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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 03-19-2017, 12:27 AM
RILEY31 RILEY31 is offline
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Default Victory Model

This is the first Victory Model I have ever owned. It has all matching numbers but it has an import mark VEGA SAC CA. and as clean as it is I would think it is a rebuild.I have tried to take pics of the other markings.Maybe someone here can tell me about it any information would be appreciated.Thanks!
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:40 AM
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Don't think it is a rebuild. I think those are markings that show it was released from military stores.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:54 AM
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I agree with Muley Gil. This BSR seems to be in its original configuration. The import stamps would be related to its repatriation from the UK, apparently by a company in Sacramento.

Nice old revolver.
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Old 03-19-2017, 02:08 AM
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It is not a "rebuild", but it has been refurbished, including refinished, at the Lithgow Small Arms Factory in New South Wales, Australia, in 1955. The Lithgow FTR (Factory Thorough Repair) was pretty minimalist and left things like hammer and trigger original, and stampings sharp, so is frequently taken for original. But it is documented on the right frame. MA = Munitions Australia. D^D is an Australian military property mark. The symbols below the FTR I can't interpret right now.

Most of the Australian BSR's were imported after the GCA of 1968 by VEGA of Sacramento and therefore had to be marked with the importer stamp. The cylinder should still be in the original .38 S&W caliber, not bored out for .38 Special like happened to a lot of British-surplused BSR's.

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Old 03-19-2017, 03:22 AM
Niner19 Niner19 is offline
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Very nice British Service Revolver Victory. I love the Australian marks. I have a Webley Mk. VI with similar Australian markings. I also have a BSR with Austrian police markings. These pistols got around. Thanks for posting.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:54 AM
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Absalom
I could not make out the FTR before, but thanks for pointing it out. Now that I know it's there, I can read it.

That also explains the minimal but real gaps in the sideplate fit. I wondered about those at the time I first looked. And it is why I wrote "original configuration" (referring to the 5" barrel and the .38/200 chamber). I wasn't confident that it hadn't been altered at all (refinished, for example). There was the small side plate gap and the partially buffed out monogram. Both of those made me unsure. Appreciate your sharp eye!
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:22 AM
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I just aquired that exact same pistol, Jan 1, 2017 at auction this year. Snagged it for 310.00!
Check back at my post on my pistol!
Congrats to you!
I think the other 400 guys didnt like the IMPORT STAMP, so passed it off!
Come find out on this forum, she wouldn't have come home without it!
38 S&W is so fun to shoot!
Enjoy!

Sent from my SM-J100VPP using Tapatalk
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:02 AM
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Nice Victory. Enjoy.
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP@AK View Post
.... There was the small side plate gap and the partially buffed out monogram....
The "buffed out" monogram is actually owed to the lighting in the OP's photo.

One of the things that always amazes me about the Lithgow parkerizing refinish is how crisp the factory stampings come through. They apparently didn't buff at all and used a very thin coating. See the enlargement of the OP's photo and a somewhat better one of my Australian pre-Victory below.

I think that (and the original hammer, trigger, and ejector rod) is why these initially pass a lot of "refinish or not" inspections.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absalom View Post
The "buffed out" monogram is actually owed to the lighting in the OP's photo.

One of the things that always amazes me about the Lithgow parkerizing refinish is how crisp the factory stampings come through. They apparently didn't buff at all and used a very thin coating. See the enlargement of the OP's photo and a somewhat better one of my Australian pre-Victory below.

I think that (and the original hammer, trigger, and ejector rod) is why these initially pass a lot of "refinish or not" inspections.
My guess is that the Aussies did not perform any pre-finish metal prep other than a thorough cleaning, probably using solvent, before applying the phosphate. You can do the same for bluing, assuming the existing finish is not corroded, just worn. I have re-blued numerous guns right over the old blue, just by first cleaning the metal surface thoroughly with MEK to remove any dirt and grease.
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:37 PM
RILEY31 RILEY31 is offline
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Ihave3horses I read your old post a lot of good info there.Thanks to everyone for your help
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