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10-17-2017, 08:34 PM
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Terrier 38 S&W new to me
Hello
I been wanting one since I sold the last one
Reblue and a cracked grip, they number to gun and missing medallion.
Pretty good lockup but one cylinder has a small amount of play, not enough to shave lead. I must look into that. Excellent trigger.
66,2XX google tells me shipped around 51 or 52?
I am satisfied for $295 out the door.
Now to find some grips as one is real bad and real worn. Can someone tell me what other guns grips will fit please. I know I frame round butt but I don't know much more.
Regards
Mike
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10-17-2017, 09:12 PM
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Good price for a nice little shooter grade revolver. 1952 sounds right to me.
I-frame round butt pretty much covers it. If you want a bigger grip, J-frame target stocks would cover the frame and give you a little bit more wood below the butt.
This gun has the coil mainspring, which makes it a modified I-frame. I always forget whether that makes the grip frame a bit shorter or a bit longer than the prewar and immediate postwar I-frames. Hondo44 should be along in a moment, and he will inform both of us.
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10-17-2017, 09:47 PM
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Nice buy. I'd love to have one of those little buggers.
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Oh well, what the hell.
Last edited by shouldazagged; 11-30-2017 at 10:34 PM.
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10-17-2017, 10:39 PM
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OK, I'm interested in the leaf spring I-frames, so I'm not as knowledgeable as I should be, but I think the first round butt coil spring "Improved" I-frames, along with the first ("Baby") Chief Specials had the same grip frame size as the round butt leaf spring variants.
Froggie
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10-18-2017, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardknocks
Hello
I been wanting one since I sold the last one
Reblue and a cracked grip, they number to gun and missing medallion.
Pretty good lockup but one cylinder has a small amount of play, not enough to shave lead. I must look into that. Excellent trigger.
66,2XX google tells me shipped around 51 or 52?
I am satisfied for $295 out the door.
Now to find some grips as one is real bad and real worn. Can someone tell me what other guns grips will fit please. I know I frame round butt but I don't know much more.
Regards
Mike
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CHARACTER - Yeah, that's what it has, character!
I kinda like the grips that are on it.
Last edited by KEN L; 10-18-2017 at 12:18 AM.
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10-18-2017, 01:38 AM
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That gun is cool! I like old guns that aren't pristine because they're affordable and shootable! I have a model 33 which is similar to yours but was called the Regulation Police and commonly had a 4" barrel. It's a wonderful gun. I have safely been shooting the Buffalo Bore loads out of mine, but mine is the improved I frame from the late 50's and yours is the original I frame, so you should check that the gun is solid before trying it. One day I'll find a Terrier.
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10-18-2017, 03:03 AM
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Terrier 38 S&W new to me
That is a really good price on a neat little gun.....here are the two I picked up a couple of weeks ago, in the box with very little evidence of use. Mine are in the 115xxx serial number range with the updated thumb latch and elimination of the diamond on the stocks puts these right around 1968, maybe earlier but you can never tell. I paid basically market rate for these, 400 a piece.
Here is one of the j frame 32-1s next to my model 37 flat latch.
Last edited by moralem; 10-18-2017 at 03:07 AM.
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10-18-2017, 04:11 AM
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Hardknocks,
Nice find. You have an Improved I frame - 1st version with round sight which is a pre 1953 model and highly likely shipped in May-June 1952.
I and J frames’ stocks are the same size for the same vintage.
There are two I frame and two J frame Rd Butt Magna grip sizes:
3 1/16” tall - pre 1953 I and J frames
Up to 1953, Pre war I, post war I, and Improved I grip frames (inc. Single Shots), and the Baby J grip frame are the same size and interchangeable.
3 3/16” tall - Model 1953 and later NEW I and NEW J frames
The Model of 1953 New I frame and New J frame grip frames are also the same size, both an 1/8” longer than pre 1953 I and J grip frames.
