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  #1  
Old 07-31-2017, 12:35 PM
Jetman22 Jetman22 is offline
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Well I raised my hand at an auction and bought a gunsmith piece mill.
I believe it to be 32 S&W Long. I tried a 32 h&r Mag casing without a bullet and it won't go in all the way otherwise it looked about right. It's had the barrel replaced. And now looks like it sports a bull barrel. It had a huge set of finger grips. Square butt. Looks k frame to me. Serial number is V194xxx on the bottom of the strap. No where else that I see. And you guessed it. It's been in a flood with finish issues.
Help me identify the pieces. And what could I do cheaply for a finish if I decide to make it more than what it is.
Thanks
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:47 PM
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Like...where to start? It has a WWII Victory serial number. So, yes it has a K frame. Apparently, someone found a .32 Long cylinder and made a barrel then mounted the target sights. A true Frankengun with jeweled hammer and trigger and a trigger shoe! Have it bead blasted then use a cheap Parkerizing kit to finish it out.
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:51 PM
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A frankengun for sure, complete with add-on adjustable rear sight. It started life as a WWII Victory model, and the cylinder is very unusual. Uncertain whether it was an original .32 Long cylinder (fairly rare) or if it has somehow been converted from .38 Special. If it shoots, use it as-is. If you want to try your hand at a DIY bluing job, well and good. You might try the Lauer spray coatings that look like bluing. I wouldn't spend a penny to get it professionally refinished.

Last edited by DWalt; 07-31-2017 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 07-31-2017, 01:34 PM
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Don't think if it as a frankengun. Think if it as a custom, one of a kind target revolver.
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Old 08-01-2017, 08:24 AM
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What's the 'M' stamped in betw each chamber on the back face of the cylinder? Looks like a slight step down cut about 1/16" in from the outside edge,,could the cyl be from a K22..just wondering


A project for sure but I'd probably take the already fitted 32L bbl off, turn it down leaving a small shoulder at the frame. Then use a common 38cal bbl, bore it out to slide over the thinned down 32 bbl and secure in place.

Called a sleeve job instead of a liner,,the 32cal bbl retains the threaded portion and forcing cone and is strong enough to withstand shooting on it's own.
The sleeve made from an orig bbl mearly supplys an original contour, look and in this case will add the front locking lug back to the pistol.
Soldering was the old method of joining the two,,most use a bearing & shaft securing Loctite compound now and they ain't comin' apart!

I;d replace the current rear sight and replace with a standard S&W adj rear. Or go old school and do a pre-war style adj rear.
Orig are hard to find but not impossible especially in K frame. Dave Clements was making a repop of them for his conversions,,don't know if he still sells them to the public or not.
Maybe go back to a fixed sight style frame which would require filling in the adj site cut.

If you did keep the adj rear site, alter the front fixed sight on the bbl sleeve to a base for a pinned in place blade. You'll need that for the adj rear.

Do any necessary mech repairs to revolver to tighten specs, timing ect. The centerpin hole in the frame looks a little wobbly,,might need a bushing.
The hammer I'd replace w/a standard Victory hammer to get rid of the hammer spur alteration. Maybe the trigger too if there are any problems and just if you want the CCH finishes to match.

Fit some period grips or make something special for it.

Polish, recut the markings, change the 38 to 32 on the bbl, maybe add some engraving to to the gun to personalize it ,,then blue, (rust or hot salt).

There,,hows that for spending your time and money!
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Old 08-01-2017, 09:15 AM
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Wow Frankin Gun
That's for sure spending $1000 to make a $500 gun.
The V in the serial number making it victory model would have originally been a 38 frame?
I don't know what all the markings on the cylinder are.
The more I inspect the gun the more issues I find.
The trigger guard appeared to been broken at one time and brazzed back together.
This came from an auction of a deceased gunsmith. Before his wife could let his things go there house and shop flooded.
There was quite a few unique guns for sale. Most of the rifles had been rebarreled to different calibers.
There were a few other smiths there also.
Model 46 22 semi auto
Model 30-1 32 S&W Long
Model 25
Model ? In 45 colt
And a few more.
I did think the guns went for decent prices.


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Old 08-01-2017, 09:34 AM
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Jimmy's non-expert opinion:
Clean it up with oil and a copper pad.
Take it to the range and shoot it.
If it is accurate, re-blue it.
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Old 08-01-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetman22 View Post
Wow Frankin Gun
That's for sure spending $1000 to make a $500 gun.
That's what project guns are all about!

Have fun with it whatever way you go with it.
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Old 08-01-2017, 10:20 AM
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"The V in the serial number making it victory model would have originally been a 38 frame?"

