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07-23-2017, 12:50 PM
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.22 HFT- Replacement parts?
Hi all, new to the forum-
Did some searching but am a bit over my head trying to locate some parts for my greet granddads .22 hft
S/n 2534xx
I believe that puts it late 1916-1917 ship date?
Anyhow it went to my grandfather and my dad and is now mine. it's the first gun I ever shot. Still have the first 6 shells. So very important to me and my brother. It has always been missing the rear sight blade and I just guess and still get decent groups but i really want to find a sight blade before it's totally impossible. Standard patridge front sight so it should have regular square notch right?
Million dollar question- anyone know where I can find one?
The other part is the cylinder stop. The side to side play is not horrible but definitely should be dealt with.
I've probably put 8-10k rounds throught this gun in the last 20 years and god knows have many rounds before me. It's been well loved but well used and I'd like to keep it that way.
Last edited by CVosburgh; 07-23-2017 at 01:00 PM.
Reason: photo
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07-23-2017, 01:00 PM
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so photobucket sucks and is infuriating to use. what do you guys use to upload?
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07-23-2017, 01:02 PM
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Your dating should be correct - the WWI period. I wouldn't think a replacement cylinder stop (if it is the problem) would be difficult to find from the usual sources, no ideas about where to find a sight blade. Others will probably tell you where to go.
Part of the sloppy cylinder problem could be a worn cylinder stop slot in the frame rather than the stop itself, and those can be shimmed. I don't know how, having never done it, but you will probably also hear from someone else about that.
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07-23-2017, 02:41 PM
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or another question, under what category would i look on numrich? I dont see an obvious choice
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07-23-2017, 02:41 PM
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The rear sight blade in the HFT would be different than any current model (and even different than any J Frame sight). It is an I Frame, and it would not be too difficult for a machinist to make one, if you can find one for a pattern. It is a steel flat piece that slides in a groove in the sight base (for windage) and has a notch on either end for the opposing screws to fit into. You loosen up the screws and move the blade, then re-tighten them. You might try Poppert's Gun Parts Main Menu or Numrich Gun Parts. Good luck.
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H Richard
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07-23-2017, 03:45 PM
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ref. cyl. stop slot shims. Didnt Mr. D. B. line the notches of 32 HEs ?
And others up till 1909. Got a lot expensive.
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Mike 2796
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07-23-2017, 09:13 PM
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Congrats on having and keeping your great family heirloom!
Serial #s 253378 - 253,584 shipped 7/9/1917.
Yes the Patridge front sight would use the sq notch rear blade. That's an early model for that sight set up which didn't become standard until the early 1920s, and was likely specifically ordered that way.
Do not worry about the play in the revolver as long as it locks in position and doesn't spit lead from the bar/cyl gap. Even on a brand new revolver some play is required. And on such an old gun, more play is normal.
Possible sources of a rear sight blade:
Member: Club Gun Fan has a hoard of S&W sight parts. Private message him.
George Dye (Google David Carroll's) for old Smith parts, sight blades, etc.
"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale.
Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com
David Clements - Clements Custom Guns reproduces the pre war sight.
PH: 276-238-8761
2766 Mt. Zion Rd.
Woodlawn, VA 24381
[email protected]
Clements Custom Guns
Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts. Sells working
parts to FFL dealers only.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W)Mike who works for Lee has 45 M25 barrels.
(Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
Parallels H-Sphere
Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]
Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Guns n Parts - New and Used Guns Bought and Sold.
Good hunting,
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07-23-2017, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmborkovic
ref. cyl. stop slot shims. Didnt Mr. D. B. line the notches of 32 HEs ?
And others up till 1909. Got a lot expensive.
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Yes, that's correct!
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Jim
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07-23-2017, 10:04 PM
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Thanks Hondo44 for the resources, that's more leads than I was hoping for! Cheers!
As for the cylinder, it's definitely gotten worse in the last few years and the past few times out with it I did notice shrapnel coming off to the sides when firing, so I think the slop must be shaving the bullet as it enters the barrel
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07-23-2017, 10:10 PM
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Try these tests:
Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger.
Cock the hammer very slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks.
If satisfactory, now operate the gun in DA pulling the trigger slowly; again confirm the cyl locks before the hammer drops. After each cycling of the action, confirm that the cyl is still locked in position.
Are the cyl notches burred on either side?
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Jim
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07-24-2017, 09:34 AM
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There is some burrs on the cylinder detents. What is that indicative of? The cylinder locks up at pretty much the same point for each cylinder. Roughly with the hammer face at 45 degrees to the chamber face of the cyl. The hammer does not drop when pushed.
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07-24-2017, 07:43 PM
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Before I consider new parts, I always try less invasive methods on old guns, as suggested in the old gunsmithing manuals. I have a couple of 22/32 HFTs like yours. Yours looks in very good condition. The burring on the cyl notches is minimal.
One of mine is in considerably worse condition and the following was very successful to tighten up the cyl:
Do you work on guns? This is a simple do-it-yourself method.
No need to take the gun apart at all. I lay the gun on a padded surface on its right side, muzzle pointing to the left (I’m right handed) with cyl propped open with a rolled up shop cloth.
Tightening the cyl with light peening, a small hammer and flat tipped punch is all that's needed. The ratchet teeth are not hardened! This takes finesse, not force.
You want to lightly peen the rear vertical surface of each ratchet tooth. The flat surface facing you is where to peen, on the edge right above the bottom side of the tooth where the hand contacts the tooth. One or two taps per tooth.
Close the cyl and cock the hammer after peening all the teeth and check the cyl rotational play.
By doing this, the hand will hold the cyl tighter against the cyl bolt to eliminate play, and improve alignment of the chamber to the barrel.
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