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S&WCA #819
Last edited by Hondo44; 10-18-2017 at 04:15 AM.
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10-18-2017, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim NNN
I have safely been shooting the Buffalo Bore loads out of mine, but mine is the improved I frame from the late 50's and yours is the original I frame, so you should check that the gun is solid before trying it. One day I'll find a Terrier.
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Jim,
Your post Models of 1953 until Jan 1961 are New I frames built on a new and different frame forging with larger trigger guards and 1/8" longer grip frames than the Improved Model I frames.
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S&WCA #819
Last edited by Hondo44; 10-18-2017 at 01:07 PM.
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10-18-2017, 04:46 AM
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Nice find! After Jim makes his appearance here isn't much more to say about the gun, but there are vendors here on the Forum that would be happy to repair the left stock panel for you. Enjoy!
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SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220
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10-18-2017, 06:57 AM
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Nice gun especially for that price ,enjoy.
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10-18-2017, 07:34 AM
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Nice guns, Mike and Moralem! Eventually, I'll have to get one of those Terriers.
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SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629
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10-18-2017, 07:50 AM
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Terrier
Hello
I will consider the grip repair thanks for that info.
Someone I know has a pair of real stags in top condition I'm thinking about. And a pair of M.O.P grips in V.G.C.
Now does this year model have the forged frame?
I wouldn't mind toting this piece if I could run a couple cylinders of buffalo bore through it safely the gun is not loose at all.
I have a 1929 police positive 4 inch barrel in 38 s&w but I only used the normal loads.
I recently bought a single stage RCBS but haven't
Got it up and running yet, need to make that happen.
Thanks for all the replies.
Mike
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10-18-2017, 01:07 PM
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Hi Mike,
Your frame is also forged. All S&W hand ejector frames are forged since their introduction in 1896.
I re-worded my post above to read, "a new and different frame forging" for clarity. Sorry about the confusion.
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S&WCA #819
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10-18-2017, 03:18 PM
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Here are 3 Terriers. I looked long and hard to find the service
grips on the top one. Top and bottom are leaf springs middle on has the coil spring.
top 57210 1of 10 shipped to Albuquerque Oct 1950
Middle 63663 shipped to U.S. Post Office Washington D.C. October 1951
Bottom 56847 Shipped to New York City P.D. September 1950 1 of 100 in shipment
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10-18-2017, 04:19 PM
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Here's three I owned, that I sadly had to move on to purchase other guns. Top is prewar and bottom two postwar.
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10-18-2017, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyman
Here are 3 Terriers. I looked long and hard to find the service
grips on the top one. Top and bottom are leaf springs middle on has the coil spring.
top 57210 1of 10 shipped to Albuquerque Oct 1950
Middle 63663 shipped to U.S. Post Office Washington D.C. October 1951
Bottom 56847 Shipped to New York City P.D. September 1950 1 of 100 in shipment
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I like the grips on the top photo.
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10-18-2017, 06:06 PM
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My one and only pre-war Terrier:
And an early post-war one that was carried a ton, and has the beautiful two tone configuration that only comes with slipping it in and out of a holster thousands of times...
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Engraved S&W fan
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10-18-2017, 06:19 PM
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Richard,
Two beauties!
Almost matching guns except the bottom Post War Transitional has the sliding bar safety, or does it?
I guess you're looking for a left side post war stock or is that original?
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S&WCA #819
Last edited by Hondo44; 10-18-2017 at 06:46 PM.
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10-18-2017, 06:24 PM
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Here's my two:
Top one shipped April 1952, bottom one September 1954.
Best Regards, Les
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10-18-2017, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les.b
Here's my two:
Top one shipped April 1952, bottom one September 1954.
Best Regards, Les
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Les,
That's a great pair of Improved I frames, 1st and 2nd versions!
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Jim
S&WCA #819
Last edited by Hondo44; 10-18-2017 at 06:52 PM.