Yes, this is a K frame. The Victory models came in two configurations- a 4" .38 special, intended for the US military or for civil defense here in the US (plant guards and police); the second was a 5" in .38 S&W, intended for troops from the British Commonwealth.

Victory models were the wartime production of the .38 Military & Police revolver. All were built during the war years of 1942-1945.
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:34 PM
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I would a bought it cheap just for the cylinder. Like said a K38 barrel could be made into a nice shroud. A gunsmith special. But, K 32 are rare and expensive
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:46 PM
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Here's a pic of the cover plate on the right side. There's a visible gap. Is the frame bent or warped. Will this cause shooting problems?



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Old 08-05-2017, 04:27 PM
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Since the cylinder looks to be recessed, What are the chances it started as a .22?
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:07 PM
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I don't think the apparent gap will ever hurt a thing. This gun was the Gunsmith's project for himself. The barrel is probably a segment of a rifle barrel and therefore may well be rifled at a slower twist than a pistol barrel. The rear sight is a Millett product and is a good sight. The rear of the cylinder has been releaved for a full-moon or half-moon clip system. The Cylinder was a pre-model number .22 LR caliber at one time. I have seen the front sight before, but can't remember the manufacture.

I would clean and oil it up, shoot with good ammo for accuracy and if acceptable have it CerraCoated by someone and then never spend another cent on it. I would shoot the heck out of it.

The presence of the trigger shoe indicates intended target use. I would not put this handgun in a holster for everyday holster carry without removal of that trigger shoe.

If your got this handgun cheap enough, it was a good buy. It will be a great gun to take to the range or to the County Dump to shoot rats........
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:41 PM
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"The rear of the cylinder has been releaved for a full-moon or half-moon clip system."

Don't think so. Look at the side view. There is no room there for moon clips. This is a cylinder that had recessed chambers, either a .22 Long Rifle or maybe a .22 Jet. I haven't handled a .22 Jet in years and I'm not sure it was recessed.
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Old 08-05-2017, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Cholla View Post
I don't think the apparent gap will ever hurt a thing. This gun was the Gunsmith's project for himself. The barrel is probably a segment of a rifle barrel and therefore may well be rifled at a slower twist than a pistol barrel. The rear sight is a Millett product and is a good sight. The rear of the cylinder has been releaved for a full-moon or half-moon clip system. The Cylinder was a pre-model number .22 LR caliber at one time. I have seen the front sight before, but can't remember the manufacture.

I would clean and oil it up, shoot with good ammo for accuracy and if acceptable have it CerraCoated by someone and then never spend another cent on it. I would shoot the heck out of it.

The presence of the trigger shoe indicates intended target use. I would not put this handgun in a holster for everyday holster carry without removal of that trigger shoe.
I agree with Big Cholla except for the cyl. Although I also think the most likely scenario is a K frame 22 cyl reamed to 32, itís not cut for clips. Just has the standard firing pin clearance groove for a 22 cyl. Since chambers are recessed thereís not enough head space for clips even if they made them for the 32 rimmed cartridge case.

A factory 32 Long cyl is also possible although a bit scarce, but he was a gunsmith.

The poor fitting sideplate is a replacement for sure, and may be to add the post war sliding bar hammer block safety. It will be seen in the hammer channel with hammer cocked if it has been added. And the hammer will have a notch below the firing pin.
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:56 PM
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Just looked at it more closely.
Says US Navy on left side i of the top strap.
Cylinder has been turned. There is a 4 digit number where it is recessed on the cylinder cut in half. Only half the numbers are showing.


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Old 08-07-2017, 03:34 AM
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I love it. It has all kinds of possibility's. Heck I would take it in a minute, Mail me if you decide to get rid of it.
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Old 08-07-2017, 08:11 PM
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Well
These grips don't fit.
What kind do I need ?



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Old 08-07-2017, 09:00 PM
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Cool.......a diamond in the rough!
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Old 08-10-2017, 04:36 PM
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If you don't have a 32 you'll find them cheap to reload. If the gunsmith was looking for accuracy he may have put a really good barrel on it. You'll need to find out. If it is accurate it is a sweet (albeit ugly) gun. Get really good with it, nonchalantly let some purist sniff at your "ruined" gun and then outshoot him! If inaccurate? Then I don't know. Making it accurate could be expensive. It all hinges on the dead gunsmith- was he building a target gun or just seeing what he could assemble with what he had on hand. A buddy who made beautiful flintlocks helped me build my first (and only) flinter. He made an ugly derringer out of junk parts just to have something to do while he told me to be careful.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:24 PM
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First thing I'd do is check the timing. If that's OK, then I'd shoot it and decide where to go from there.
Looks like you can just sand those grips down a bit and make 'em fit. Are you sure they fit a K-frame?
As far as a finish, I've had excellent results with Blue Wonder.

