1905 nickel 4th change

[apotter11]

So on the auction, there was a .38 spl, for parts or repair. Nickel 5", 473292. Nickel has flaking and a couple worn areas. They stated the cylinder would not reliably advance, sounded like a project with worn hand. Received it, opened side plat and found no lub. Someone cleaned didn't add oil. lightly cleaned and lubed, it is about the tightest S&W k frame revolver I have seen and works perfectly! I would like to refinish, probably a powder coat, but now the dilemma of screwing up a mechanically perfect gun. This whole thing, incl grips delivered under $200!
Anyone have recommendation for removing nickel?

[JP@AK]

Originally Posted by apotter11

Anyone have recommendation for removing nickel?

It can be done, but my question is why? The nickel finish is clearly original and this gun would be a perfectly good shooter as is. Personally, I'd put period correct stocks on it and leave it be - and shoot the heck out of it. Lots of fun in that.

Here's what correct stocks would look like:

[sonora]

Leave it alone. Keep it original. Honest wear acquired from years of use. Put the correct stocks on it. Sonora

[apotter11]

When I believed the gun was worn out, there was no problem. Knowing now their is virtually no wear on the mechanicals, I am inclined to do keep and shoot. My collection is full of cosmetically challenged pieces, each has a story.

[apotter11]

Jack, I don't believe your picture has correct stocks, no medallion was a WW1 thing, this one is 30's vintage. silver medallions. The stocks on it are probably worth 1/2 the cost and part of my calculation to bid.

[glowe]

That revolver would have most likely shipped from the factory in late 1924 to early 1925. A fine S&W 38 M&P that is almost 100 years old deserves a better life that a god-awful powder coat. Clean it up and sell it to someone who would appreciate the gun for what it is. They will never make more.

I usually say "it is your gun and do what you want, but with this one, I will ask you to pleas leave it alone.

[bulletslap]

If it were mine I would polish her up with Flitz, and then wax it with a good paste wax, and add period correct stocks.

[apotter11]

Gary, see why I enter here? You all have the right answer! This old gun has to go on the shelf as is, story intact, to shoot and appreciate.

Word to all, guns declared as "parts" may be not quite correctly stated. Many are dried grease clogging them up, or in this case, overly cleaned.

Thanks Guys.

[JP@AK]

Originally Posted by apotter11

Jack, I don't believe your picture has correct stocks, no medallion was a WW1 thing, this one is 30's vintage. silver medallions.

Serial # 473292 puts it in the 1920s, first half. The mushroom shaped extractor rod knob was long gone by the 1930s (eliminated c. 1927).

During the teens (WWI period) stocks had a recessed gold-over-brass medallion. That was eliminated c. 1920 and for the next decade stocks had no medallion with convex stock circle, like those shown in my picture.

[glowe]

Originally Posted by apotter11

. . . Word to all, guns declared as "parts" may be not quite correctly stated. Many are dried grease clogging them up, or in this case, overly cleaned.

As noted above, the gun was most likely shipped in late 1924 or 1925. That was a very popular model and the factory worked hard to keep up with demand in the boom times of the 1920s. I have 482,XXX and it shipped in February 1925.

I recently purchased the gun below listed as a "Smith & Wesson Top Break Perfected, 32 Rev, #5259 stamped, For Parts/Non-Working". After buying it for $130 plus some bending and tweaking, it is now a near new condition gem. Besides of declaring this one dead, the auction company could not even get the caliber or the serial number right for the auction. Is is of course a 38 S&W and is serial number 5028. Could you imagine stripping this one and selling off parts? Bargain or Bust? is the link to the thread about the Perfected revolver.