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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 03-26-2017, 01:28 AM
Petemeraz Petemeraz is offline
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Default MY new Model 1917 .45 acp

New to the forum just purchased my first s&w. Model 1917 has been reparkerized prior to my purchase. I got it off of GunBroker
My question is this. My cylinder ejector rod is wobbly how can I fix this. Also can some of you gentlemen steer me to the best gunsmith to check her out and possibly slick it up some.
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Pete meraz

P.s. I live in west texas
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Old 03-26-2017, 01:56 AM
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Have you tried tightening the extractor rod? It's threaded. I wouldn't worry too much about slicking it up. You might want to disassemble everything and give it a good solvent bath, followed by lubrication, prior to attempting anything like that.
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:40 AM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Do you mean when the rod is tight and you spin the cyl, the rod wobbles?

If so, it's bent.
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:15 AM
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If the rod is tight (right hand threads on these older ones) and it wobbles, remove by placing fired cases in at least 3 chambers and then clamp the end of the rod in a vice with jaws padded by Thick leather and turn cylinder till loose. Then remove from vise and finish by hand. Remember how the spring, rod collar etc assemble. Lay the rod on a piece of glass with the knob over the edge. Rolling it will show you where it is bent. There are a couple ways to straighten it. One is to use a drill chuck, but do not but it on threads turn and press by hand until it does not wobble when it turns in drill. Another is fold some brass sheet to make angles. Place these over vise jaws. Place rod in vise, all but the head and clamp bend straight. This will help, but, the bend might spring back a bit. Do the vise thing again but, place a narrow thing piece of brass on the bow so that when you tighten the jaws it forces the bend a little bit the other way. A little time and effort will get it. Check the center rod to and use similar methods on it if needed.

There is a sticky around here on how to check function. I doubt it need slicked up much when clean. Looks well used and probably slicked itself up as well as being made during at time when the guys who putt them together were real craftsmen.

If you are not comfortable doing this and want a smith do do it, please give your location. Somebody here may well know one close to your location. But, guys who do revolver work are getting to be harder to find.
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:47 AM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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Welcome to the Forum.

Lots of good info on this site. Please post pictures. We LOVE pictures.
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Old 04-17-2017, 02:50 AM
Petemeraz Petemeraz is offline
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Here a couple of pictures of my smith
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:06 AM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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I can tell from the photos that the front locking bolt is sticking out too far which means it's not properly aligning with and engaging the front of the extractor rod.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:59 AM
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Pete, if you live close to Odessa I can recommend a good gunsmith.
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Old 04-17-2017, 02:05 PM
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I didn't see it mentioned, but be careful of the spring loaded detent pin that holds the yoke open when you open the cylinder. It is in the frame below the hinge (round part). The very small spring can launch the pin out of the frame when the yoke is removed. Replacements aren't easy to fine, but the gun will function find without them. If you remove them, check for rust, and put a drop of lubricant in the hole before replacing them. The 1917 is a great revolver. Enjoy it.

Last edited by sodacan; 04-17-2017 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 03:16 PM
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Oft II
I would greatly appreciate it. I live in midland north of the airport in the middle of wcr 60, hwy 158, and loop 349.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:40 AM
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Call 332-9883 and ask for Dick. Likely he'll answer himself. He's a good gunsmith but like a lot of them he's also a little contrary.
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