K-frame .32 target revolvers are rare and very expensive. If you can put one together on the cheap, I'd sure give it a try.
Or you can just sell it to me.
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:38 PM
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Promise me you'll get rid of those "Mullett" sights......
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Old 08-10-2017, 05:59 PM
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Those are N frame grips someone sanded smooth. You need K frame grips.
Whenever I see a gun like this, I always wonder if it was a gunsmithing school student project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetman22 View Post
Well
These grips don't fit.
What kind do I need ?



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Old 08-16-2017, 09:08 PM
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Well. Verdict is in.
Yes. Grips are not k frame. They are L.
Finally stopped by a us forestry service range to shoot frankin.
No way to remote fire so I did a hope it doesn't blow up firing.
Put on thick leather glove on my left hand ( I'm right handed) protecting my hand just in case.
Loaded a single round reaching around a big pine tree shielding me from the gun a pow.
No problems
Did this for all cylinders. No problems.
Was using angullia 96 gr round nose lead bullets.
Timing is a little rough. Still needs the insides cleaned derusted and oiled.
Action is gravely.
Shot about 40 shells. The only thing I noticed was that the empty shells from 2 cylinders were sooted up down the sides of the brass with each shot.
As for accuracy. With bi focals
It's hard to say. I was hitting an 8 in square 5/6 at 25 yrs with a rest. Not great but see the bi focals above.
Now to find a set of k grips.
It is a little nose heavy.
I saw a set of victory grips but I'm not sure I'd like them. Probably will find k frame.
More to come. I just need to reload some shells.
Maybe see what jacked bullets do.

What do you think about reaming to 32 H&R Mag ? Hum!!!!


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Old 08-16-2017, 09:21 PM
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Reaming to 32 H&R Mag is the easiest thing you'll ever do on a gun.

All you have to do is extend the chamber by moving the shoulder forward 1/8". The K frame cyl is plenty robust for the cartridge.

I've done many S&W J and K frames and Single Six Rugers.
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:58 PM
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K frame and L frame grips are the same size.
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:50 PM
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Are we sure this is a .32 long cylinder , and not a .32-20 ? From the back the K-frame cylinder chambers look bigger than the .32 long should be.
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:09 AM
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Yes, in the OP's original post he stated that the 32 H&R would not chamber all the way.

However a 32 H&R will fully chamber in 32-20 chambers. And shoot accurately, as well.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:44 AM
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I don't know what kind of grips the ones that are too large are for but I took my K38 masterpiece grips off my 38 and they fit perfect.
32-20 won't fit they are even longer than the 32 h&r Mag.


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Old 08-17-2017, 07:08 AM
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At this point there is no need to get K frame grips, Get a sharp pencil and draw around the frame where the grips hang over. Then use a wood rasp or course sand paper to take the grips down to the pencil line rounding then a bit, then go to finer paper. Some oil finish and your done. If you want fill the grooves with some kind of filler like Epoxy with coloring, JB weld, or get some saw dust fill grooves with super glue and saw dust and repeat until filled lightly sanding between coats.

Use brass wool and Kroil to clean up the rust, Fine files and sand paper backed by something like a small piece of flat bar and round stock to clean up the rough spots. Get another ejector rod with the knurling on it and install. Tear it down and clean the guts up, stone any rough spots except the sears. Find a drill that fits the hole for barrel pin and install, if the barrel itself is not drilled, drill it out going easy so you don"t snap the drill. If you take your time and think of it as a project you can make it look pretty good. Once it is all looking good you have home finish options, Disassemble, put exterior parts on a cookie sheet and put it in the oven at say 300f. Then use a Q tip and cold blue to touch it up. Or first remove all the finish with naval jelly then use some Plum Brown and the heat to make it a dark purple. Or once it is stripped to bare steel and cleaned up, take a small box and stick it in the box with a rag damped with salty water. Either stick it in a warm place or if the box is big enough place a light bulb in it. Every few days remove it and wipe off the rust with fine steel wool. Repeat a bunch of times and then stick it in a pot of boiling water for 30 min or so, then oil it well for a decent rust blue. Shoot the snot out of it.

I wouldn't worry about the soot on the brass much. 32 S&W is pretty low pressure and the brass probably isn't blowing out very tight in the chambers and letting some burning gas come back a bit.

