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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 08-11-2018, 10:44 PM
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Default What did I buy for $13?

I picked up what was labeled as a K Frame hammer but figured it was really a N Frame and likely a TL hammer. What I'm curious about is the portion between the double and single action notches.

Thoughts on this configuration?

1926 on the left, Hammer in question in the middle, Transitional on the right.




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Old 08-11-2018, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LLOYD17 View Post
I picked up what was labeled as a K Frame hammer but figured it was really a N Frame and likely a TL hammer. What I'm curious about is the portion between the double and single action notches.

Thoughts on this configuration?

1926 on the left, Hammer in question in the middle, Transitional on the right.




Here is a photo of one of my TL hammers for comparison.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:24 AM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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That was a great deal.

First, hammer heights by frame size:

K frame, 1 ¾” in height
L frame, 1 7/8”
N frame, 2”

Second, the center is a TL hammer as shown by Matthew above. They're known to be unique with a shorter hammer action.

About the same time as the introduction of the Second Model, the shape of the bottom of the foot of the hammer was changed, along with a different shaped hammer fly (double action sear) to allow for longer travel when fired double action.

This style of hammer was basically continued up until the introduction of the short action Model 1950. While the hammers may be cosmetically different, functionally they are the same. The transitional hammer has one difference due to the cut made below the firing pin to accommodate the new style hammer block. But functionally the same and can be retrofitted into pre war guns. It is not advisable to put a pre-war hammer into a transition gun unless a notch is cut, as the hammer block bar would have to be removed in order for it to function, thus disabling a safety feature.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 08-22-2018 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:28 AM
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Thanks to both for the info. I’m fairly familiar with pre war hammers with the exception of the TL’s other than the notes on the forum that they’re different. This is the first time I’ve seen the difference since I never cracked open the side plate on the TL I owned.

I also may have picked up a trigger to go with this hammer a few weeks ago as it too has a chafing bushing and the sear engagement area (don’t exactly know the correct nomenclature) is a bit different but similar to the pic above.

Thanks
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:43 AM
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I have swapped TL hammers into later pre-war guns but it takes a bit of tweaking and parts swapping.
Not many turn up in good or better condition. The one I used in a project had a modified spur so I didn't mind repurposing it.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgt4570 View Post
I have swapped TL hammers into later pre-war guns but it takes a bit of tweaking and parts swapping.
Not many turn up in good or better condition. The one I used in a project had a modified spur so I didn't mind repurposing it.
Can you please elaborate? Other than the hammer and trigger, are there other major parts that differ or is it more a fitment job?
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