Hand Ejector
Serial C31436
.38 Special
2" Barrel
Fixed Sights
Strain Screw
5 Screw
Yoke has no Model #

I was told this was a Model 10. Another Forum here gave me feedback that that serial # is a digit short of being a Model 10 serial number. A knowledgeable friend thinks "its what known as a "pre-model" 10. Its a gun that they came out with before giving its its own number designation for lack of a better explanation."

This was my father's NYPD off duty revolver. He retired in 1971 and passed it to a cousin who was on Nassau County PD, who passed it to his younger brother, also Nassau County.

They have kindly passed it back to me.

Looking for manufacture or ship date. Any comments / info. I'm cleaning it up and looking to go back to original grips. Thanks - anything is much appreciated!

Barrel image shows "38S&cW.SPC.CTG
Handle has letters S N

Attached Images

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	20170724_203911.jpg (28.8 KB, 128 views)
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The Model 10 started about C430xxx, so yours is a M&P, pre-model 10. It was probably shipped around late 1948.

The correct grips would be checkered wood Magnas, sharp shoulder style. Look on eBay. Nickel is original.

Welcome to the Forum.

That is a .38 Military & Police. It is indeed a pre Model 10, as it has the post WW II short action. Someone else will be along soon to give you a date.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Your friend is right, it is a pre-model 10, called a Military and Police at the time. It's post 1948 because of the hammer. Someone will be along soon to nail it down for you. It's great that your cousin got it back to you.

Looks like you're missing a screw!

Also appears to be original nickel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Screw is there, just darkened as it was under grips.

You're sure? Looks like it could have been replaced with a blued one...

At first glance I also thought the screw was missing but at second glance, I could make out the screwdriver slot. It's fine as it can't be seen with Magna grips in place. Might try some metal polish on the nickel.

What would you recommend using to polish, and how should I handle the rust on frame under grips. I don't want to damage finish.

There are several, such as Flitz and Mother's Mag. For the rust on the grip frame, do what you can using bore cleaner, penetrating oil, etc. with a paper towel.

Welcome to the forum.

Most folks use Flitz or Simi Chrome to polish nickle. DO NOT use steel wool or any strong abrasives or you can ruin the finish. Follow up with a good coat of Renaissance Wax.

Based on guns in my collection I would put your gun around 11/48 to 1/49. Most likely December 48.

C 2077 11/48
C 46336 1/49
C 53207 2/49
C 84786 8/49

Model numbers were not assigned until 1957 or 58 so your gun would not be model marked. The N on the grip frame signifies that the gun was shipped as a nickle gun and the S is merely one of the assembler, fitter or inspectors marks.

The .38 M&P became the model 10 when model numbers were assigned and many think that any .38 M&P without model marks is a pre 10. Others feel that only those made postwar to 1957 should be called pre 10's. Since "pre" means before, technically any .38 M&P was made before 1957 when they became model 10's but you will have to decide which school you follow.

It's kind of like saying that a baby is a pre adult while others say only a teenager is a pre adult.

The model 10 and its .38 M&P predecessors are one of the backbone firearms in the S&W line with over 7,000,000 produced to date and still going.

It is great that the gun has found its way home as there are over 7,000,000 that you can own but only one that was your fathers.

__________________
James Redfield
LM #497

Thanks to all - I'm going with the 12-1948 as that's my birthday - dad got me and .38 at same time. Fond memories of this growing up and shootin with dad.

The normal convention is that a "pre-Model 10" is one made with the short action and high-speed hammer, beginning in about April 1948 at about SN S990xxx and ending with the onset of model numbering at about SN C430xxx. The earliest Model 10s were essentially identical to the pre-Model 10s except for the name (but there were a few minor cosmetic differences made during that period such as the shape of the front sight and the grips).

But in a purely chronological sense, ignoring engineering design changes, any K-frame M&P made prior to about SN C430xxx clear back to 1899 could be legitimately termed a pre-Model 10. Note that "pre-Model 10" is collector-speak and S&W never used the term.