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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 07-11-2018, 05:40 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Default 1917 Snub Nose Project

Well I finally got my first S&W 1917. It's the perfect candidate for a snubby project I've been wanting to do. It has already been shortened and is parkerized as well. I feels ok and timing is good but the cylinder is a little looser on the yolk then my 625 but I guess being a older gun its probably normal. I'm not quite sure if there is anything I can do to fix it.

Anyway I plan on shortening it to the ejector rod lug or possibly even shorter.

I've been talking to another member on here, his name is deyomatic and he has one of the shortest 1917 revolvers I've ever seen. He has a detent in the yolk to take care of the lock up since there is no ejector rod lug.

After taking to my machinest buddy he said we could easily replicate that and possibly even do two detents to make a even more positive lock up.

Just looking for ideas and suggestions on what some others have done with these old 1917 snub nose guns and possible ideas for a front sights as well. I can wait to start on this and show off the final results.

Here is a few pictures of what it looks like now.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:42 PM
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Here is Deyomatics snubby looks like for reference. I'd really like to go this route as well since I already own a 5" 4" and a 3" 625.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:55 PM
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Can you make that into a round butt? Those square butt stocks ruin the concealability if you ask me.

TheShootist1894 did this one for me - it was a 4" M64.



I didn't want a "Fitz Special" so he relieved the trigger guard instead - it's hard to see due to the "stand" supporting the gun. Also, he checkered the backstrap. I have square butt snubby K frames but I prefer them round.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:09 PM
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Just to give you something to look at and compare.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:11 PM
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Very nice find.

Two thoughts:

1. Since your making a very snubbed snubbie, a ramp or 1/2 round front sight will be friendlier to a fast draw from concealment.

2. Unless you want to maintain the ergonomics and authenticity of the original 'mushroom' knob, you may want a post war knobless extractor rod style with the knurled tip which provides about 5/16" extra length for ejection of shells. If so You need the right handed N frame version used post war until ~ 1959.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:25 PM
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If concealment is your goal, it is easier to hide a 4" round butt revolver than it is to hide a 2" square butt.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:26 PM
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A worthy project and will likely garnish some likes as lotsa big-bore snubby fans around here.
Someone mentioned round-butting it. I'll post a pic (been posted before) after I find it of one with some RB K's.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:52 PM
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My original idea was to do a round butt conversion but I'm not sure how to get around the serial number. I don't want to commit a federal crime by defacing it. The barrel is a matching number but I don't think that matters as it's a replaceable part. Concealabilty is what I really want but I'm not sure how to get around the serial number dilemma.

IGGY your snubby is what first got my gears turning on wanting to do this little cannon project. I have your pictures and posts saved for reference. Yours turned out really nice!

As far as the ejector rod I'm not sure yet because I'm having problems finding parts just to replace and try and tighten up the cylinder. Deyomatics barrel also doesn't conform around the ejector like mine or a 1917 does so I'm not sure how he did that. I'd like to keep the original mushroom knob but doesn't really matter to be honest. Depending on how short I go I thought about just making the barrel round like deyomatics or a colt 1917.

As for the front sight I've seen it done many ways. In my opinion the half moon sight fits the styling of the era of the gun the best. I'll probably carve one out of mild steel and either solder or tig weld it to the barrel.

Also I believe this was the perfect candidate for what I was doing and I didn't want to cut down a original 1917 even if it was a Brazilian.

Any ideas or tips to tighten up the cylinder or am I just over worrying about it? Thanks guys!
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:11 PM
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I like Iggy's the best! I would go for that if I was redoing one of mine. A barrel that is too short is just no good to me. You might as well hold the cartridge between your thumb and forefinger and hit the primer with a hammer.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:14 PM
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You can see in the shadow in both photos that the serial # pad under the barrel has been removed making the barrel round; likely turned off in a lathe. I wouldn't do it that way, I just reproduced the 2 step notch further back in the barrel pad. Protects the rod from getting bent somewhat.

I agree, a 1/2 rd sight would be period correct and look the best.

