I have an old model 10 no dash with 3 side plate screws and the cylinder stop screw on the front.

I would like to convert it from a 4" to a 2" barrel and was wondering if the short ejector rod is all I would need or if I would also need the other parts of the ejector also.

The rod is all you need. Just make sure you get one with right hand threads.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

Why would you want to do that? Not a facetious question.

So he could have on like the middle one here.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Center pin must be changed/altered as well as the ejector rod.

No speculation as to motives, please.

Just the facts.

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TEAM DNF

The reason why is I got this old model 10 as a project for only $200. It needed a trigger slide spring, and has an incorrect cylinder stop in it.

I already have a pristine 4" model 10- and have a thing for snub noses. I found a nice 2" barrel for $60 and the old pinned barrels aren't too hard to take off and it may not even need the cylinder gap set. I would have less than $300 in the gun which is less than I could pick up a nice 2" model 10 around here for. I even found an aluminum M12 cylinder for $44 which would be kinda interesting.

I may just leave it alone and use it for load development so I don't wear out my pristine model 10. I already have a nice 2" model 15-3 with target sights and a wider target hammer and trigger.

So I will need a shorter center pin also? What about the springs?

Also is there a current serial number search thread?

Not that it cannot be done, nor that you shouldn't do it, but my original comment as to "why" referred to several items. First is the cost. Not only the materials (barrel and extractor components) but also the labor to replace the barrel. Swapping a barrel is usually not as simple a task as might be imagined, and, if you do not own the equipment needed nor have any experience in performing a barrel replacement, is a task best left to a gunsmith who knows how to do it correctly. Second is the effect upon the gun's value. As it will no longer be original after the barrel is changed, any potential future collectible value (assuming that it has any at present) will have vanished. If one simply wants a snubby revolver for carry purposes, the total cost of the conversion plus the present value of the revolver to be converted could easily exceed the cost of buying a good used original snubby, such as a Chiefs Special. In that case, one would be better off selling the 4" revolver and applying the proceeds to buying another gun.

Asking someone, on this forum, why they would want another revolver - in their desired barrel length, seems like a silly question to me. I found a very nice 4-in RB M64 last year. I sold some mags and pocket knives to come up with the money for an as-new 3-in barrel. A couple of months later, I sent the all of the above off to the mothership and they did a great job. I then sold the 4-in barrel here to recover some of my expenses. I have a couple of snub M10's - but I don't have a snub M64. Guess who's looking for another, reasonable, RB M64 ... ??

agentadam - I hope you'll post some photos of you project as you "transform" it. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see them.

I have M & Ps, a CM and a 36 snub and 3". I'd love to have a snub K frame and some day I'll run across one.

Good luck with your project!

Geojelly, SOG has some at $299.
SMITH & WESSON 64 REVOLVER - Smith & Wesson - Handguns - Southern Ohio Gun

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

She is finally finished. I had to order parts twice. It needed a trigger return (slide) spring, and had a 3-screw instead of a 4/5-screw cylinder stop. I also had to shorten the cylinder stop screw. It's not as smooth or as tight as my other model 10 but it is in decent shape.

Model 10 $200
Slide stop $15
Trigger Return spring $10

Total $225

Now I have a 2" barrel and aluminum cylinder coming.

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	10-2.jpg (127.0 KB, 32 views)

Good on ya!
Don't listen to Mr. Knowitall Negativity, it's a great project and an adventure in learning. I'm not sure about the aluminum cylinder though?

The aluminum cylinders where used on early model 12's airweights bought by the US AirForce. They supposedly didn't stand up to extended use and where changed to steel cylinders shortly after.

It came with the shorter ejector rod assembly that I needed at least so I may give it a try with low pressure rounds. It will shave off 3.5oz of weight. There were reports of cylinder cracking with hot GI ammo and you might see some erosion with the lighter 110gr bullets like the Titanium cylinder do.

I got the barrel off without too much trouble. The new 2" barrel screws on to within 1/8 turn from top dead center. Too far off to torque it down without breaking something. I am guessing I will need to trim the contact surface on the barrel until I get to about 1/16th of a turn from top dead center.

Also I will have zero cylinder gap when installed. What is the minimum cylinder gap you can get away with?

Unfortunately the aluminum cylinder wont fit this early model 10 because it is about 1/16th of an inch longer being off a newer model 12/13. Now I have to find a newer model 10-12-15 to fit it too

Also the ejector rod will need to be shortened about half a millimeter because it hits the barrel underlug unless the barrel is about 2 full turn out.

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Sounds to me like you're going to have to shim that Barrel. Somebody like Injunbro needs to come into this.

.004" is min gap.
Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Agent - where, sir, were you able to find a 2-inch barrel? The only ones I've seen have been awful beaters for ridiculous prices...

On ebay for 60 but they usualy go for $80-100+. They weren't sure what model it was for but I knew it was a k-frame because of the flat cut for the crane clearance. It looks re blued or possibly new.

How much force are you using to get it within an 1/8 of a turn?

If your hand tight and you still need an 1/8 it isn't going to tighten up enough. If you applied the same amount as you used to take the other off your going to need to trim the shoulder just a tiny bit. .027 is a complete turn. 1/8 of a turn is only .0035. One thing I can tell you is the torque values to remove and install barrels varies quite a bit. But, if it is I would go over what feels like about 80ft lb. K frames are pretty thin in the yoke cut area.

I like my cylinder gap at .004 to .006. On a defensive gun a bit more is OK. The last thing you need is the cylinder dragging on you bet your life gun.

As pictured is only hand tight. I know i can't torque it the rest of the way as is. I will go for a .004-.006 gap but I just hope I don't have to shave too much off and have to have the forcing cone re-cut. For that added cost it would put me over budget rather than just buying a nice condition snubbie. Might just reinstall the 4" barrel and sell the 2" but I would love to make it work.

I only have $307 in it right now with the extra barrel . I could have the forcing cone re-cut for $25 if need be. I am just wondering why the barrel screws on the frame so far that the ejector rod is nearly 1mm too long.

Now you are beginning to see why many of us discourage non-trained gunsmiths from attempting to change barrels. It just doesn't screw off and install a different one. Many things come in to play. I'd give it to a "qualified" gunsmith and let him get it done. In the long run it is worth it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I finally bit the bullet and fit the 2" barrel because I much prefer it in this configuration. I filed a small amount off of the barrel shoulder with a triangle and small finishing file, checking fit as I went, until the barrel came 1/8th of a turn from lining up.

I then shortened the ejector rod and center pin about 1mm until it fit and re chamfered the inside and outside edge of the tip.

I laid the barrel flat on a piece of 400 grit sand paper on glass and shortened the forcing cone about .004. The forcing cone still looks longer than on my model 10-2.

The cylinder gap is about .003 when the cylinder is pushed forward and about .005 when pushed back so it is good to go.

I wish it took a bit more torque when installing the barrel but the pin should help hold it also. If it ever moved I can just re-install it with a little red loc-tite and and an ovesized pin. Too much torque can cause a tight spot in the forcing cone and degrade accuracy.

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