Hi S & W experts. My dad recently passed away and while cleaning out the house I found this. I'm not a gun guy and have very little knowledge about guns. Any help would be appreciated as to what it is and if it still has any value. Its definitely been carried. The stock is broke on the bottom as the pic shows.
I have two brothers and neither of them were interested in this but if you tell me its worth a decent amount, I'll pay them for their 2/3rds. I'll probably never fire it. Just a sentimental piece.

This is what I know from my research so far...Please correct /update/or just tell me what you may know

Entire gun about 7.5"
Barrel about 2.5"
no model # and
4 screw - (so 1955-1961 manuf date)
38 Long Clutch (I think)

Thanks for passing along your knowledge.

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Welcome to the forum. Your gun is actually a lot older than you think. There's no question that it is a .32 Hand Ejector (see the barrel label) from before WWII; if the first digit of the serial number on the butt is a 2 (as I think it may be) then it is even from before WWI.

EDITED TO ADD: After a quick look at a couple of sources, I'm thinking it was manufactured around 1915. Other features of the revolver show that it cannot be younger than 1922. Check the rear face of the cylinder and the underside of the barrel; the serial number should appear there as well, and you can confirm the first digit of the number on the butt, where the first digit seems to be kind of mangled.

Sentimental value as a family heirloom is probably much greater than its market value. Probably not many would be willing to pay more than $200 for it. I imagine several people would be willing to buy it at a price between $100 and $150.

YET ANOTHER ADDITION: That's actually considered a three-inch barrel. You measure from the front of the cylinder to the muzzle to include the part of the barrel that is threaded into the frame.


ONE MORE PS: A couple of posts down Absalom is absolutely correct about the barrel length on this early .32. I should have said 3 1/4 inches. Not that it much matters, but you could also get 4-1/4 and 6-inch barrels on this model. Guns like this one are called by collectors the .32 Hand Ejector, Second Model, or the Model of 1903. At the time this gun was made, S&W produced revolvers in four different frame sizes. This one, which is called the I frame, is the next to smallest.

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David Wilson

The experts will be along shortly but from your pictures I would say it pre-dates your estimate by a half century or more. It's got family history so keep it.

This gun does not have a model number, which were not introduced until much later.

As David has pointed out, the barrel length of 2.5 inches is likely a mis-measurement. It looks from the photo like the standard 3.25-inch barrel.

And the CTG is not short for clutch, but cartridge

That is a neat old gun. I hope you keep it.

I had one just like it. I put it in my bag to show an Assistant U.S. Attorney (federal prosecutor)in New Orleans who wanted to buy it, and the Federal Protective Service officer at the USAO had me put my bag on the X-ray thing (even though I was carrying a .45 Sig he didn't care about). I saw him stop and stare at the image on his screen, then he fished it out of the bag and gave it a good look. He turned to me and said: How long HAVE you been in the Bureau?

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

a mis-measured barrel, imagine that.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Thanks for all the info!! Again I’m a complete novice when it comes to guns. So measuring the barrel or anything else, I’m not surprised I was wrong.

I’m assuming my dad inherited this gun from his dad, a farmer, not a FBI agent. Lol. But there are some crazy stories in the family history from that side so no telling where it came from.

The number on the bottom of the barrel is B213416. I’m not sure if the “B” makes a difference or not.

Thanks again for all your help!!

Welcome to the Forum.

The "B" means that it left the factory with a blue finish.

That is a five screw revolver-four in the side plate and one in the front of the trigger guard.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

By the way...welcome to the forum. These guys are real experts, even though they are also very modest. Hang around, after you find out more about your revolver, you may want to learn more about all sorts of stuff!!

Also, ammunition is still readily available for your gun, and if it's in as good a condition as it seems, you can shoot it...usually a very nice, light recoiling revolver, shoots the .32 S&W Long cartridge.

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

As Muley says, the B is not part of the serial, but only appears under the barrel and refers to the finish. The serial #213416 makes this a Model 1903, Fifth Change (a collector classification), which was made between 1910 and 1917, from serials 102501 to 263000. So yours likely falls somewhere in the middle years.

PS: A quick check just led me to 212202, shipped 7/1915, so yours likely is from somewhere in that timeframe too.

Now, now, we must make allowances for those that have less gun knowledge.

Here's an example: many folks don't know the barrel of a semi auto pistol is measured differently than a revolver barrel. To measure the barrel of a semi auto, you unload the firearm and then insert a cleaning rod into the bore and then measure the length of rod, which includes the chamber, that was inside of the barrel.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

From your pics, it is obvious that both stock panels are broken. There are reproduction stocks exactly like the ones on your gun that look very nice and are very reasonable in cost. Replacing the grips would make the gun look nicer. Also, with the gun pointing away from you, the stock panel on your right should have a serial number either scratched or stamped on the inside of the panel, hopefully matching the serial number of the gun. If you decide to replace the stock panels, keep the originals, even though they are broken. You have a nice heirloom from your father. Enjoy it.

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SWCA 3297 SWHF 583

Your dads revolver looks to be in very good condition. That .32 hand ejector is great fun to shoot and has mild recoil. I would take the stock replacement advice. You wouldn't want any further damage to befall the "probably numbered" originals. The monetary value of your revolver is not huge but keep in mind that 1903's in that condition don't grow on trees. That being said, it was your dad's and that makes it priceless in my estimation. Congratulations and welcome to the forum.

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Jeb

Welcome to the forum from Pennsylvania, yukonho!
Interesting piece, and a great way to remember dad.

