I replaced the rebound spring with a stronger spring. Did not like the sa still a little too light. So I made the spring stronger by inserting a bb to decrease the space. I think the trigger pull is where it should be in sa mode
got to measure it now. Was this a dumb engineering id? A S&W 1995 4th change 38 special m&p 6 inch barrel 1919.

I would worry that it would get loose and tie up the action. I believe Wolf makes a number of rebound springs.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I would have opted for a heavier spring although I probably would have liked the trigger pull you had. But I don't see an issue with it.

What did it do to your DA pull?

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Unusual topic , usually it's the other way around.

What was your trigger pull (#) before and after the modification? Is the rebound spring you tweeked original , for that matter - is everything else in the action original?

I would weigh the trigger pull before and after to compare the differences which will better help diagnose the situation. There is nothing wrong with wanting a heavier SA pull, but the important question would be why do you want it. Is it because someone installed lighter springs prior, or could it be something else?

If it would perhaps be an issue with a worn or buggered trigger sear, that would need immediate attention. Increasing the rebound spring will help in these cases, but it's just alleviating an underlying mechanical problem that requires repair.

Since I shoot S&Ws almost exclusively in DA mode your problem is not one I've ever needed to address. But I will say, if your SA pull was that light someone may have messed with your gun's action/internals.

Just my $.02 worth,
Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

Just a thought ,with the old spring set up do you have push off with the hammer at full s.a. cock . If so by adding the BB you just may be making an accident in waiting. Someone may have stoned the hammer or trigger sear edges too much .

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age is just a number

I don't understand why one would want to "increase" trigger pull because that would negatively affect aim - unless you had a "hair" trigger and that scared you. That "could" be a result of a warn hammer or trigger. I think the question asked if you had "push off" problems is valid.

As long as the trigger returns properly - you have enough rebound.

Most like to go with as "little" rebound as possible so as to increase aim and yet still safely return the trigger.

Perhaps your rebound was too light and was not returning the trigger?

I cant think of another reason to "increase" it.

If you need a BB jammed ahead of the spring to get sufficient pushback on the trigger - something is VERY wrong.

I would hate to see you get hurt - hopefully someone knows the answer. Best wishes!

Surely the rebound slide spring only affects the DA pull?

Peter

Another good point.

A number of valid questions have been asked in response to the initial post. We need answers and info lest we speculate.

Will have to say I have never had to increase the trigger pull in SA. I have had to increase the rebound spring to get reliable firing in DA however. Something is not right here.

In DA the rebound spring will combine its resistance with the main spring, giving you two springs to overcome when pulling the trigger.

In SA the rebound spring still has its resistance that must be overcome to release the hammer from the trigger.

The weaker the rebound spring - the less pull it takes to drop the hammer when cocked.

I prefer (others may not) the rebound and main spring to be as weak as possible, just so it will be sufficient enough in firing the primer. This gives a very smooth action and greater accuracy.

Too weak is no good because the trigger may not return properly or the hammer will not strike with enough force to fire the round.

For a really nice smooth action I also polish the rebound slide and grease it.

"For a really nice smooth action I also polish the rebound slide and grease it."

Don't you mean oil it with something like Rem Oil?
That's what I do, Grease?

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Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

my understanding is that the rebound spring assembly is the trigger spring =It keeps the trigger sear notch engaged into the hammer sear.It would affect both the S/A and D/A .trigger . The hammer notch(sear ) is @3-7thousands wide you must have some force on the trigger to keep the engagement with the hammer sear.It also returns the trigger to the reset position.
Please correct me if i am wrong

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age is just a number

A light grease like RIG works well, though the last 10 years or so I've been using Rem Oil.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

The hammer and trigger spring will affect single action as they both put pressure where the hammer and trigger engage in the notch on the hammer. If you have the correct springs for both hammer and trigger then look at the trigger to see that it is not been rounded or altered. Also inspect the notch on the hammer to see that it has not been altered. If the trigger needs to be sharpened that is an easy fix provided that it hasen't been done to excess previously. Does it have push off right now. If it doesn't it appears to be a spring issue which people like to modify. Adding additional parts that are not manufactures specs is not a good idea and I wouldn't do it.

I used the water weight measure to determine the trigger pull in SA it was about 4.5 lbs with the BB in the rebound bar. Ok too heavy so I removed the BB and recheck the SA trigger pull and it measured 2 lbs and 6.4 ounces. I going to leave it allow now. Feel good about the SA now, do you concur?

So , you did not like the light SA trigger pull and attempted to remedy the situation by inserting a BB into the rebound spring ... then you felt that the SA pull was too heavy so you removed the BB , and now you like the SA trigger pull?

I don't get it. As asked earlier - is the rebound spring you replaced original , and - are the rest of the components of the action original?

What are we dealing with here?

I'm guessing there is no problem - just a personal preference in feel.

2 lbs and 6.4 ounces seems a little light. Perhaps that is why you wanted it increased.

I'll bet some one took a wire cutter and cut a coil or two off the original rebound spring to lighten the pull - but over did it.

Check to see if both spring ends have completed coils - or if one end looks chopped off. The coil ends should come 360 degrees around to meet itself in a full circle.

If chopped off, that is your problem. Just find a good original (non altered) rebound spring to install and you will have the right feel.

Best wishes

Methinks the lad who uses grease on his (polished) rebound slide did so, because (good) grease stays where you put it. Oil on the other hand (good or not so good) goes wherever the spirits (and other forces) move it------and seems to have an affinity for any and all kinds of foreign matter----all that crud we see when we pop the sideplate off a particularly nasty specimen.

Me---I use a whole drop of oil in a revolver action---half on the hammer stud, half on the trigger stud. I'm not sure why---just seems like the thing to do----probably shouldn't be using any.

And speaking of polishing things, don't forget the bore of the rebound slide.

Any S&W DA revolver that really needs any lubrication to feel good has something that's bent or has burrs on it.

Ralph Tremaine