How is the cyl loose? Front to back end play? There's shims made for that. If it's loose side to side, 'stretching' the hand or an oversize cyl bolt fitted. Or much more easily, just peening the ratchet teeth will tighten it up.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:26 PM
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Front to back is probably a little out of spec. I haven't measured it but I'd say .010" to .015". Its enough to feel it. All my 625's have end play that is barely noticeable.

It also can be rotated just a bit more when locked like you're going to shoot it so clockwise counter clockwise.

Then it is quite noticeable when unlocked the cylinder is loose on the shaft off the yolk. Almost like its worn out maybe? I'm not sure maybe I can take a video and post it.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:43 PM
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It's your gun, but personally I'd want another inch of barrel, both for accuracy and just plain aesthetics. I can see round-butting it, though.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:51 PM
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SHTF,
I had to file the front site down because it was shooting about a foot low at 20'. It's right on now elevation wise. It is much more accurate in my buddy's hand, though.

Want me to get some pics of the detent?

I love the aesthetics of mine. It looks like an M&P snub- until you pick it up!
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post


Just to give you something to look at and compare.
If I had one I would do it just like Iggy's . To me they look so much better with the ejector rod catch and the full length rod is easier to unload the empties.
Cutting off another inch barrel doesn't gain anything.
I like the front sight on yours ...I would keep it , slide it back and do a little rounding of the butt .
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
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Front to back is probably a little out of spec. I haven't measured it but I'd say .010" to .015". Its enough to feel it. All my 625's have end play that is barely noticeable.

It also can be rotated just a bit more when locked like you're going to shoot it so clockwise counter clockwise.

Then it is quite noticeable when unlocked the cylinder is loose on the shaft off the yolk. Almost like its worn out maybe? I'm not sure maybe I can take a video and post it.
The bottom line: is the accuracy off? And are you getting any spitting at bar/cyl gap? If not, It's within normal wear for a gun of that age.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:19 PM
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The military 1917 serial # is not a problem for rounding the butt.

Or is your 1917 a commercial model?
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:25 PM
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I may try to use the front sight again and see how it looks.

As far as accuracy I'm not sure yet as I've only owned it a few hours. I'll definitely try shooting it the next few weeks to see what it's like before I start working on it.

As far as the model it's a Brazilian contract 1917. So the serial number is on the back of the bottom. It doesn't say US Army so there isn't enough room I don't think to round the butt off to make it a official round butt. Other wise I'd have to make custom grips.

I may just cut it down to the ejector lug and try it like that for awhile and see how I like it. Then I can look for another barrel in the mean time and see what happens from there before I cut it extremely short.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:36 PM
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Interesting thread. Will be showing it to a friend. he has a U.S. M1917 that someone has made a snub nose out of it.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:14 PM
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Here's one of mine. It uses a 625-10 PC 2" barrel and matching cylinder. I actually used a BB for the ball and a Cylinder & Slide spring for the ball detent. The C&L balls were smaller than the existing cut in the barrel.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:38 PM
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Put a set of round butt Magna grips on it and then trace around them. If the cut interferes with SN, well of course you shouldn't cut unless you do make a set of custom grips that allows for the full SN to not be altered.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
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Here's one of mine. It uses a 625-10 PC 2" barrel and matching cylinder. I actually used a BB for the ball and a Cylinder & Slide spring for the ball detent. The C&L balls were smaller than the existing cut in the barrel.
That gun is amazing!!! I've seen it before or one like it. I'm not sure if it's yours or not. I can't seen to find 625 barrels except for a new 4" from midway which is current production. May I ask how you got the round butt to work?
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISCS Yoda View Post
Can you make that into a round butt? Those square butt stocks ruin the concealability if you ask me.

TheShootist1894 did this one for me - it was a 4" M64.



I didn't want a "Fitz Special" so he relieved the trigger guard instead - it's hard to see due to the "stand" supporting the gun. Also, he checkered the backstrap. I have square butt snubby K frames but I prefer them round.
I AGREE, Yoda. THE ROUND BUTT AND BOBBED HAMMER IS THE WAY TO GO. THE BARREL COULD BE CUT SHORTER, IF HE WISHES, BUT YOUR GUN LOOKS JUST ABOUT PERFECT TO ME......
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:59 PM
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I recently posted a thread about my 1937 Brazillian snubby project.

