I was doing some quick searches last week in Gun Broker, just before bed time, which is not a good idea because I'am tired and my judgement may be questionable.

I came across a K-38 listed as "K-38 S&W Target Masterpiece 6" Blued from 1955".http://www.gunbroker.com/item/665368299

There was only five pictures and two were very blurry. Then I noticed the address was only one line. There was a hang tag on the gun and the serial number was K 22528.

Some quick searching I found this was probably shipped around April 1948 and one line K 38's are pretty scarce. It did have a bad chip in the matching grips.

The aution started at $400.00 and with two bids it was a $425.00 and a buy now of $500.00 with 18 hours to go.

I started to wait till the next day and bid, but I thought a one line K 38 at $500.00 was a good deal-the win.

The loss.

The gun arrived today and I immediately noticed the gun has a heavy, wide barrel.

The pictures were not good, but I guess I made a rookie mistake by not noticing the barrel.

There are no rework dates under the grips or serial number on the barrel.

What are the chances of finding the correct narrow, light barrel?

Oh well, live and learn.

Phil

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Yours was probably shipped around mid-1948. I show the highest known K-series with the single line as SN K30060, also around mid-1948. All you can do is keep looking on eBay and the gun auction sites for a replacement barrel. Maybe someone reading this has one. What is the SN on your barrel (assuming it has one)? Not sure I'd worry too much about replacing the barrel if I was buying it as a shooter. Putting an original style barrel on it won't make it worth any more.

No serial number on the barrel.

I would be happy with it as is but you should be able to find a replacement barrel. Just be patient and keep looking.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

I can't see the "I lost" part in this story.
I see a really nice revolver at a good price.

Every gun has a story, as does this one. I think you did OK. Shoot it and enjoy it.

No loss there at $500, a nice revolver at a fair price.

Yes it is still a very nice revolver for a good price, but being a somewhat scarce single line address, it would have been nice to be all original.

Phil

I know where one is. Send me a PM.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

I track the single-line K-38s, and that's the lowest five-digit serial number I know for one. There are a few known K + four-digit guns, and then a bunch in the K22500-K25500 range (round numbers, no certainty). With those sharp shoulders, the stocks look like they could be original. The frame and cylinder finish look really good.

I know the serial numbers of 23 K-38s in the K2xxxx range. About half have dates. The most recent ship date among them is June 1948. Most guns with known dates in that range shipped in May.

Definitely worth finding a narrow rib barrel to put it back in original condition.

Seriously, even with the wrong barrel, that is a great score.

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David Wilson

I call that a no lose situation, and since it looks like you may be able to get a proper barrel? Win, win.

I have been doing a lot of research while I was waiting for this gun to be delivered and have seen several of your post with a lot good information on early post war K frames.

The stocks are matching but the left panel does have a large chip missing.

If I am able to locate a barrel would the factory swap it out on one this old?

Phil

I doubt the factory would touch it, but any competent gunsmith should be able to replace a barrel reliably.

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David Wilson

This is a no win situation. If you do find a light bbl. loose, the serial number will not match and I am not quite sure the frames are the same. My advice is to leave it alone. You have bought a shooter and it is no longer collectible. Big Larry

Which is essentially what I wrote earlier. It is not now, and never will be, a collectible, and it probably will not shoot a bit better after a barrel swap, so there's not much point in spending anything on it - unless it just makes you feel good enough to justify the expense. A good K-38 shooter is worth what you paid.

For what you spent you have a great looking K38 that will provide untold hours of joy at the range. If it bothers you I am rather confident that you can get your investment back if you sell or trade....
I like it.
Have some fun with it.

For the record, the OP's frame does indeed have the correct contour for the tapered barrel.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

First I would like to encourage those that like to letter their early guns to join the S&WHF.

I had seen a post that mentioned S&WHF members get a copy of the invoice for their gun if one available.

I received my letter today and a copy of the sales invoice.

