RM #908 shipped to Harkley & Haywood in Vancouver, BC 16 March 1936.

This gun was well used, it didn't lay in a drawer for its life. As Teddy Roosevelt said, it was "In the Arena....marred by dust and sweat and blood....its place shall never be with those cold and timid souls...."

The factory letter would have been the end of it, but S&WHF had documents showing it was ordered by Ole Rollag and picked up when he was in town. Still doing research on him. He managed to break a mainspring and ordered 2 replacements while in Prince Rupert, BC. In his 1938 letter returning the broken MS, he references it as having been Registered by O. Rollag of Fort St. James, BC and otherwise had given him outstanding service. During the cold winters, he must have read McGivern's book and tried blacksmithing his own improvements. He made his own sight adjustment lever which moved zero from 50 to 150yds. A homemade "cockeyed" hammer, trigger stop, and firing pin. He drilled and tapped rib for mounting of scope. Drilled and tapped hole in frame butt which I think served as a mounting point for some kind of folding shoulder stock. On forward side of trigger guard, something made lots of contact, and a groove is cut on inside of guard, like a catch.

It took Jim Stroh cutting 2 threads off to correct forcing cone erosion and he fixed mechanical issues. It shoots good and I've taken a deer and turkey with it. (still in the arena )

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PTLAPTA!

This was my first Reg Mag, it met my requirements at the time. Cheap and I could play with it! Pic with scope is from McGivern's book, "Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting" Hope you enjoy

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	SW908arena.jpg (159.7 KB, 151 views)

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PTLAPTA!

Some times a tool that was used is more interesting than something that was locked away and never put to use. It's knowing the history that makes the difference.

Looks like a beaver has been chewing on the hammer!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

What did he do to get it to have the correct barrel cylinder gap? Did he also set back/shave off some of the barrel that sits flush with the front of the frame, which would shorten the extractor rod housing, and if so, how does the ejector rod fit in the shroud - isn't it too long? The reason that I ask is that I have an "extra" RM barrel that has a forcing cone that looks exactly like your before photo...

BTW - great, great gun with some way cool modifications!

Thanks for sharing,

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Richard
Engraved S&W fan

In order to set the barrel back material is cut from the barrels rear shoulder. The frame actually has a small amount of free bore with no threads, on the front portion of the barrel mounting hole that allows this. It takes .0278 of material removal to make one turn at 36 to the inch threads. The slot for the barrel pin must also be widened for the set back so pin can go back in. Then, once the barrel is remounted there is a tool that goes down the barrel and a cutter is attached that faces off the barrel extension. A trim and try trim and try till its right. I also, have done this with the barrel still in a lathe using a dial indicator, plus screwing the frame on hand tight. If frame is 90 degrees out from tight you need a gap of .013 to come out at .06 when tight in alignment. I prefer to fit it a bit tight and then with a piece of thin steel between frame and barrel extension to protect the frame finish, use a fine file that is safed (teeth ground off) on the edges. Keep the file dead flat and carefully take it to final fit and end up with a very smooth finish. Then there is another tool that goes down the barrel and a forcing cone cutter is attached and forcing cone cut. You can get cutters with different angles I use 11 degrees. There are gauges for the various calibers to check the depth of cut, then a brass lap goes on the tool to lap the forcing cone smooth. Then the end of the ejector rod and center bin must be trimmed to correct them to function, as moving barrel back moves locking lug assy back. Never done a Triple lock, but you would also have to adjust the pin assy for the 3rd lock. Time consuming and a lot of trim and check steps. Plus, setting the barrel up to trim it in a lathe is time consuming. I use small brass shims to protect the finish and a 4 jaw chuck. They do make a special tool that mounts on the barrel that will trim the shoulder though.

Not that impressed by the non slip hammer modification. It does look kinda chewed. LOL. The what I assume is an quick sight adjustment attachment is interesting. Must have been owned by a serious long range shooter. I have though of using a patridge sight with a series of marked bands on it, or a setup to move elevation of front sight, but never a rear sight mover.

While we might well look at some of this stuff and regret that guys messed up some nice guns doing this stuff, without people willing to experiment we would still be using clubs. If Rollin White had not decide to take some Colt percussion cylinders and cut them up we might all still be putting on percussion caps after we loaded the powder and rammed in the ball.

Steelslaver got it right ,these guys were on the cutting edge of pushing the envelope of handgun performance .Its nice to see an old revolver in NIB condition with papers ect but these well used guns have their own value in the stories of the men who owned carried and used them .So hats off to you guys who love the guns that have been " in the arena" .

Steelslaver covered it pretty well.(Thanks) It wasn't a fix I would try myself. Jim Stroh is a member of American Pistolsmith Guild, and Pistolsmith of the year 1996. He has been retired for a number of years. Very talented Gunsmith, its getting harder to find a good revolversmith.

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PTLAPTA!

Didn't think about that possibility. A beaver that can run a torch and file might be really dangerous! LOL Fort St. James (where he Registered his magnum under O. Rollag) was a main fur trading hub of Hudson Bay Company until it closed in 1952. Maybe a fur buyer, trapper, bush pilot?

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PTLAPTA!

I have it zeroed with Fed Am Eagle 158gr JSP at 50 yards with sight down. Flip lever it is spot on at 150 yards. King sight made an "Elmer Keith" longrange blade. Thanks for the barrel explanation, I was going to say "The Elves did it!"

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PTLAPTA!

You gotta know I'm liken this'n, for sure.


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"IN GOD WE TRUST"

Is the photo above (of the long range front sight) that of the King version, or-----------------????

Many thanks!

Ralph Tremaine

If anyone wants a modified hammer like this one, let me know. It looks exactly like the one I did 45 years ago on a bobbed mod 60 hammer. I love the rear sight mod. A neat and fun gun Steve, i know you enjoy having it.

Charlie

I believe it is the King version. I stole the pic from someone on the forum

The front blade shown below is another homemade version made by cutting blade, then soldering silver and bronze pieces on top to match elevation holds. I got to shoot this one.

UPDATE-Found my notes. Top of sight zeroed for 75yds, holding bottom of bronze bar is 200 (+.030"), holding bottom of silver bar is 400 (+.090"), and holding bottom of entire blade is 600 (+.100") Total height of front blade is .220" above base. Calculations based on 158grLSWC, 1200fps, BC .121, I think, LOL!

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PTLAPTA!

Here are two more ways to skin a cat. Either replacing rear blade with different heights (Offered by King and S&W) or another version of modified front sight.

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	S&W500yd.jpg (76.1 KB, 23 views)
	S&WKeithLR.jpg (47.6 KB, 25 views)

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PTLAPTA!