My Latest N Frame Project.. The beginning---Update: May 23rd, 2018!!

I too was inspired by Iggy's snub. Here is a snapshot of it:



In the thread, I detail a lot of the tasks that go into making the thing work.

Best Regards, Les
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muley Gil View Post
Put a set of round butt Magna grips on it and then trace around them. If the cut interferes with SN, well of course you shouldn't cut unless you do make a set of custom grips that allows for the full SN to not be altered.
You can petition the BATFE to allow for a restamping of the original SN before the fact (by a licensed gunsmith) if the original will be defaced by a necessary refinish. They can provide a letter to the GS to allow him to relocate it to the side or front before it is obliterated from the bottom. The important word here is 'before'.

My 2" pictured above was modified to K square butt shape, but it didn't hurt the original frame SN.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:20 PM
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FWIW, I personally prefer the square butt on an N frame and don't have trouble concealing it, so I'd leave it for the time being. You can always grind it down later.

As for the barrel, I think on a variety of levels you are better off keeping it at around 3". There's the slight increase in performance, the improved appearance, and ultimately the fact that if you finish it and decide to sell, folks on this site will gobble it up if it's a 3", but less so if it's a 2". Note: I carry a 3" 629 every day, and it's my favorite gun. Despite being a round butt, otherwise it's just the perfect size for me.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
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You can petition the BATFE to allow for a restamping of the original SN before the fact (by a licensed gunsmith) if the original will be defaced by a necessary refinish. They can provide a letter to the GS to allow him to relocate it to the side or front before it is obliterated from the bottom. The important word here is 'before'.

My 2" pictured above was modified to K square butt shape, but it didn't hurt the original frame SN.
THAT'S A USEFUL BIT OF INFO, cgt4570. THANKS FOR SHARING IT......
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:06 AM
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If concealment is your goal, it is easier to hide a 4" round butt revolver than it is to hide a 2" square butt.
I GOTTA ROLL WITH YOU ON THIS ONE, Muley Gil......

THE PROBLEM IS THE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE BUTT, RATHER THAN THE LENGTH OF THE BARREL. SQUARE BUTTS HAVE A TENDENCY TO PRINT---ESPECIALLY ON A N-FRAME GUN........
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
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As far as the model it's a Brazilian contract 1917. So the serial number is on the back of the bottom. It doesn't say US Army so there isn't enough room I don't think to round the butt off to make it a official round butt. Other wise I'd have to make custom grips.

I may just cut it down to the ejector lug and try it like that for awhile and see how I like it. Then I can look for another barrel in the mean time and see what happens from there before I cut it extremely short.

Normally the serial # on a pre war model is centered w/o a lanyard swivel and the 1917 US Army are fairly simple because of the serial # location. But since the Brazilians were made with swivels, the # is moved to the rear. So round butting is not that simple.

To rd butt a 1917 US Army or pre war N frame w/o lanyard swivel:

The rear corner of the butt is hollow so it can't just be ground off, the backstrap must be cut loose from the butt, bending the backstrap forward 5/16", and welding it back together with the butt. Cut off the excess butt length and grind the heel off 1/8" to round it to the rd grip. Then grind off 1/4" from the front toe, round it, and grind the taper up the fore strap almost its full height to match the rd grip. Re-countersink the tension screw hole for the screw head and cut the screw length to fit.


To rd butt to fit a standard N frame rd butt grip and retain the serial # and lanyard ring on a Brazilian or commercial model:

Instead of doing the above, don't cut the backstrap at the heel. Cut the butt/backstrap loose from the grip frame by making a cut thru the toe horizontally just above the lanyard retaining pin and leave the backstrap attached to the butt. Now bend the back strap and butt forward 5/16".

To re-attach the butt/backstrap to the grip frame and maintain the grip's original length, make a "fill" weld in the cut. Grind off the heel corner of the backstrap 1/8" to round it to match rd butt grips mounted on the locating dowel. Cut off the excess 5/16" butt length at the toe, and rd the toe to match the rd butt grip. Grind off the taper up the forestrap to match the grip. Re-countersink the tension screw hole for the screw head and cut the screw length to fit.

