|
|
06-21-2018, 05:40 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 58
Liked 26 Times in 11 Posts
|
|
S&W Hand Ejector in 32-30
Hello! I have been absent from the forum for quite some time, and I never spent much time in the Hand Ejector section. My father recently came across a pistol in my great grandfather's desk. I have attached a picture that my dad sent me. If anyone could provide me with some info on it, I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm really not familiar with the hand ejector models at all.
1. Hand Ejector
2. Serial Number: 49831
3. 32-20
4. 4" Barrel
5. Fixed Sights
Thanks in advance!!!
Travis
__________________
Airborne ! H-Minus!
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 05:53 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: AL Wiregrass
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 34,562
Liked 10,739 Times in 3,659 Posts
|
|
Well you've already identified it as a 32 - 20 hand ejector. It was made around 1909. Later on it would also be known as the 32 M&P revolver. The grips that are on it are from the 1920s. Did you take that serial number from the butt of the gun and not from inside the Yoke area?
Guy
__________________
Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629
Last edited by Wiregrassguy; 06-21-2018 at 05:55 PM.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 05:53 PM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 256
Likes: 220
Liked 78 Times in 43 Posts
|
|
Travis, You have a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905 - 3rd Change which was manufactured between 1909-1915. It also came with a 6" barrel. Someone will probably come along and give you a more specific date of manufacture. These revolvers were manufactured prior to the cylinders being heat treated (circa 1920) so you should probably use milder handgun ammunition rather than the more powerful rifle ammunition to shoot it. If you reload there are many mild loads that you can use.
Hope this is helpful.
__________________
Pete Janssen
SWCA #2239
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 07:55 PM
|
|
SWCA Member Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Oregon
Posts: 12,834
Likes: 10,103
Liked 27,995 Times in 8,452 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy
.... Did you take that serial number from the butt of the gun and not from inside the Yoke area?
Guy
|
Good question since I think I can make out the small logo on the frame below the cylinder release, which would go with the grip style for a 1920s gun, but not that number.
|
06-21-2018, 07:56 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 58
Liked 26 Times in 11 Posts
|
|
Thanks so much for all the info! I haven’t been able to see it yet in person. My dad has been forwarding me info on it. Once I get eyes on it I’ll confirm the serial number. Thanks again!!
__________________
Airborne ! H-Minus!
|
06-21-2018, 08:09 PM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Massachusetts USA
Posts: 9,575
Likes: 3,695
Liked 8,924 Times in 3,545 Posts
|
|
Welcome back to the forum.
I would also think that this revolver is from the period of 1920 to 1930 in that the stocks do not have medallions. That is of course if the stocks are original and numbered to the gun.
There is an assembly number stamped on the yoke with the gun open that matches the number on the frame and under the side plate. These were assembly numbers placed on these fitted parts to reunite them after the gun was disassembled and sent off to be finished but have no relevance once the gun leaves the factory.
The serial number should be on the butt of the gun and that will help us to get you a closer date.
__________________
James Redfield
LM #497
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 10:07 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: The SW Va Blue Ridge
Posts: 17,474
Likes: 88,978
Liked 24,786 Times in 8,483 Posts
|
|
" These revolvers were manufactured prior to the cylinders being heat treated (circa 1920) so you should probably use milder handgun ammunition rather than the more powerful rifle ammunition to shoot it."
The "rifle only" ammunition hasn't been loaded since the 1960s and it is easy to identify. It will have a 80 grain jacketed hollow point bullet and the case headstamp will have a "HV" (high velocity) stamp.
Most of the ammo available today will say "rifle" on it, but is safe in handguns as well. If you can find "cowboy" ammo, that will be milder yet.
I have had a .32-20 of some sort since about 1975. I have had S&Ws, Colt Police Positive Specials and a Official Police, a Uberti full size single action and a Cimarron Model P Jr (7/8 scale single action, a Marlin 1894 CL rifle and a Martini-Henry Cadet rifle. It is a good shooting round.
__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!
Last edited by Muley Gil; 06-21-2018 at 10:11 PM.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 10:24 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 40
Likes: 58
Liked 26 Times in 11 Posts
|
|
Ok I called Dad. He gave me the number off the yoke initially. The number on the butt of the gun is 128154. Does that match up?
__________________
Airborne ! H-Minus!
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 10:29 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Michigan Western UP
Posts: 12,916
Likes: 3,028
Liked 14,263 Times in 5,435 Posts
|
|
Any standard manufacture of 32-20 ammo will do very nicely in that revolver. Remember that the external dimensions of this model are the same as the 38 M&P, but with much thicker cylinder walls and barrel of the 32 caliber offering result in a very strong revolver. Lots more metal than the 38 counterpart, whether heat treated or not, will give you plenty of strength for today's factory ammo.
I also see a 1920s gun. Have your father check the butt as said above, along with the inside of the right stock for the right number.
__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 10:31 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Oak Ridge TN
Posts: 417
Likes: 77
Liked 363 Times in 130 Posts
|
|
1905, 4th change. Better pics will help us narrow down the production date.
Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-21-2018, 11:46 PM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: central Texas
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 2,756
Liked 1,281 Times in 634 Posts
|
|
AR...the only thing I have close is # 130146, which was shipped 09/22/1926. Hope this helps a little.
Mike
|
06-21-2018, 11:52 PM
|
|
SWCA Member Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Oregon
Posts: 12,834
Likes: 10,103
Liked 27,995 Times in 8,452 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AR_Paratrooper
Ok I called Dad. He gave me the number off the yoke initially. The number on the butt of the gun is 128154. Does that match up?
|
Yes, this confirms a 1925/26 gun. The caliber really lost popularity in the 1920s and precise extrapolation of ship dates becomes difficult. But it all matches stock style and S&W logo now. And the cylinder is indeed heat-treated.
Last edited by Absalom; 06-21-2018 at 11:55 PM.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-22-2018, 12:54 AM
|
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: N GA
Posts: 4,466
Likes: 204
Liked 3,613 Times in 1,498 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by AR_Paratrooper
Ok I called Dad. He gave me the number off the yoke initially. The number on the butt of the gun is 128154. Does that match up?
|
Most likely Jun - Aug time frame 1926.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|