What is odd is the invoice date is July 9 1948, but it did not ship until December 6, 1948 to W.S Darley, Chicago Illinois. W.S. Darley started in 1908 selling firefighting and Police equipment and is still in business.

The serial number 22528 is one of the earliest 5 digit serial numbers with a single line address.
It was invoiced in July, was there not one available, did it sit around the factory till Dec?
I know these are question we can't answer.

Also I have the correct narrow barrel thanks to wheelgun610. Still looking for the time and a local smith to change it out.

Phil

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"one line" k38 site:smith-wessonforum.com - Google Search

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A Country Boy Can Survive

You got one heck of a good buy at $500. I would do nothing to this but shoot it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Well, I finally made to the range Saturday.

I had dry fired it at home both single action and double action.
At the range the first two shots single action were in a half dollar circle, "man this thing shoots"

Third round hammer will not cock. Empty, reload, same scenario depending where the cylinder started maybe two or three without failing to cycle.

Finally gave up and shot the 10-5 and the HK USP compact 9 I had with me.

When I got it home I put in 6 empty cases and tried to cock it single action. First cylinder hammer would only move slightly, but would pull double action, #2 would not, 3,4,5 would #6 would not.

Cylinder gap to barrel is around .005-.006. Someone has monkeyed with this one a bit, with the barrel change and the hammer block was also missing.

It has to go to a gunsmith for the barrel change anyway, but anybody have an idea why it will not cycle single action with cases in the cylinder?

I took the side plate off and cleaned it good but did not dissembled the cylinder and extractor rod.

My day starts early, off to bed.

Phil

You're breaking my heart here. I was fortunate enough to acquire a NOS barrel for a K-32... un-numbered, never fitted to a gun. I thought I was going to be "settling" for a late, bull barrel with wide rib. I even got a suitable Model 14-3 on which to graft it. So of course the barrel is the one I really wanted in the first place, I'm looking for the very gun you just bought, already mismatched but with early features I need. Just to add to my frustration I also have a tapered K-22 barrel that was factory cut for a LERK. The only thing I don't have is the narrow rib K-38 barrel you had to find. I guess that's why they call it collecting... we keep collecting up stuff while looking for what we actually want!

Froggie

Check the end-shake on each chamber. If you have excessive front-to-back movement on several chambers, it shows the yoke is not square. Its not a hard fix with the right tools. When the yoke is not true, the cylinder sits at slightly different angles on each chamber, and it can cause problems like what you described.

Can you see if the cylinder is rubbing on the barrel? If so, could be that a cylinder shim might help.

Are you shooting reloads or factory? These revolvers have tight tolerances and the slightest rise in a seated primer will cause the cylinder to stick. To eliminate any potential issues with the cylinder, re-create the sticking spot and see if there is any amount of play in the cylinder? If the cylinder is bound up tight, it may be either a primer or the barrel is set back too far. If you can feel a small amount of play in the cylinder when the gun is locked up, it is something else like the cylinder stop, hand, etc. and a gunsmith should check it out.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I have 1950 heavy barrel K 38 masterpiece and a one line address K 22 with a narrow barrel, so this K 38 will fit right into my "collection" when ever I get it right.

Phil

I tried two different loads, one was factoery and one was from Ga Arms, which may have been new or reloads, I'm not sure.

I checked the cylinder to barrel gap and it was around .005-.006.

It did not bind double action , only when pulling hammer back in single action.

I leaning toward what you said, the cyinder stop or hand.

I think I will leave to someone who knows more than I.

Thank you for the suggestions.

Phil

Have you tightened the extractor rod?

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

I don't think I have check it, I also need to check and make sure it's not bent.

Thanks,
Phil

A loose or overly shortened main spring strain screw can cause that too.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Removed the cylinder, cleaned and checked everything. It appears the cylinder stop is not dropping down far enough on certain holes.

In single action when a cylinder hangs up, slight pressure on the the trigger will drop the cylinder stop down and the cylinder will rotate.

Would a poorly fitted cylinder stop cause this or is something else worn?

Strain screw looks good.

Thank you all the replies.
Phil