Last edited by steelslaver; 08-17-2017 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:15 AM
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Hondo 44 Wrote:

"However a 32 H&R will fully chamber in 32-20 chambers. And shoot accurately, as well."

With all due respect I have to ask you where did you get this information from ? ?

I have before me two of my guns. One in .32-20 and the other in .32H&R mag.
The OP is saying his .32H&R case stops short of chambering in his gun.
I find that too be the case when I attempt to place a .32 H&R magnum in my gun chambered for .32-20 . It stops .145" short from fully seating.

You have stated it would fully fit into the chamber and shoot. I find that to not be possible.

As to firing a .32S&WL from a .32-20 chamber that is doable but since the case diameter on a .32S&WL is slightly smaller (.337") than that of the .32-20 (.342") it would explain the sooting the OP found on the .32 S&WL cases as there would not be proper sealing of that case. (also a little wiggle when the unfired .32 S&W cartridge is placed into his guns chamber)

My point ?. I believe everything leads to that gun being chambered in .32-20 and not in .32 S&WL

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Old 08-17-2017, 11:08 AM
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I agree on the 32-20 caliber.
I have shot a revolver exactly like yours, and it was a 32-20.
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:54 AM
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Could those grips be n frame magnas? If so you probably don't want to cut them down?
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Old 08-17-2017, 12:09 PM
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I don't have an N frames to compare.
As for it maybe being 32-20. I with try a shell tonight and see if it fits. I think I tried the 32-20 when I first brought it home and it did not fit. Will double check.
I might find a set of k frame grips
this weekend.


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Old 08-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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If this is a gunsmith school project, remind me to avoid its graduates!
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:13 PM
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Checked tonight
The short is 32 S&W Long
Med is 32 h&r Mag
Long is 32-20
Pics show how good they fit in the cylinder.
That's as far in the cylinder as they will go. It confirms its a 32 S&W Long



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Old 08-19-2017, 04:42 PM
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Welcome to the world of 32's! As I said - cheap to reload and fun to shoot. 32 long components are easy to find. If the gun is eventually found to be accurate 32 H&R will do a job as a varmint round. If not accurate with longs I would not expect it to magically become accurate when rechambered to magnum.

Since te barrel pedigree is unknown I would try as many lead and jacketed loads as possible. I'd even try 32 ACP bullets and 32 caliber round balls. Something might work really well. Best case is if you can buy a few bullets from a buddy versus purchasing 100's of every type.

Last edited by Pondoro; 08-19-2017 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 08-25-2017, 05:35 PM
Jetman22 Jetman22 is offline
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Well
I finally put a set of grips on ole Franky. What do you guys think?



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Old 08-26-2017, 07:22 PM
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Yes! Shoot it and please report! As a somewhat crazed collector of 32's I (at least) am interested.

Last edited by Pondoro; 08-26-2017 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 08-26-2017, 08:11 PM
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Yes! Shoot it and please report! As a somewhat crazed collector of 32's I (at least) am interested.
Me too! Me too! I shouldn't have to mention that I (at least) am interested too in anything 32 related.

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Old 08-26-2017, 09:00 PM
NotApplicable NotApplicable is offline
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One thing i notice on this gun is that there appears to be no locking lug on the barrel for the ejector rod. Also doesn't appear to be one on the end of the barrel or in the frame near the yoke.
I'm not a gunsmith, but I'm thinking you may not want to convert to H&R magnum with only the rear lockup.



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Old 08-26-2017, 09:01 PM
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I do really dig the gun, though. I like 32s and i like guns people customize.


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Old 08-26-2017, 09:44 PM
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Well
I finally put a set of grips on ole Franky. What do you guys think?



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Well, those are smooth walnut stocks from a Victory Model, so you are one step closer to original configuration .

Can you post a photo of the rear cylinder face and charge holes? Wondering if it was sleeved down from .38, bored out from .22 or an original .32 cylinder.
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:00 PM
Dale53 Dale53 is offline
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I'm getting on board here rather late. However, I, TOO, am a .32 fan. If the gun shoots, then it would be simple to have it bead blasted and either Industrial Hard Chrome or Electroless Nickel finish would make the piece attractive and would hold up forever!

Of course, before I had it refinished, I would make certain that all of the mechanical woes are corrected. Then have it refinished and "shoot the stink" out of it! That could end up being an absolute treasure at the range and in the field.

The .32's can make superb small game revolvers.

Dale53

Last edited by Dale53; 09-01-2017 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 08-30-2017, 02:48 PM
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Here's the cylinder Murphydog



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Old 08-30-2017, 06:37 PM
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Yep, clearly reamed to 32. The cyl serial # is half gone. Likely from a four digit K22 cyl.
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