The full serial # and lanyard swivel hole has been retained. The swivel hole will be right under the bottom of the mainspring. Slightly deepen the swivel hole thru the fill weld and re-install the swivel. The original position of the grip dowel and mainspring retention groove are undisturbed. Polish all ground surfaces and your done! No more work than to do a normal rd butt conversion.

Hope that helps and you can follow it,
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:19 AM
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You can petition the BATFE to allow for a restamping of the original SN before the fact (by a licensed gunsmith) if the original will be defaced by a necessary refinish. They can provide a letter to the GS to allow him to relocate it to the side or front before it is obliterated from the bottom. The important word here is 'before'.

My 2" pictured above was modified to K square butt shape, but it didn't hurt the original frame SN.
Which model is the frame?
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:36 AM
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Default Front Sight

With a barrel that short, I would consider not mounting the front sight on it. Solder a BB on the front of the frame instead.

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Old 07-12-2018, 01:22 AM
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My 1917 snub is a Colt (obviously) except for the S&W sights.







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Old 07-12-2018, 09:43 AM
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I am having a 2" made from a reblued 1917 military and leaving the sq butt grip frame alone. That way I can switch around my N frame grips when I fire up the BBQ. Midway or Brownells have a kit for the detent. I still don't know what to do for the front sight.

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Old 07-12-2018, 09:59 AM
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I have several including a 17 cut to 3.5". I shot it this week with no front sight and it hit4-5" high at 7yd. It is nickel and won't solder. My suggestion before rounding the butt is to install a boot grip and try it with a pancake type holster which tucks the butt in closer. Boot grips are easy to fabricate by cutting and old pair of target grips level with the butt
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:30 AM
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Which model is the frame?
It came to me as a pretty rough cut down Brit .455 Second.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:03 AM
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Try to get your hands on a cutdown before you start sawing.
Tastes vary but I consider that I ruined a Highway Patrolman by having the butt rounded and I was a very short term owner of a Bobtailed 1911.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:24 AM
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My 1917 snub is a Colt (obviously) except for the S&W sights.
Sir, I've lusted after that revolver for years. I hate you. Really enjoy that guy.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:50 AM
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Sir, I've lusted after that revolver for years. I hate you. Really enjoy that guy.
Thanks! At least you're right here in NC with it!

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Old 07-12-2018, 12:51 PM
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Try to get your hands on a cutdown before you start sawing.
Tastes vary but I consider that I ruined a Highway Patrolman by having the butt rounded and I was a very short term owner of a Bobtailed 1911.
Well, if you hate that RB M28 THAT bad, send me a PM with a price.
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:20 PM
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Yeah that colt was another one that inspired me. I didn't go that route though because of the colt being larger and heavier then the s&w. It is a beautiful revolver though.

As far as the front sight I've thought about not using a front sight and making it like a charter arms pitbull. Then just running a longer notch down the top strap for some better alignment. I mean let's be honest. The intended purpose isn't going to shoot well long distances anyway so it probably wouldn't be a big deal anyway.

I'm still up in the air on the round butt conversion for now but not excluding it.

Hondo44 I'm going to PM for more info on what you explained just to make sure I'm clear on what you are saying to do. I have all the equipment and capability of doing the welding at home so in definitely considering it at some point.

If those of you that posted about a 2" barrel could post some more pictures that would be awesome! As of right now deyomatics is the only real short snubby I could find using a original style barrel.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:16 PM
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A Brazilian I had and let go for a reason I don't really remember now. I wish I had it back

100_1992.jpg100_1993.jpg

I do have a 625-2 that's in the shop now for a 3inch barrel
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:18 PM
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Hondo44 I tried to message you but it would let me send pictures so I'll just post up my questions. I'm not really sure what you are trying to tell me. The lanyard hole isn't a concern for me so if that would need to be welded up or cut out I'm fine with that in my venture for a round butt.

The front has plenty of room for any kind of grinding or shaping. The rear is limited because of the serial number.

