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Old 08-10-2017, 11:46 PM
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Default S&W 1937 Brazilian Contract - Hair Trigger

Greetings all -- this is my first post. Happy to be aboard!

Anyway, just picked up this revolver, and like the tile says -- it has a hair trigger.

I took it to the range knowing the trigger was "twitchy," but felt that I could still shoot it safely. The revolver shot like a champ! A ragged hole at 7 yards was not that hard to do... but the trigger is definitely a problem. DA works fine, but in SA the hammer will sometimes drop unexpectedly, resulting in the firing pin not striking the primer. Not a good feeling.

I also noticed the hammer has "push off." I'm told that is a result of a worn sear?

Any help or suggestions on how to fix the trigger would be greatly appreciated.

Here are pics of the revolver. I removed the side plate so the internals are exposed.












Last edited by Frequent Flyer; 08-10-2017 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:06 AM
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It probably is a worn or damaged sear engagement. Most gunsmiths familiar with S&Ws should be able to correct it.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:41 AM
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Am I seeing a gap at the rear of the hammer stud---as if the hole was worn/damaged (which seems highly unlikely)? Continuing with my highly overactive imagination, were that to be the case, then the slightest movement of the hammer (to the rear) spells hair trigger---or even BANG. And if my mental picture is even close, then any effort to "push off" is going to make the hammer "want" to revolve about a point somewhere in the front half of the hole (I think)---resulting in some rearward movement----if there's anywhere for it to move---and another BANG.

I apologize if all this is as clear as mud. I know what I want to say. Whether or not I'm saying it (or even thinking about it) in a way that makes any sense is another matter altogether. With any luck, the hole is perfectly round, and all this bovine excretion is just that!!

Ralph Tremaine

Last edited by rct269; 08-11-2017 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:40 AM
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See this gunsmithing FAQ thread:

FAQ

It's a single huge post covering numerous topics, so do a search on page for "push off." You will find the section you want about one-third way down the page. I have used this technique to fix touchy actions on a few old revolvers over the years.
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:00 AM
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Welcome to the forum , that is a nice old revolver and definitely worth the trouble of repairing. Let us know how it goes ,good luck
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:50 AM
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Thanks to all for their input.

DCWilson, thank you for the thread link.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rct269 View Post
Am I seeing a gap at the rear of the hammer stud---as if the hole was worn/damaged (which seems highly unlikely)? Continuing with my highly overactive imagination, were that to be the case, then the slightest movement of the hammer (to the rear) spells hair trigger---or even BANG. And if my mental picture is even close, then any effort to "push off" is going to make the hammer "want" to revolve about a point somewhere in the front half of the hole (I think)---resulting in some rearward movement----if there's anywhere for it to move---and another BANG.

I apologize if all this is as clear as mud. I know what I want to say. Whether or not I'm saying it (or even thinking about it) in a way that makes any sense is another matter altogether. With any luck, the hole is perfectly round, and all this bovine excretion is just that!!

Ralph Tremaine
That was a good thought, but it just looks like that in the picture. The hammer stud hole is not misshapen in any way.

I will be ordering a new hammer and dropping it in at some point.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:00 AM
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What David Wilson said. I too have used this technique to correct "push off" and the hair trigger that you are experiencing. But remember to go slowly. You need the correct tools, described in the FAQ thread. You may not need a new hammer. The case colors on yours would be hard to replicate today, and you should be able to bring the original back to spec. Further, because these original parts are hand fitted, you would be lucky to find one that would just "drop in", without possibly extensive fitting.

I like to have an extra set of sideplate screws to use when performing any operation that may require repeated removal of the sideplate. That way you reduce the wear on the originals (and remember to return them to the holes they came from. The front one is fitted to the crane).

Be sure to use properly fitted screwdrivers to protect the screw head slots.

Oh, yeah..... Welcome to the forum!!!

Best Regards, Les
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Last edited by les.b; 08-13-2017 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:31 AM
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les.b, thanks for the input.

A friend and I trued up the hammer notch with a file. This seems to have stopped unintentional hammer drops, at least while dry firing. I will get it to the range soon, then we shall see if it solved the hair trigger.

If not, the next step will be to stone the trigger.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:57 AM
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Welcome to the Forum.

I hope you and your friend didn't bugger up the notch with your file work. S&W used the case hardening method for a reason and it is all too easy to go past the hardened surface. Hopefully this didn't happen. I did the same thing years ago and had to get another hammer.

If you do swap hammers, it may be necessary to also swap the double action sear from the old hammer to the new one. The DA sear is the spring loaded part that is pinned to the front of the hammer.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:47 AM
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Muley Gil, we didn't bugger up the notch, but we did remove some of the case hardening. We took very little material off. There were already shiny spots where the case hardening was worn through.

I understand you can buy "do-it-yourself" case hardening to fix spots that have worn through but haven't really looked into it.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:10 PM
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From the looks of the gun it has been refinished, which would account for the plum coloring of the cylinder. (Plus very few Brazilians looked this nice, most are beat to heck.) The colors on the hammer and trigger do not look like original case hardening, and may be only cosmetic "case coloring" which gets used these days. At this point it's anybody's guess.

You may need a new hammer and/or trigger or not. Just be wary.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:41 PM
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I took the revolver to the range this morning. Put 50 rounds through it @ 7 yards. It ran flawlessly. SA works like it should, no more false hammer drops. I measured the pull weight. Comes in around 3lbs.

The guy that sold me this revolver bought it from an importer in the '80s. He purchased two 1937 Brazilian Contract revolvers from the importer. The one I now own... and a second one he turned into an "Indiana Jones gun."

He said the revolvers were offered for sale two ways: Shipped in a crate which was select grade. Or shipped in a barrel which was field grade.

I got the one that was shipped in the crate. He said the importer told him it was probably an officer's model, that's why it has almost zero wear. The frame, barrel and cylinder have matching serial numbers.

Pics from the range:


Last edited by Frequent Flyer; 08-14-2017 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 08-15-2017, 04:37 AM
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass!
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Old 08-15-2017, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass!
Thanks, Wiregrassguy!
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