Anybody have any insights, or suggestions, for repairing a MOP grip panel from a model of 1899 ? A piece of the ear is broken off .

Thanks, Mike Priwer

Do you have the detached piece and if so, does it mate perfectly (seamlessly) back into place? Any pics?

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Jeb

Mike: Somewhere on one of the forums, within the last year or two someone (a dentist I think) described how they repaired some using the kind of media they crowns with, ( I think). Any way he showed some he repaired and it didn't look bad at all.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Hi Mike,

That's a tough one to match and not show a seam.

For a permanent repair you'll need a larger piece of MOP than what's missing, and as close of a shade of pearl as possible. Just butting up a piece to form a joint, does not provide enough surface for a strong joint.

The grip should be undercut at an angle starting at the break line back under the grip for about a 1/4". The replacement piece is cut at the same angle and extends under the grip to provide a large joint surface to glue. The two surfaces must be absolutely flat.

Crazy glue is a good bonding agent with a low visibility joint by making a gap-less joint, because the glue will not fill gaps. This is also what makes the joint as invisible as possible. Once glued the joint is dressed down flush top and bottom and polished.

The replacement piece of pearl should be oriented to match the direction of the translucence before cutting and gluing.

That's how I do it and I hope that helps. I only do my own and don't know of anyone that repairs MOP but I suspect there must be some.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Google UV cured dental composite or check out YouTube.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

I use super glue and actual pearl dust if the missing piece is not too big. A layer of super glue is put on, and while it is wet sand a piece of pearl over the wet superglue allowing it to fill the spot. This may require several layers but will make a good repair. For larger repairs Jim is correct splicing a piece on is the way to go.

Mike, are they original medallion pearls? If you do not have any extra pearl stocks for pieces, I have a damaged set of I frame pearls that you can use to harvest a piece from if you do not have any material to work with.

I have never worked with MOP, but know it is bad stuff to enhale. Good luck with the repair.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I recall someone posting about nearly the same problem on www.knifeauctions.net about 15 years ago. Only difference was it was on the scales of a knife. I do remember they asked their dentist for the name and number of his dental lab and that they posted before and after pictures and the repair looked better than very good.


Just looked it up, www.knifeauctions.net is now gone from the WWW.


Class III

I had good luck with a product called Bondic, or similar products that stay in gel form until you use UV lighting to dry it. I put a drop in the chip, and then used a white powder that I got from a Nail equipment place. It’s used to color nails. Put a drop in, drop on powder, UV it. I kept doing this until built it up and then sanded it level and polished. It’s not perfect but it came out really good and it’s a lot better than having the chip.

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Get off my lawn!

Gary

Here are a couple pictures of the grip panel. The damage is to the right ear.





If you think the missing piece is not too deep, I'm thinking that the layering of crazy glue and mop dust might be the best approach. I'd like to use your piece of damaged grip, and see how it works.

You can also see there has been damage to the top of the panel, above the gold medallion. Looks like a piece broke out, and was glued back in.

Regards, Mike Priwer 858-254-6922 [email protected]

Mike,
I've done shallow repairs like that with multi coats of super glue. I get the thick stuff from a hobby shop. I fixed a larger chip than yours on a set of Lady Smith 3rd and I'd have to show you where it is for you to see it.
I use electrical tape to make a dam. After I have the glue up above the pearl, I sand and polish. Layers of super glue will resemble layers of Nacre after it's polished.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

I will drop it in an envelope tomorrow to send on Monday. I would try to repair the small piece in the top round first to see how it goes and what it looks like when done. I have done filling of missing wood with glue and sawdust, but never tried the technique on mother of pearl.

Have you considered checking with MOP restoration services? Mother of Pearl Repair - Maryland - Virgina | Colonial Restoration Studio

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Gary
SWCA 2515

That's a beautiful 1899 target. I hope the repair goes well.

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Jeb

Gary

I talked with a fellow at Colonial, and he thinks he can match the mop color with an epoxy glue. I don't know if that would have any depth of color to the repaired area.

Chris

I assume you simply used the crazy glue, without any mop dust ? It sounds like the
superglue went on fairly thick, as opposed to very thin layers ? I also assume the
glue does not stick to the electrical tape ? Is the thick layers better than thin layers ?
Is the purpose of the tape dam to allow the thicker layers ?

Regards, Mike

Even the thick glue will run, so without a dam, it ends up all over the back. This layers would take years to build up. :-)

Make sure you clean all the dirt out of the chips and cracks or it will show through. I use dental picks, tooth picks, plain white tooth past and a tooth brush.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

I have tried to mix various solids with super glue and always had the problem that the addition of a solid seems to accelerate the curing of the glue, sometimes almost instantaneously. The slightest amount of moisture aids in the cure of super glue and I assume that humidity soaks even into MOP dust. I think you are going to have to do a fair amount of experimentation to get the right consistency with the addition of MOP dust without instantly setting the glue. You might try gel super glue and see if that will mix with MOP dust without setting up too quickly?

As for clear filler like super glue or epoxy, it is a common practice to fill small chips and cracks in finished wood and they become almost invisible. Fill, let set, smooth with 400 grit and go finer up to 600 and 800. When smoothed out, polish with toothpaste to return a gloss finish to the area. Should work on MOP as well.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Gary

Your piece of mop arrived today - thank you !

If I can find someone who can cut out the damaged piece, cut a new piece from what you sent, glue it up, and then finish it, that is what I am going to do.

I'll keep you informed.

Thanks again, Mike

Mike, perhaps a good jeweler could could do the repair.

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John. SWCA #1586