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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 04-01-2017, 09:29 PM
USRaider USRaider is offline
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1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble 1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble 1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble 1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble 1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble  
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Default 1917 Timing Woes and Wobble Trouble

Wow... where to begin. (Specific problems at the bottom)

I have been eager to get into a 1917, and knew little about them when I bought mine.

Commercial with no Brazilian seals, S/N 1922XX.

I kept hearing this thing about timing, and understood basically that it meant the cylinder wouldn't line up with the barrel. So I cycled the revolver at the store a few times. I noticed it was difficult, and there was a bit of a bite right at the beginning of the trigger pull (or moving the hammer for sing-action.) Then, it would proceed smoothly.

It seemed okay, I assumed this was the way they were supposed to be. But there was a small amount of rotational wobble on the cylinder, which I noticed when I brought her home. I disassembled the revolver, carefully, and using several videos to get the feel of things. This is where my problems started, and where I need some help:


1)
The initial "bite" when I try to actuate the revolver seems to be coming from an interference between the cylinder stop and trigger. While disassembling, I noticed that the trigger would not freely move against the cylinder stop unless it was held and pushed a bit forward towards the muzzle. Additionally, there appears to be a small chunk removed from the forward end of the round part where the stop interacts with the cylinder, and a seeming cut into the side of it (below the frame.) There is also a bit of what looks like peening on the surface next to the stop (seen closest side of the stop in the photo.

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Q1) Will a new cylinder stop likely remove that bite? I think it may be from a worn stop. I was unwise and did not take pictures.

2)
Upon reassembly, the cylinder stop started to become stuck outside of the Cylinder dimples. It didn't seem to go into the grooves, and would sit outside of them until I lightly tapped on the frame, freeing it up.
Q2) Will a new Stop Spring correct this issue? I am thinking that it is perhaps too weak, and there is not enough pressure acting on the stop push it into the cylinder dimples.


If anyone has any solutions for my two issues, or experience with them and can help me, please let me know.
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