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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 06-16-2017, 03:52 PM
Odessaman Odessaman is offline
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.32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder .32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder .32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder .32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder .32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder  
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Default .32 Hand Ejector w/ hard to open cylinder

I picked up a shooter grade hand ejector, #2749xx, a couple of weeks ago, and the cylinder is a bit tough to open. The center pin and ejector rod do not appear bent, but I noticed the front bevel of the thumb piece contacts the back of the recoil shield when I push it fully forward. Also, the face of the bolt looks to be about .001-.002 shy of flush with the face of the recoil shield when fully forward. I wonder if someone replaced the thumb piece with an incorrect one, or if something else needs to be replaced? Any other ideas?
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:31 PM
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DCWilson DCWilson is offline
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Does it feel like the cylinder is hanging up at the back end of the cylinder assembly, or out at the end of the ejector rod where the front locking lug is? (Or both places, of course.)

Sometimes if the ejector rod unscrews a portion of a turn, it lengthens the rod just enough that the push from the center pin won't be enough to let the front locking pin disengage completely.

Good observation about the thumb release, but there could also be some small hard speck of debris in the bolt's internal path of travel that keeps it from going all the way forward. A complete teardown cleaning of the action might help. Also look for grit or grime stuck under the ejector star.

I have seen plenty of sticky cylinders, but never one that was sticky because the wrong thumb piece had been mounted. Maybe I was just lucky.
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:34 PM
ArsenalFan ArsenalFan is offline
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Default Dried oil, perhaps?

On some of my older revolvers, I've found that old oil or grease inside the crane has made them hard to open. I've had success doing the following:

1. A quick shot of a cleaner with dry lube (I like Hornady One Shot) on both sides of the crane where it goes into the frame.
2. Let sit for a few minutes, then gently swing the crane on its axis back and forth (like opening/closing the revolver for loading/unloading).
3. Repeat a few times, especially if dark gunky stuff starts oozing out (that's the old oil or grease being dissolved).

Be aware that some cleaners are not good for some finishes or materials (such as plastics), so read the manufacturer's warnings prior to purchase or use.

Good luck, and I hope you enjoy your .32!
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:40 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Congrats.

Good advice above.

First thing to do to troubleshoot is remove thumbpiece. Then push the stud all the way forward. Does the bolt now come forward flush with recoil shield? If so, trim front of thumbpiece. Check for easy opening.

Second, check to be sure extractor rod is tight (right hand thread). Then push ctr pin forward and flush to cyl ratchets with a flat object. Does it stick out past the ext rod? It should stick out .002-.003”. If not stone the front of the mushroom knob until it does.

Let us know what you find.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:58 PM
merl67 merl67 is offline
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If cleaning doesn't fix it Jim is right . I have a Terrier that had the same issue using the same method Jim suggested fixed mine.
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