Welcome to the forum and bravo to you for deciding to retain a family heirloom!

For future reference only, never just measure part of the barrel to get the correct length which is always the entire length from front end to rear end.


OLD GUN CLEANING AND SAFETY CHECK PROTOCOL FOR HEIRLOOMS & NEW GUN OWNERS:

Simply put, the only usual issue with these marvels of yesteryear is they are gummed up and dirty. Old oils of its time do not match the quality of these old guns nor the science of today, and actually dry up and harden to the point of impeding operation and accelerating wear. The simple solution does not need a gunsmith or removal of the side plate. Just one of many premium modern gun care products from any sporting goods, gun store or hardware store.

Most are both cleaning and preserving agents; Breakfree, Kroil & M-Pro7 are some of the best, and there are others, but do not use WD-40. Disassembly is not necessary. With grips removed and a spray can version of the product, flood and flush the revolver thru every opening and crevice until the black gunk stops flowing out, let it drain for an hour and wipe it down thoroughly with the same product.

Scrub barrel bore and cylinder chambers with a simple cleaning rod kit found at the same places as the cleaning agents above; patches cut from rags is all you really need. And scrub any observed exterior and crevice crud with an old toothbrush with bristles cut off short for stiffness.

To remove grips for cleaning the gun: loosen the grip screw completely and carefully push down on the screw head until the bottom grip separates, then remove. Now carefully push the top side grip off with a finger or toothbrush from the backside thru the grip frame.

An application of wax, Renaissance wax is a popular one, will enhance and protect the finish if you want something to do while watching the news!

Once cleaned and lubricated, with a few simple checks you can determine if it’s safe to use; no need to waste time and money on a gunsmith, especially if you don't know one. Open the cylinder and verify the barrel is unobstructed. Cock the hammer in single action mode. Gently push on the hammer to confirm that it will not drop w/o pulling the trigger. Cock the hammer slowly and confirm the cylinder locks in position for each of the 5 or 6 chambers about the same time the hammer cocks. If satisfactory, now operate the gun in DA pulling the trigger slowly; again confirm the cyl locks before the hammer drops. After each cycling of the action, confirm that the cyl is still locked in position.

Cylinders can have fore and aft movement and rotational movement. Check rotational movement with the hammer cocked just to make sure it won’t skip to another chamber. That's all that is really important from a safety concern. Then unless you experience 'spitting' at the barrel/cyl gap when fired, you have no reason for concern.

You have a quality made, very well engineered, assembled with skilled craftsmanship, and hand fitted revolver, no longer affordable on a competitive market basis, and the likes of which we'll never see again, ever.

Shoot it to your hearts delight, and it will delight you with its fine accuracy, and comfortable recoil.

Any current off the shelf ‘standard’ factory loaded ammo is loaded safely for use in these old guns.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I have one just like it with a 4.25" barrel, serial 233045, and it shipped in August 1916, so yours likely shipped before that.

If you have a Sportsman's Warehouse nearby, they carry a little .32 S&W Long. If not, you may have to look around a bit to find some. Online, Lucky Gunner and Graf's both have it.

Reproduction grips can be found here, if you decide to replace them.

Welcome from North Dakota What a great little old "I" frame .32 you have there .

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John

Welcome to the forum , I hope you will consider getting some ammo and at least give shooting a chance . A 32 is a good starting point with mild recoil and accuracy .

Grandfathers old gun, over a hundred years old, ammo still available. It does not get any better that this. Yukonho, you are very lucky, and a little sad, that your two brothers have no interest in grandpa's gun. Please cherish your grandfathers gun and hand it down one day to one of your children. These objects are priceless to a few of us who remember our parents and grandparents.

If it was mine I would shoot it. A solid frame gun like that should be plenty strong.
Clean it, oil it, shoot it. Repeat.
Do they still make the Lee hand die sets - the ones where you tap the rounds together with a mallet? Just a thought.
Way cool gun.

I read the s/n to be 213113, and if so, I have one is reasonable closeness, 23157x. It was shipped on June 1916. After making sure it is mechanically O.K., do yourself a favor and pick up a box of .32 wadcutter target loads, and take it out for some plinking. You may discover just how much fun it is.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Yes lee still has the Lee Loader sets on their website. Great value

Here's my grandfather's, now mine, and you can see what it started.

Model 1903 (2nd Model)-5th Change, .32 HE pre-war I frame , 3 ¼” produced Oct. 16, 1913, LEFT SIDE TOP:

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Jim
S&WCA #819

My oldest .32 Hand Ejector, First Model of 1896:

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Jim
S&WCA #819

5 screw, not 4. (Screw on front of trigger guard is counted.) Another common mistake is that later guns (newer than yours) will have magna or target grips that can cover up one of the screws, leading to another type of miscount.

Looks like a .32 to me, too. Just curious, how did you decide on "long clutch"? I'm also an old car guy, so I'm intrigued by your speculation. Welcome to the forum. We like seeing pics of these old guns, so don't hesitate to come back.

If you decide to shoot it (I would), be sure to get the correct ammunition. The box you’re looking for will say “.32 S&W Long”. The .32 S&W (a shorter cartridge) will also work in it, but are more scarce. Just don’t buy any that have the words “Colt” or “magnum” anywhere in the name. Good shootin’,
Doug

Thanks for all the info!! The little bit of info I had I found from on line trying to figure it out myself. A friend who’s a retired detective suggested I post on here for answers. I’m so glad he told me about this site. Thanks again for all your help!!

This is excellent advice for every person acquiring an old gun. Keep passing on the wisdom.