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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 05-14-2018, 03:00 PM
billmccoy billmccoy is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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Default 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question

I was given this, and trying to narrow down it's ID. I know it is a flat latch 32 S&W Long, but confused on exact model. The firing pin (hammer nose) came out, and I need to find a nose rivet. Some schematics of the 30/31 show a hammer nose spring, and others do not. Not sure what I need. 32.jpg

32a.jpg

32b.jpgSerial # 6201##. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by billmccoy; 05-14-2018 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 05-14-2018, 03:37 PM
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The closest SN on my list is 6217xx which shipped in 12/55. It would not have a model number at that time, was just called the .32 Hand Ejector (I-frame). When the I-frame was changed to the J-frame in 1961, it became the Model 30-1. Looks like the trigger guard has been bent. I don't know about whether a spring for the firing pin is needed. But I doubt it. Others will know.

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Old 05-14-2018, 04:19 PM
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It's a Model of 1953 New I frame. The vintage is as DWalt posted.

The trigger guard is indeed bent but easy to fix with a padded hammer and padded piece of pipe used as a 'dolly' like in auto body work.
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Old 05-14-2018, 04:48 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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My .32s of the same vintage as yours do not have hammer nose (firing pin) springs. You'll need a factory hammer nose rivet to re-install the pin.
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:02 PM
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Welcome to the Forum.

If you feel up to replacing the rivet yourself, let me know & I'll post instructions. It's not a hard job at all.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:12 PM
billmccoy billmccoy is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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Thanks to everyone for your quick replies. If I understand correctly, instead of a specific model number, this is just referred to as a "32 hand ejector" of an approximate 1955 vintage, and does not need a nose spring, only the rivet. Numrich does not list one as available for this model, but does have them for some of the 30/31 and other models. Any idea of what model rivet I might substitute in place of this? I would also appreciate the tips offered on installation.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmccoy View Post
Thanks to everyone for your quick replies. If I understand correctly, instead of a specific model number, this is just referred to as a "32 hand ejector" of an approximate 1955 vintage, and does not need a nose spring, only the rivet. Numrich does not list one as available for this model, but does have them for some of the 30/31 and other models. Any idea of what model rivet I might substitute in place of this? I would also appreciate the tips offered on installation.
A Model 30 or 31 rivet should work just fine.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:43 PM
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At one time or other I have done about everything regarding gun repairs. But replacing a firing pin rivet is something I have never needed to do. I would assume all S&W rivets are the same, no matter what the model. But are they?
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:18 AM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
At one time or other I have done about everything regarding gun repairs. But replacing a firing pin rivet is something I have never needed to do. I would assume all S&W rivets are the same, no matter what the model. But are they?
The earliest M&Ps had solid rivets. I THINK the I/J rivets are a little smaller. I'll try and check tomorrow.
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Last edited by Muley Gil; 05-15-2018 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmccoy View Post
Thanks to everyone for your quick replies. If I understand correctly, instead of a specific model number, this is just referred to as a "32 hand ejector" of an approximate 1955 vintage, and does not need a nose spring, only the rivet. Numrich does not list one as available for this model, but does have them for some of the 30/31 and other models. Any idea of what model rivet I might substitute in place of this? I would also appreciate the tips offered on installation.
Before the specific Models #s, Smiths have specific Model names; which is ".32 Hand Ejector" for yours.

You will need an I or J frame rivet; other frames size rivets will be too long, because the larger frame hammers are wider, but of course rivets can be shortened; diameters are the same if my caliper doesn't lie. So for the correct length, look for a Model 30, 31, 32, 33, or 36 or their dash # counterparts.

Here's what Brownells shows:
Hammer Nose Rivet at Brownells

There may be a rivet setting tool, but Brownells does not list one.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 05-15-2018 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:20 AM
billmccoy billmccoy is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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I ordered a couple of rivets from Gun Parts ( mod.31-1) and will see what I get. Muley Gill, it sound like you have installed these before- any instructions/pointers on installation would be appreciated. I have hammer peened rivets on other equipment, but never on a gun-should it be a tight fit, or leave it a little loose? Thanks Again.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:39 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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They rivet must be tight so it has no opportunity to move sideways! If it does, it'll make nasty dents on the edge of the hammer channel.

The one time I had to set the rivet I used a center punch I ground to do the job.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:24 PM
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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I'd think that the hammer should be removed for that job.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:23 PM
billmccoy billmccoy is offline
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30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question 30/31/32 ejector ID and hammer nose spring question  
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I found a very good video by gunsmith Ken Brooks on installing the rivet - just what I needed. This is the link :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fZsIEhhpV0[/url] if anyone is interested. Thanks again to all of you for your replies and help. This forum and its members are invaluable for anyone interested in these old guns. Best Regards to all.

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Old 05-15-2018, 09:49 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
They rivet must be tight so it has no opportunity to move sideways! If it does, it'll make nasty dents on the edge of the hammer channel.

Correct. Tight enough not to wobble, but still move up and down.

The one time I had to set the rivet I used a center punch I ground to do the job.

I removed the hammer and laid in on the anvil part of my bench vise. I used a standard center punch and would tap a little bit, flip the hammer over and tap on the other side of the rivet, alternating until it was finished.
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