots fine. No troubles have arisen even after firing 500 rounds of Remington +P and 600 rounds of my own +P+ through it.

Here's my $65 Victory Model.

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