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10-18-2017, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
...Almost matching guns except the bottom Post War Transitional has the sliding bar safety, or does it?
I guess you're looking for a left side post war stock or is that original?
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If I recall correctly, both sets of stocks number to the respective guns. I believe that you are correct that the post war one has the sliding bar safety. The numbers are: 53558 (Aug 1939) for the pre-war one and 56044 (Sept 1950) for the post war one... Here are the other sides...
Pre-war:
Post-war:
Thanks,
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Last edited by RKmesa; 10-18-2017 at 08:37 PM.
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10-18-2017, 09:02 PM
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One gun I'd plunk cash down in a second to acquire is a .38 S&W I frame snubbie.
Nice score!
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10-18-2017, 11:02 PM
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I slathered it with clp I will clean it up in a week or so.
Thanks for all the pics.
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10-19-2017, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44
Jim,
Your post Models of 1953 until Jan 1961 are New I frames built on a new and different frame forging with larger trigger guards and 1/8" longer grip frames than the Improved Model I frames.
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Wow, thanks Jim! I didn't know that. So, just to be clear, are you saying my 59 or 60-ish model 33 is not an Improved I frame? Is it something in between the original I frames and Improved I frames?
I always thought the Improved I frame came after the first I frames. It's obviously more complicated than that. Thanks in advance for the clarification.
Last edited by Jim NNN; 10-19-2017 at 12:41 AM.
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10-19-2017, 02:07 AM
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Hi Jim,
1. Correct.
2. No.
3. The Improved I frame which only replaced the leaf spring with a coil spring came after the original I frame, and ended production in 1952. The Model of 1953 New I frame came after that; both the I and J frames had new frame forgings in 1953 with the enlarged trigger guard and 1/8" longer round butt grip frame. Compare the Improved models directly above with your guns or the top photo in post #7.
It's been confused in the SCSW for many years. In the 4th edition on pg 144 and here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/blog.php?b=103
I have clarified it.
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S&WCA #819
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10-19-2017, 02:05 PM
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Wow. It's great gaining new knowledge about old guns! Thanks again Jim for the clarification and that link to your astounding article. I didn't have time to read the article all the way through (there's a lot of info there) but I will soon.
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10-22-2017, 08:16 PM
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Serial numbers
The serial number is on
Bottom of barrel
Bottom of grip
Rear of cylinder
662XX all matching.
Three more locations are numbered.
On the crane
On frame where crane closes
Bottom side of extractor
36740 all matching.
Is this assembly numbers?
Also which member repairs grips? One is cracked pretty much in half
Thank you again for all the info and pics.
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10-23-2017, 12:35 AM
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Yes assembly #s:
ASSEMBLY (factory work) #s: These multi-digit numbers of 3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke at the hinge, in the ‘yoke cut’ on frame (accompanied with a stamped inspector letter) opposite the yoke above the hinge, and inside of the sideplate, for the pre war and early post war period. Once the gun is shipped, the only use for the assembly #s is to confirm the three parts it's stamped on are original. They will have various inspector letters stamped with them.
In 1957 the assembly # in the yoke cut of the frame was relocated to the left side of grip frame after model #s were assigned and the serial # was eventually added in the ‘yoke cut’ where the assembly #, now moved to the left side of the grip frame, used to be. You know they are assembly (factory work) #s because of those 3 locations that always match on guns that are original, and that’s the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory; still used to this day, long after serial number locations decreased.
SERIAL # LOCATIONS: To confirm all parts are original, one can check for the 6 (or 7, on Triple Locks only) matching serial # locations for fixed sight pre war Hand Ejectors and all post war Hand Ejectors thru ~1956 (and a few as much as 3 years later).
NOTE: Observing serial #s for accuracy or even existence, especially on penciled stocks, requires magnification, bright light, and an attitude that it is there!
