I just bought a 5-screw, Pre-27 Model .357 Magnum with a 3-1/2" barrel, I don't think the stocks are original. I knew from the beginning that this was more of a shooter and that's more-or-less what I wanted. It came in today and I noted that part of the blue finish has been eaten away on the side-plate up by the large screw, on the recoil shield and on about 1/3 of the back-part of the cylinder...as if the gun had been set down in something on the right side. The serial number is S 151481. My two questions are...about when was it made? And, what is the expert's opinion on having it re-blued?

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S&WCA #2815
Gun Scribe

Congrats on what appears to be a nice shooter.
I'm showing 1956-57 manufacture. I don't notice any pitting so a nice blue from Fords, etc. would make it pop but if me, I'd try a touch up with some good cold blue and carry/use it as is.
ETA:
I'm not an expert... just my opinion.
And youre correct in that those stocks are factory but not original to that gun.

Most likely shipped in 1956. I would send the ".357" Magnum to Ford's Custom Refinishing in Florida. They will do an outstanding job for you. You need to find a pair of diamond Magna stocks for your Magnum.

Bill

Ebay usually has those mid-50's S&W diamond magna stocks
from time to time.

I like it as is!

I'm with Jack. You bought it as a shooter. Do a nice job of cold bluing...and shoot it!

YMMV,
Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

I'm far from an expert, but I'd be happy to give my opinion.

I think you have a great gun for your intent as a shooter. And I'd not do a thing to it except clean well and lube it lightly.
Congrats on your acquisition.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

My first choice as an engraved revolver fan is assuming that there is no pitting - take that revolver and send it to your favorite engraver and turn him loose - wait a year or so for him to perform his engraving magic... AND then have it refinished.

My second choice (and maybe my first choice knowing that you bought this as a shooter) is do as Bill recommended and send it to Ford's.

Third choice - if it does not bother you that much and you are going to pack it in a holster and shoot the heck out of it - then leave it as is and smile each time you pull the trigger.

I only recommend refinishing when there has been abuse or neglect - which is apparent in this case. I do not recommend it when there is just good honest wear.

Regardless of what you decide - take a bunch of before photos so that you can share the "before and after" images with the rest of us.

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Richard
Engraved S&W fan

Here's a couple that I sent to Fords. A pre-17 and a pre-27. Refinishing it will still make it a shooter, but one you can be proud of .

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Vietnam 1969-1971

Hi everyone and thanks for the comments, information and opinions. I saw on page 135 in the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (3rd Edition) that the upper side-plate screw was deleted at #S172000 in 1956, so it looks like perhaps 1955-56 for my gun depending on when this was done in 56. I may do some touch-up cold bluing and just have fun with it. The bore and chambers are perfect, the action right on time and the lock-up tight as a drum. I put on a T-grip adapter and have a pancake style holster coming from Simply Rugged Holsters.

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S&WCA #2815
Gun Scribe

Iffn' you get tired of it, contact me. I'm wanting a shooter like that.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I'm just glad that gun is back in the hands of someone who appreciates, and knows, what it is. That's a great rescue.

Here's some shooting I did with this Pre-27 the other day. The bulls-eye target was done at 10 yards using .38 wadcutters and the International silhouette was done at 7 yards DA with a mix of .38 WC and .357 Magnum JHP ammo.

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S&WCA #2815
Gun Scribe

Regarding dating S151481,
S150,000 – S175,999……Late 1956 – Early 1957 (Manufacture)
N-frame shipping dates often do not track too closely with SN, but 1957 shipment is likely. Closest SN I list is S1502xx shipping in 2/57.

Dwalt, I know you are an acknowledged expert, so I appreciate this information. Is the Standard Catalog of S&W 3rd Edition accurate when they say the big frame screw was dropped in 1956? Mine has that big screw...of course I also know that S&W never wasted a part, so it could still be an old frame that made it onto a gun built in 1957...???

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S&WCA #2815
Gun Scribe

" I noted that part of the blue finish has been eaten away on the side-plate up by the large screw, on the recoil shield and on about 1/3 of the back-part of the cylinder...as if the gun had been set down in something on the right side."


If I had to guess it was blood. Shoot as is or send to Ford's..

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SWCA #2306
DAV in honor of POP

"... so it could still be an old frame that made it onto a gun built in 1957...??? "

About all I know is that is been stated that N-frames lost their upper sideplate screws sometime in 1956 as the result of a 1955 manufacturing change order. I have no way of knowing the exact date range or SN as to when that happened as my data is not precise enough to establish the changeover from five screws to four screws. Could an older frame in inventory have been used to assemble a gun later? Sure it could. There are cases of shipping dates being much later than would be expected from serial numbers, and that is one possible reason. Frame manufacture dates, assembly dates, and shipping dates are three somewhat independent events, except for their ordering.

Keep it cleaned and oiled and shoot it as often as you can, enjoy it.

