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02-18-2024, 12:06 PM
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Remove exterior oil and wax OR keep oiled.....
Hoping to get some opinions or whether to remove all oil from the exterior metal and apply Ren wax OR keep the outside oiled to prevent corrosion.
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02-18-2024, 12:14 PM
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Oil works quite well at preventing corrosion on carry weapons. For one that is used at the range, but otherwise stays in your residence, oil is convenient and should be adequate. If you are planning on long term storage, wax might have an advantage, but plenty of firearms have been stored for years with just a good oiling and they don't rust to death. You can remove the oil and then apply wax, but if you apply wax over oil you can end up with grease.
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02-18-2024, 12:17 PM
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I'd say if you want to use the gun clean it after firing it and then wipe with oil. If you want to try to make an unused trophy out of it then wax it and take lots of pretty pics to show it off online.
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02-18-2024, 12:20 PM
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After years of trial and error I personally find that I do not oil the outside of guns I do not shoot. Only the inside. Love Ren Wax
On my shooters I oil both but keep it very lite after cleaning and wipe it down with a cloth.
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02-18-2024, 12:24 PM
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I use Barricade on all my guns whether I shoot them or not. Spray them down, wipe them off with a silicone gun cloth, the put them in silicone gun socks in the safe. I've been using this method forever, and have never had a rust issue, even on guns that I haven't had out of the safe, or even looked at for years.
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02-18-2024, 12:31 PM
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No need to strip the gun of all oil, inside or outside. The oil gets into screw holes and seams where the wax will not. I've used Renaissance Wax for years and it is the best in my opinion. Just wipe of any excess oil with a clean cotton T-shirt or similar rag and apply a thin coat of wax. You can use your finger or a clean cotton sock. Then polish it when dry.
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02-18-2024, 01:33 PM
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I've been using G 96 Aerosol Gun Treatment for more than a few decades here in South Florida as both a long term and short term storage protectant and have never experienced the slightest rusting of any of my firearms ever.
Range guns, carry guns, hunting guns, all of them.
Another precaution against corrosion that works along with G 96 is the use of original Bore Stores when returning firearms to the safe.
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02-18-2024, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosedog
No need to strip the gun of all oil, inside or outside. The oil gets into screw holes and seams where the wax will not. I've used Renaissance Wax for years and it is the best in my opinion. Just wipe of any excess oil with a clean cotton T-shirt or similar rag and apply a thin coat of wax. You can use your finger or a clean cotton sock. Then polish it when dry.
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I find that a thin coat of oil under the Ren wax helps prevent fading of the blueing. Blue can turn to brown on guns left dry for a long time. Wipe the gun down with an oily cotton cloth...wiping so it appears dry. Then wax, wait an hour and buff the wax. Repeat this with a 2nd coat of wax. Someone here posted about the hour wait time, and it has worked great for me. The wax if dry enough to leave a good coat but still sof enough to buff easily.
All my guns that go the the range just get oiled in and out. JMHO
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02-18-2024, 02:43 PM
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And then there's this from a (retired) lunatic fringe collector: It's been called "Ralph's Bath"---applied to each and every nasty, beat up, old S&W target gun that ever came to live here----since forever---or a loooooooooong time.
1. The barrel/cylinder gets clean--no lead, no nothing left in there----takes as much as 4-5 minutes.
2. The gun comes apart----all apart except for barrels and action studs.
3. Everything goes to soak in mineral spirits for a couple 2-3 days, or until he gets back to it.
4. Each and every piece/nook/cranny (and screw hole) gets scrubbed to within an inch of its life, rinsed with with clean mineral spirits, and blown dry with DRY, high pressure compressed air (125 psi line pressure).
5. All of it gets hosed down with CorrosionX, and left to soak for a couple of 2-3 days, or until he gets back to it----and then all of the CorrosionX that will come off gets blown off. (Take note of this CorrosionX business, because it's the only thing in this entire routine that makes any sense when it comes to explaining the BOTTOM LINE!!----which is coming up directly.)
6. All these bits and pieces get stuffed back together, the exterior gets wiped down with Hoppes to remove the last of the CorrosionX, and dried/polished with a soft cloth (because there's nothing nastier looking than a blued gun with oil residue on it)----and the gun finds a place on a shelf in the display cabinet.
There were guns on the shelves of the display cabinet for over 30 years with NO further attention besides getting the dust vacuumed off a couple of time a year ('cause the cabinet wasn't air tight). That's the BOTTOM LINE!!
Now there's a little can of the super wax (and the super cleaner), all "By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen" somewhere around here, but they've never been opened---'cause they've never been needed. I figure it has to be because of the CorrosionX. I figure it must soak in or something. I figure that because there's nothing else to figure.
To repeat myself,--------over 30 YEARS----with no further attention!
Go figure!!
Ralph Tremaine
Last edited by rct269; 02-18-2024 at 02:47 PM.
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02-18-2024, 06:37 PM
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I keep wax on all of mine, knives too. I just sold a S&W 10-5 that belonged to relatives that had a lot of tiny specks of rust from storage, many that look just like tiny specks of dust. Oil attracts dust, dust attracts moisture and the moist dust specks ends up a rust speck. Oil the inside, wax the outside. The wax I use is food safe which is perfect for knives.
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02-18-2024, 07:03 PM
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I use REN Wax on Nickel and Blue that doesn’t get shot, it resists fingerprints better.
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02-18-2024, 07:13 PM
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Already been said.....Oil on the inside Ren Wax on the outside.....................................M*
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