Hello again. For one who never considered himself a gun guy, I've been to the range 3 times since obtaining my old 1919 M&P. So much fun! Even enjoy cleaning it! A few more questions for you experts:
1. I found an old set of grips that I believe are the correct stocks for this model and year. Do they look authentic?
2. When cleaning the gun I use some new Hoppes 9 and some Otters gun oil that must be 50 years old. Still good I assume. Noticed that it takes many passes through the bore and cylinder to get it clean. About 10-12 patches. Is that about right for a box of 50 rounds?
3. The revolver seems to be in good shape and the finish is great except for the end half of the barrel. I know nothing about reblueing and wondered if the barrel can be touched up or should I just leave it like it is?
4. I have a plastic gun case with corrugated foam. Should I store the gun in the case or some other way?
Thanks for any suggestions. Always learning.
George

Don't store in a foam case as they can hold moisture and cause rust
Leaving the bluing alone
Perfectly clean is not essential nor do you have to clean after such limited shooting once every 500 rounds or so is plenty. The old statement run patches until they come out clean is bull. Clean enough to keep her functioning is clean enough

Unfortunately your pics didn't post. Might have to try again. Somebody will tell you if the stocks should or should not have the brass SW medallion. I forget when the change occurred.

Hoppes #9 and the Otters oil should be perfect. You might want to try running a wet patch then a bronze brush then another wet patch followed by dry to cut down the number of patches used. You don't have to get EVERY LAST bit of grime out of there, depending on your level of OCD.

Probably best to leave the worn barrel alone and appreciate it for what it is.

The foam lined case is fine for transport to the range, but the conventional wisdom is that the foam can attract and hold moisture, which is not a good thing. A silicone gun sock or just an old sock work great, assuming you've wiped it down with a bit of oil.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Congrats!

1. They would be "Service Stocks and should like the top gun's stcoks:



2. 50 year old oil does not compare to modern products that are steeped in chemistry; Breakfree, Mpro-7, Kroil and many others.

3. Most will say leave original as is. Unless the finish is totally wasted, re-bluing is not recommended. A little touch up with cold blue in small spots is OK, but not large areas. The natural wear is the gun's provenance and originality, and preferred by most.

4. Moisture is the death of guns, even if oiled. Cases/foam can retain and even attract moisture. Silicone treated 'gun socks', except for the most extreme conditions, are generally the best.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Despite the "Major" in your handle, I suspect you never spent any quality time with a drill instructor. "once every 500 rounds"! Good grief man, hundreds of former veterans probably spilled their coffee all over their keyboards when they read that. (smile)

Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

Unless you're firing 500 rounds at one sitting, storing a dirty gun and cleaning after 500 rounds is not good advice IMHO. You could do that with a break-open, smooth bore firearm - no parts to foul except the bore, but I wouldn't advise it. Revolvers and self-loading arms on the other hand, operate with very tightly tolleranced, fitted, moving parts. A revolvers barrel/cylinder gap is only a few thousands of an inch wide, and un-burned powder residue, lead & carbon can build up (depending on the powder & bullet used) enough to bind the cylinder well before 500 rounds - I have done it. Powder residue also, collects moisture like a sponge and invites rust. It's the same principle as leaving mud on your boots to dry, it'll degrade leather and rot the stitching. I think I have used every gun cleaner known to man & Mpro-7 is the best I have found. Put on your nitrile gloves. Soak the bore & cylinder charge holes with a wet patch first, and leave until the rest of the gun is clean. A wet toothbrush cleans the cylinder face, forcing cone area, ejector star and recoil shield area. Stubborn carbon on the cylinder can be removed with a wet bronze brush or #0000 steel wool. Steel wool should only be used on the cylinder face - excessive rubbing can remove blue over time. A bronze bore brush should now loosen the bore and chamber fouling, and another wet patch will remove it. Follow with dry patches to remove the all the solvent, inside and out, and replace it with a good lubricant/preservative. I remove wooden stocks - solvent will not improve them, and never srore store a gun with rubber grips. Rubber, over time will even pit stainless. This regimen has worked for me for over 45 years and I'll bet it'll work for you. Anyway, that's my two cents, and worth every penny.
P.S., Leave the gloves on until the gun is stored. Lingering acidic finger prints will rust the finish on a stored gun as efficiently as bleach.

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Jeb

That sort of advice would have gotten us killed in 'Nam. Good grief!

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318