I lined up a set of ahrends round butt grips and there is no way to just grind to shape in the rear. It would cause the separation of the frame and not to mention almost completely losing the serial number. Here are some pictures and ideas I'm throwing out here to see what everyone thinks.

The blue is where the serial number is. The red is the possible cuts.

To cut the backstrap and move it inward I don't think will work as there isn't enough room to physically do that. The serial number is only a 1/4" off the back of the frame.

My idea is cut from the rear forward just under the pin for the grips. Then to cut straight up from the bottom. Then a small slice possibly in the back bottom corner to allow variations in angles when the back is move forward. Then cut the lanyard hole out and move the back strap forward along with the bottom and serial number. Weld up the cuts and then there should be enough material in the back to grind the round butt.

Maybe this is what you meant Hondo44 and I miss understood.

What do you guys think?

I included a bare photo of the frame. Feel free to draw on it any ideas of how I can accomplish this. Thank you!
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:53 PM
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I can't seen to find 625 barrels except for a new 4"
How many 625-10 (2"x.45) barrels are you wanting?
PM if you'd like.

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Old 07-13-2018, 04:05 PM
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I'm going to do just that right now thank you
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:28 PM
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Not a "snub" and I didn't do it but the guys at King chopped the barrel on this 1917 and added their "Super Police" night sight package to my 1917







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Old 07-13-2018, 04:33 PM
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I like them all but actually prefer the 3.5-4" 1917's anyway.
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:40 PM
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Pics are repost


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Old 07-13-2018, 05:12 PM
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Hondo44 I tried to message you but it would let me send pictures so I'll just post up my questions. I'm not really sure what you are trying to tell me. The lanyard hole isn't a concern for me so if that would need to be welded up or cut out I'm fine with that in my venture for a round butt.

The front has plenty of room for any kind of grinding or shaping. The rear is limited because of the serial number.

I lined up a set of ahrends round butt grips and there is no way to just grind to shape in the rear. It would cause the separation of the frame and not to mention almost completely losing the serial number. Here are some pictures and ideas I'm throwing out here to see what everyone thinks.

The blue is where the serial number is. The red is the possible cuts.

To cut the backstrap and move it inward I don't think will work as there isn't enough room to physically do that. The serial number is only a 1/4" off the back of the frame.

My idea is cut from the rear forward just under the pin for the grips. Then to cut straight up from the bottom. Then a small slice possibly in the back bottom corner to allow variations in angles when the back is move forward. Then cut the lanyard hole out and move the back strap forward along with the bottom and serial number. Weld up the cuts and then there should be enough material in the back to grind the round butt.

Maybe this is what you meant Hondo44 and I miss understood.

What do you guys think?

I included a bare photo of the frame. Feel free to draw on it any ideas of how I can accomplish this. Thank you!
You got it!

Eliminating the swivel hole makes it even a little simpler.

And your angle cut in the web of the rear corner for the angle of the butt change when the backstrap is bent forward is good.

However, with a little more thought I foresee one potential problem with both of our plans:

When the backstrap is bent forward and the angle of the butt is bent downward, it's going to add slight length to the grip frame. The back half of the butt will no longer be flush with the front half. It'll likely gain about 1/32" in length and be too long for rd butt grips. Can't grind it off because of the serial #.

Therefore the angle cut in the rear corner web will have to go all the way thru. This will allow the rear piece of the butt to be moved up and also correct the angle.
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:18 PM
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Not a "snub" and I didn't do it but the guys at King chopped the barrel on this 1917 and added their "Super Police" night sight package to my 1917



That's cool!

Does the rear groove also have the white outline 1/2 circle ?
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:26 PM
Shtf45acp Shtf45acp is offline
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Oh yeah I didn't think about that. I just didn't want to separate the number completely from the frame. But that probably isn't a issue as in not defacing the number or replacing it. Plus it still matches the barrel and my paper work from when I registered it.

This will actually make it easier because I could work with the back strap and probably even roll it to match a round butt profile and have minimal grinding on the rear.

I think I'm definitely going to go this route and go ahead and do the conversion.

Is standard E70S-6 filler good enough to use for welding? Or do I need a exotic filler rod?
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:41 PM
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I'd use the E70S-6.
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