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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 08-09-2018, 07:03 PM
DCC DCC is offline
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Default Triple Lock Light Strike

Shot my old Triple Lock 455 in D/A the other day and had a couple of Light Strikes...I say Old T/L as I now have a second, and slight younger, T/L too.
Normally plink using S/A...so went round the cylinder again S/A and FTF Rnds fired of OK second time around...
The T/L in question is a 100 years old and I'm using European primers - S&B and/or Fiocchi - I live in UK where Federal Primers are hard to come by and at least approx. 25% dearer...
Also...when I prepped the cases - M&S 455 MkII - for re-loading I noticed that my old Lee Auto-Prime (and it is Old with round primer holder) was not seating the primers totally flush...so maybe that is the issue? When I load this next batch of cases I plan to seat the primers using the Lee Turret Press Primer Seater widget.
BTW - VMT for all the good info y'all put on this site...
and...
I get a hell of kick out of shooting 100 year old pistols...
which are only 30 years older than I am!!!
ATB
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:30 PM
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If your primers were not getting completely seated that may well have caused the light strike problem. Firing pin strikes primer, primer moves a little bit forward in case soaking up a bit of energy, then primer bottoms out then firing pin begins to deform and pressure priming material against primer anvil. That bit of energy moving the primer robs enough cause the light strike.

Excess endshake in a cylinder can cause this to, instead of crushing the primer first firing pin energy is used to move cylinder assy.

Last edited by steelslaver; 08-09-2018 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:46 PM
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I agree with steelslaver.

So it's not a light strike, it's a FTF due to ammo.

Pretty hard to get a light strike with those early hand ejectors, they have good long hammer firing pin noses and strong hammer springs.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:51 PM
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If it does turn out to be a light strike and not a seating issue, make sure the mainspring strain screw is in fully (and that it hasn't been shortened in years past). That was incorrectly thought to be a poor man's answer to a lighter feeling action. I've seen mainsprings that were thinned to reduce their tension, also.

FYI: you can use a modern aftermarket Wolfe ribbed mainspring in a TL or pre-war hand ejector but you have to grind the 'hooks' a little on the stirrup end to keep them from binding as you reach full cock.
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