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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 03-23-2017, 10:03 PM
mesome mesome is offline
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If I am rebuilding a S&W M&P Target 38 special 1919 , how much is affect the value if I do not use the exact vintage parts internaly like rebound bar and cylinder release bar?
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:10 PM
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Depends on what you mean by "exact vintage" parts. Many K frame S&W internal parts will interchange just fine and will not harm the value, by themselves, and would be difficult to tell they did not come with the gun when new. If you had sent the gun back to the factory , back in it's day, for repairs, you would have received parts that were probably currently made when the gun was received, without hurting it's value. Ed.
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:13 PM
mesome mesome is offline
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Ok thanks I did use a newer rebound bar and filed the side pin down so it would work in this pistol. I could not punch or pull the pin out. The pistol works well. The single action mode thetrigger is a hair trigger although. I have sent replaced the rebound bar spring with factory spring. Still may need to replace it with a stronger spring in the future. Got to check trigger pull weights.

Last edited by mesome; 03-30-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesome View Post
The single action mode th etrigger is a hair trigger although. Not sure that is right or not
Probably not right. Be careful with it until you get a competent gunsmith to look at it.

Well, be careful after that, too ...
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:50 AM
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Sounds like accident waiting to happen! There is a difference between the exact vintage parts and the wrong parts. It sounds like you do not have the correct part and I would not use the revolver until properly repaired.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:56 PM
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I will start with "Welcome to the forum." You have landed at a very good place to seek advice.
With respect to your question, "Exact vintage" parts are not necessary, but "correct properly fitting" parts are. Please do not fudge replacement parts in a firearm. There is enough margin for human error with a properly maintained piece - don't add to that by making the firearm questionable.

Last edited by JH1951; 03-24-2017 at 01:00 PM. Reason: add text
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:58 PM
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Most of the internal parts of Smiths are not numbered to the gun and if changed out for another part no-one could tell. BUT the correct parts need to be used and installed CORECTLY. S&W changed some of their internal parts out during the years. Some of them will work with others but some are an accident waiting to happen. If you are not 100% sure of the parts please ask for help from a gunsmith or someone who has the same knowledge.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:16 PM
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Hair trigger or smooth trigger?

I like all my triggers on my revolvers to be exactly the same feel or as close as I can get them. This way in any caliber with the triggers being close I can be more accurate with any revolver.
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:36 PM
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One thing on the trigger. Does it have a stock trigger return spring? A cut down spring or a real light one will effect the single action trigger pull.
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:35 PM
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I ordered a S&W factory rebound spring and will replace the one in it now. I thought about the light single action trigger and a weak spring makes sense. I wil have it soon so I will see how it changes the action. I have the hammer spring at max now. Once this is done the pistol is complete. As far as finding a gunsmith to rebuild the gun there seems to be a lack of gunsmiths that will work on revolvers in my area. I feel sure my skills will be adequate. Thanks fo rthe concerns and feedback.
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:16 PM
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I ordered a factory K frame rebound spring. I replaced the spring and made sure all was lubed using that Lucas gun oil. The single action now seems to be at 2 pounds now. Will have to borrow a trigger pull scale and make sure. Smooth double action. I feel all is good now.
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Old 04-13-2017, 11:06 PM
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Ok it did increase the sa trigger pull. The trigger returns smooth and properly, DA did not increase as much as I can tell. The bb is between the spring and the inside end of the rebound bar. It has been smoothed and lubed. The trigger action is smooth and sweet. Sounds sweet too. If you understood the rebound bar purpose. I had to replace the rebound bar it was missing as well as other parts when I got this 1905 4th change S&W 38 special 6 inch barrel target M&P. It was missing the main spring, the rebound bar and spring, grip screw, the cylinder release bar and thumb piece and crown nut. All look vintage and the gun functions well. I got rebound bar spring replaced but the SA was still hair trigger that's why insteed of replacing the spring with a heaver spring but made the spring shorter by the introduction of the BB. It does not hinder the action one bit. I just wanted to see if there was issues I was not thinking of.
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Old 04-14-2017, 10:57 AM
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The BB is an old trick I first saw in the 70s. It should not cause a problem.

You need to check for pushoff-
With an EMPTY, UNLOADED gun, cock the hammer. Push firmly on the rear of the hammer with 8-10 lbs of force. If it falls, you need a hammer or a trigger or both.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:47 PM
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Default Final project images

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