I recently picked up an older what I believe to be an all steel blued revolver (jrame/ MOD 36 possibly)
It is nearly identical in dimension to my 642 in size and holsters in my Ritchie holster like a glove.

Details
I see five screws 4 on the plate, one on the trigger guard.
Case hardened serrated trigger and hammer.
Fixed front sight.
Rectangular cylinder release with vertical ribs.
Floating firing pin.
Pinned barrel guessing 1 7/8”
Yoke and frame matching number is : 17938
Of note above this number I see a diaganol or cock eyed K
Below this number I see a 5 (note picture)
K
17938
5
Back of cylinder and bottom of frame number is: 42767

Came with cracked and broken rubber Hogue grip which I removed and threw out as it did not even fit the revolver. I noticed Altamont has the following grip, which would fit eh gun, which is closet to the period grips?
https://www.altamontco.com/shared/ph...P11-CK-M03.jpg

I have attached some pictures of the revolver.

The links show broke but when I click them the images come right up.

Welcome to the forum.
Congrats! You have a Baby J frame, ".38 Chiefs Special" Named Model. It's not a Model 36. The next model, the full size New J frame Model of 1953 became the Model 36 in 1957.

#42767 is the serial # and indicates shipment in mid 1954. The #s in the yoke are assembly #s.

I see no link to photos of the gun.

None of the grips at Altamont will fit your gun, They're all for the full size NEW J frame which are 1/8" longer than your grip frame. Try your 642 grips on your gun and it will be evident.

You can find original Baby J frame grips on ebay and Gunbroker.

Please repost the link to photos of your gun.

This is your gun:



This is the NEW full size J frame on the right. Notice the larger trigger guard and 1/8" longer grip:

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Jim

Thank you for solving the mystery!
Would smith be able to get it into proper shootable order? Should I even bother getting it reblued? I was wanting to shoot wad cutters or other tame 38 spl loads through it.

Here are the urls

Viewing image 72boz.jpg
Viewing image VvpBM.jpg
Viewing image fmAOW.jpg

Thank you for your expertise.

Mark

42767 would likely have shipped in early 1954. The frame style changed at about SN 45964, so yours would be called by collectors a "Baby Chief". S&W won't touch it, too early. What's the problem with it other than the grips and finish (which does not seem that bad to me)? It's usually not worth the expense of getting it reblued (which could be done by many others if you have the $$$).

Hi Mark,

You're very welcome, my pleasure.

S&W will no longer work on anything older than 1957.

Is there something wrong with the function?

Once cleaned and lubricated, with a few simple checks you can determine if it’s safe to use; no need to waste time and money on a gunsmith, especially if you don't know one. Open the cylinder and verify the barrel is unobstructed. Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 5 or 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks. If satisfactory, now operate the gun in DA pulling the trigger slowly; again confirm the cyl locks before the hammer drops. After each cycling of the action, confirm that the cyl is still locked in position.

That's in fine condition. By re-finshing it you would only spend money to devalue it.

The # you show in the yoke is the assembly #. It matches in 3 locations on the gun: yoke, yoke cut, and inside the side plate.

You can shoot any full load 38s in it with complete safety for you and the gun; just not +P loads as a regular diet. Unless you want to carry it for defense with +Ps. They won't blow up the gun nor hurt the gun if you had to shoot those 5.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

It cycles through the cylinder and functions fine.
The lock up seems a little sloppy when I compare to my 10 year old 442 but that's to be expected. It points very well and is a nice revolver. I will oil and clean it up some.

Regular or full panel, which do you suggest?

You want Baby J Magna grips like these to be correct for your vintage gun. You can also use Pre Model 1953 I frame grips which are the same size:


Advertise here on this forums classified section.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Thank you for your expertise and knowledge, I have much to learn. So many variants, beats baseball cards

Classified ad created here WTB I frame magna grips for Baby Chief.

I frame grips are the same size from 1896 to 1953 (same as Baby J also).

From 1953 to the present, the NEW I frame and NEW J frame round butt grips are 1/8" longer, the same size, and will interchange.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

You want pre 1953 Baby J Magnas/pre 1953 I frame Magnas.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819