Hello! Here's the Data and Pics: No Model # behind Yoke; Hand Ejector; SN on Butt 3-68157; CTG 38SP; Barrel 4"; Fixed Sights; Strain Screw in the front Gripstrap; 5 Screws (#1 screw under grip). Any info appreciated. Thanks!

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Welcome to the Forum.

You have a .38 Military & Police. It was built before mid 1922

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

You probably mean that the SN is 368157 (it should also be stamped on a flat on the bottom of the barrel and the rear face of the cylinder). I can't tell for sure if the plating is original. The plastic grips definitely are not. The SN indicates that your M&P probably shipped around early 1921. Is there the letter "B" stamped ahead of the SN on the barrel flat? Remove the grips and see if there is anything stamped on the grip frame. Shoot it all you want.

Thanks Muley Gil! In reply to your questions DWalt: I stand corrected on SN. There is no "dash" in it. I removed grips. Grip frame only has a small stamped, "98" on the frame. Serial number on Barrel flat has no letter "B" nor the Rear Face of the cylinder. Thanks to you as well!

Welcome to the FORUM! Should make for a decent shooter! I personally would stick with standard velocity loads. No reason not to shoot it though. I had 1 from 1919, that went to the range when I had it. It is in my son's now. Bob

So the gun did leave the factory originally nickeled. However, that does not assure the originality of THIS finish. Neither the hammer nor the trigger appear to be case-colored as they were originally, so that casts doubt on the overall finish also.

Period correct stocks or reproductions can be found on GunBroker and Ebay. Very nice M&P indeed!

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Fred
S&WCA 3238

If you are not so concerned about originality, the grips on it are fine for shooting. While the correct type of checkered wood grips used during the 1920s do show up on eBay frequently, those in high condition are a little difficult to find and might set you back $100 or more. The previously mentioned concern about the finish of the hammer and trigger is what I was referring to when I stated I didn't know if the nickel finish was correct and original. I'd also agree that it was originally plated, but it is possible that it may have been re-plated outside the factory. If you plan to keep it and shoot it, I wouldn't worry about such things. Any idea what the engraved initials mean?

Thanks all for the information! Great help. I do plan to replace the grips as I find these plastic "ivory" grips cheesy, IMO. I assume I'd be looking for Grips for a "J" Frame, Square Butt. Will look for Repro's of Rubber, etc. I'm just interested in shooting it. These plastic grips remind me of my 6-shooter Roy Rogers Cap Pistol when I was a kid. lol. To DWalt: The initials on frame are a mystery.

It's a "K-frame" not a "J".

Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

Yes, K-frame square butt. Most any pair of K-frame grips will fit. There are many varieties to be seen on eBay.

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! I recommend target grips that cover the grip frame. I find them better for target shooting than the round top service grips or magnas. Alternately, you could put some real elkhorn grips on it for show and put Pachmayr or Hogue rubber grips on it for shooting. Hang around. We'll help you spend your money.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

For shooting I greatly prefer the Hogue rubber grips to everything else. Many here like to ridicule them.

That sure is a pretty revolver. The closest I have to yours is an M&P 5" barrel which shipped in 1924; s/n 453xxx.

I am still waiting to take possession of it. I think the stocks are original but won't know till I get the gun.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065