Would someone please post photos of the grips that are found on the various 38 Hand Ejector M&P 1905 Fourth Change and the years these grips were used?
Thank You.

Not a great picture but hope this helps.

Teen's 20's
30's Victory
Early post war sharp shoulder

Don't own anything newer than these.

Attached Images

IMG_1341[1].jpg (103.9 KB, 86 views)

One picture missing is the earliest style (up to around 1911) which is somewhat similar to the 1920s round top style shown. It also had no medallion, and the round top is slightly concave instead of convex. The style used from around 1911 to 1920 is the round top deep dish gold medallion shown. The 1930s round top style with the silver medallion is somewhat scarce, as there weren't that many guns made during the 1930s Great Depression. For the Model of 1902 style round butt K-frame revolvers, black hard rubber grips are common but sometimes wood grips are seen. During WWII, grips used were wood round-top but smooth without checkering (shown above).

Some few Magna-design grips were used just prior to WWII, but after WWII Magnas were standard but in several different variations. Up to the early 1950s, the sharp shoulder type Magna (shown above) was used. Afterward, the shoulder was rounded. There was also the PC style Magna, where the bottom corners were rounded. In the late 1960s, the diamond around the screw holes was discontinued.

The OP asked about 4th change grips so I excluded the 3rd change concave's, my favorite early S&W grips (stocks).

1914(3rd change), 1924 and 1939

Attached Images

	43. M&P Model of 1905 3rd Change (2017).jpg (127.4 KB, 40 views)
	Sep 15 2017 (9) (Medium).jpg (134.3 KB, 40 views)
	Sep 24, 2017 (2) (Large).jpg (173.7 KB, 47 views)

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Some refer to all round-top grips as "service" grips. But Magnas are also service grips (standard factory OE grips), just a different design.

The question was about K frame stocks during the so-called "Fourth Change." That designation is somewhat artificial, especially after about 1940, but we'll work with it.
Here is an array, in order of appearance, walnut only. Dates are approximate:

1915-1919 Square butt


1915-1919 Round butt (scarce by this time)


1920-1929


1930-1941


1935-1946


1942-1945


1946-1953 (bottom gun only)

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Thank you all very much!! Sorry I have not got back soon but today has been an electrical disaster and I have spent the last three hours looking for a new ballast for some kitchen lighting!

Convert them to LED and you will never have to worry about such problems again. You simply remove the ballast and do a bit of simple re-wiring.

These are on my M&P,dated to around 1912.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachm...&d=15324091449

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	1905-1.jpg (137.8 KB, 11 views)
	1905-2.jpg (277.2 KB, 12 views)

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

DWalt,you are a life saver!!! The ballast in my old(2 years old!) I cannot find so instead of trying to patch wire I will convert to LED bulbs.

Don't even have to do rewiring. They have made a hybrid LED tube for a few years that are plug and play, no need to bypass the fixture ballast and they work on both non-ballasted and ballast fixtures.

Here is one that got left out - hard rubber.

Attached Images

Untitled.jpg (36.3 KB, 12 views)

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Yes. Thanks.

I wrote:
The only hard black rubber stocks I own are on I frame guns, so I could not display them. I acknowledged that when I wrote that I was showing the walnut stocks only.

Thank you, Gary, for rounding out the display.

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

The main idea is to remove the ballast completely so you will never have any problems with them again. I have also understood that the LED tubes designed to work with a ballast are not so reliable, and I believe that they are more expensive. In any event, I went with removing the ballasts in all my fluorescent fixtures, and I have a lot of them. 12 (single tube fixtures) on my enclosed sun porch, two in my garage, four in my office, four in a storage room, and two in my kitchen. I still have some unconverted fixtures in my bathrooms and under-cabinet kitchen fixtures but I will leave them alone as long as they are working OK, then I will convert them. All you really need is a wire stripper and some wire splice nuts. There is plenty of wire already there, no need to buy or add more.

BTW - best place to buy LED tubes is off eBay. I think I was paying about $7 each including shipping, which was fairly quick. LED tubes should last forever and use far less electricity.

I decided to set mine up without any ballast using the proper LED lights and non shunted lampholders.My problem today was trying to find the lampholders needed for the conversion.I could not find any locally that were the snap in holders so I ordered some from the net.I will remember that about ebay.
Thanks again everybody!!

I have had several fixtures with hybrid LEDs for a few years with no problems. If figure if it ain't broke don't fix it. Unless you have a fixture that is hard to replace, just buy a new LED fixture for $15 without bulbs or $30 with 2 LED bulbs.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I don't understand. What was wrong with the fluorescent sockets already there? Shunted or not makes no difference so long as you connect to the wires already there. Black to one end, white to the other end. That's all there is to it.

I will look at the lights again but I think the ones I bought are made to apply power to just one end.If they are the type you are talking about I will try to put things together today.
Thank you.