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Buckeye Fan
Wheel Guns Rock

Engineering Change Request #486 to delete the upper side plate screw and add a tongue to the side plate on all N and NT side plates was issued on September 7, 1956. For the 44 Magnum, the first 4-screw revolvers were shipped in February 1957, so it took about five months to implement the change for this model. The change request for K-frame revolvers was issued in 1955 and the Combat Magnum, a new model, was first manufactured with a 4-screw frame. Since many K frame side plates were in inventory, I don't know how long it took to implement this change for the other models.

Bill

If I remember correctly, the order for the upper sideplate screw was issued in September 56 and the order for model numbers to begin in June 57. Theoretically, there is about a 9 or 10 month window there. But, there is a changeover process where old parts were used up as guns were built. From threads read here, it appears that it took several months before 5 screw frames were used up, and model stamping did not begin immediately either. I have a 4 screw .44 Magnum, non model marked, that shipped in 1958.
One item that may have affected shipping dates for the .357 Magnum, or Model 27 stamped guns, was the introduction of the Combat Magnum, later the Model 19. It would have been normal for police to be wanting the lighter gun for carry, slowing the N frame magnum shipping.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Get yourself a really nice pair of stocks/grips that you like and that will go a long way towards making it "yours". Finish it off with a well used Old Name floral carved holster and start carrying that beauty.

It looks like a nice pre 27 to me. No matter who reblues it, and how good they do, it will always look like a reblued gun.
It can only be original once. To make it like period bluing you would need the charcoal bluing which very few people do any more. If you must refinish it, I would suggest nickel.

My pre 27 is S 159084 and shipped in September of 1956. My 1955 .45 Target is S 159461 and shipped in February of 1958 my model 27 is S 198705 and shipped in November of 1959. So as you can see, serial numbers and dates can be all over the board.

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James Redfield
LM #497

To highlight the interesting timing related to the shipping of the 357 Magnum, I have three different engineering changes that shipped in 1959:

5-Screw Pre-27 - Shipped April 1959



4-Screw Pre-27 (No Model Mark) - Shipped July 1959



4-Screw Model Marked 27 - Shipped October 1959



The other interesting thing on the above guns is that they all shipped to the same store - J. S. Oshman Co in Houston, TX. Of course the engraving could have had some impact on the timing...

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Richard
Engraved S&W fan

My gun acquisition/ownership philosophy over 50 years of collecting...
'Almost' without exception, economics in mind. Never buying with concerning for resale per se. Yet very, very rarely purchasing without some 'investment' consideration. A number of my guns in the 'nice old gun' category. Many of my 'collectibles' becoming so simply by duration in my hands; happily 'ripening', though not particularly intentional!
I can appreciate a gun for what it is. In my estimation, not often to take a candidate piece, do a quality refinish and come out ahead from an investment standpoint. While to appreciate a such refinish, often 'qualified', considering the economics resulting. (Aside: Rendering a gun an 'objet d'art', quite another entire culture & realm, not subject to 'pedestrian economic rules'.)
Otherwise...
Just my take

I agree with ditrina above. The missing blue looks to me like a blood stain, and one that was wiped off pretty quickly. Blood is an amazing blue remover, as efficient or better than Naval Jelly!

A typical scenario is a cut from the hammer spur under recoil in the top of the right thumb (for a right hand shooter). The gun is put down, the flow of blood is squelched, and then attn. is turned to the gun to wipe off the blood. But it's already too late; the blue is gone. Any longer and pitting results.

A few above have recommended Ford's Refinishing in Florida.
I'm not here to bash Ford's Refinishing. But since the old man retired a couple of years ago, some extremely poor testimonials relating bad experiences have come forward on several forums.

Their work was exceptional and many fine examples are found on this forum from the past. So all I'm suggesting is 'cuidado", use caution. Do some careful homework before sending your gun.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Jim, was not aware of that regarding Fords. Thanks for sharing.

Charles (Toad), Jim (Hondo) and all the rest. Thanks for your information and insights. I checked with Fords and T&D Metal Works, they all want around $400 for a quality polish and blue. I bought this gun for a shooter, so I've decided to keep it as is. I had a blood-stained Terrier .38 that S&W refinished for me back years ago, so I'm sure that is what it is. It shoots good, so I'm just gonna enjoty it.

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S&WCA #2815
Gun Scribe

It is with some trepidation that I offer caution about Ford's work these days. There are several threads on the Colt Forum that document terrible work by Fords. I personally would not send anything to Ford's after seeing pictures of Colt Forum member's guns butchered by Ford's. Some of the worst examples do not have a sharp edge remaining on them, and the "restoration" of markings was done with a pin punch machine!

If anyone wants to search for the pictures on the Colt Forum, the Colt Forum member with the user name of "Rick Bowles" posted pictures of the latest Ford's butcher job. A search for "Ford's" will probably turn up other threads documenting poor Ford's work.

I recall a relatively recent post here on this Forum that showed a couple of Smith & Wesson revolvers that looked very "soft" after being refinished by Ford's, with "pulled" screw holes as well.

At one time, Ford's did decent (but not up to Turnbull standards) work, but apparently not now.

I have a Triplelock, a 2nd model 44, and a Colt Diamondback at Ford's right now. We should have a definitive answer in the next 4 or 5 weeks.