1. Gun butt – (or fore strap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt)
2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud
3. Yoke - on rear face only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
4. Extractor star - backside
5. Cylinder - rear face
6. Right stock only - on back, except most target stocks; stamped, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material. (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)
7. Triple Locks only: rear side of middle lock cam plate
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S&WCA #819
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10-23-2017, 01:21 AM
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Way back in the day, our company used to do the payroll in cash. A bunch of us were in the elevator and there happened to be the two paymasters with small suitcases full of payroll stubs and cash. One of the dummies stupidly said out loud lets take these two guys and all the money. Before the last part of the money word was uttered two S&W snubbies were now staring him in the face. When we reached the next floor where business was done he was the last guy they let out of the elevator. And as the rest of us couldn't get out of the elevator car fast enough. So every time I see a thread such as that one the above story comes to mind. thanks for the memory. Frank
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10-23-2017, 08:32 AM
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Wow
Thanks again Jim.
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10-25-2017, 08:16 PM
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Tyler T grip
Hi all
Has anyone fitted a tyler t grip or simular to this frame?
Their website says #3 grip for j frame before 1955 which I don't understand I thought the baby j frame ended before 1955?
Regards
Mike
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10-25-2017, 08:22 PM
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The number 3 is for the square butt "K" frame. You want the number 2. I have used them on the Terriers (early) and other "I" frames. The number 1 is for the post 1955 "J" frames.
Here is the Tyler T Grip #2 fitted to an "I" frame .32 Hand Ejector....
Here is another Tyler T #2 on a much older .32 Hand Ejector...an "I" frame, you can see that it fits perfectly. This is the size you need...
By the way, of all my little snub noses, I like the feel of the I frame with the Tyler T Grip. It fits my hand perfectly.
Best Regards, Les
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Last edited by les.b; 10-25-2017 at 08:35 PM.
Reason: Add photo
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10-25-2017, 08:24 PM
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You're correct. Ended with the Model of 1953.
But get the pre 1955 #3 and it should be correct.
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S&WCA #819
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11-11-2017, 05:22 PM
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Found some stags
Not the best fit but it works for me, and thicker grips make for a better feel
.
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11-30-2017, 02:34 PM
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New pic
Bobbed hammer.
Next is the tyler grip.
Last edited by hardknocks; 11-30-2017 at 02:35 PM.
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11-30-2017, 02:38 PM
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You did good. I don't have an early one like that. Mine is 1970, but I got in cheap two weeks ago. . .$250. I was delighted to find it.
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11-30-2017, 06:42 PM
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Right place right time
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocB
You did good. I don't have an early one like that. Mine is 1970, but I got in cheap two weeks ago. . .$250. I was delighted to find it.
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250 is nice. Very nice condition.
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11-30-2017, 07:49 PM
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The stocks can be repaired and if original to the gun should stay with it. I would rather have original stocks that have had work done to them than pristine replacements. Just MHO.
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James Redfield
LM #497
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12-03-2017, 03:43 PM
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Repair
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR III
The stocks can be repaired and if original to the gun should stay with it. I would rather have original stocks that have had work done to them than pristine replacements. Just MHO.
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I hear a member on the forum does grip repair, I have to seek him out. I think his name is Dwfan.
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01-01-2018, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South Florida
Posts: 797
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#7 tyler t
Tried the tyler #7 from my early police positive just for kicks.
Fits pretty good, but I will get the correct one soon.
Take a look.
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01-03-2018, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 824
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If you want it for protection... Buffalo Bore makes ammo just for such gun!
__________________
Deaf
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01-04-2018, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South Florida
Posts: 797
Likes: 416
Liked 851 Times in 250 Posts
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Buffalo bore
Yes
I have it loaded with buffalo bore.
Thanks
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01-07-2018, 11:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Spring, Tx
Posts: 160
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Terriers are neat little guns, aren't they? Found a pre war Terrier, then lucked across another. So I've got twins.
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