Hey all,
I have a chance to pick this up for $250. What do you all think? Seller says it's a 1948 m&p.
Thanks

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More pictures

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A little high. Looks refinished with aftermarket grips. Would make a good truck/glove box revolver.

With finish and grips, you are at the max dollars. Have to agree, great truck gun.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Politely put, the lighting in the photos is horrible

I honestly can’t tell whether it’s refinished. The cylinder looks original, other parts not so much. If so, it was a long time ago. There is corrosion on the trigger and in some other spots.

On the other hand, as has been said, if you’re just looking for a truck gun or a shooter, the nice Pachmayrs are a plus, and if it’s mechanically sound, 250 for a fully functional classic M&P would be acceptable.

PS: From what I can read of the serial on the cylinder face, it’s an S 829-something, which would make it 1946.

My opinion is also that it's probably a 1946 shipment. $250 is an OK price. Not too difficult to find correct Magna grips if you are so inclined.

Thanks for the info guys. Seller said he had some wood grips to include if he finds them. If I get it, it will be a shooter. If I like it I might put a duracoat or something on it after a clean up.

If you want to own a genuine M&P , $250 is a seemingly good opportunity. That said , the refinish prep which resulted in the rounded edges on the side plate , hence the "not tight" look to the seam , would be tough for me to accept. Personally , I'd look for a worn but original finished specimen.

If the function is good , and you like it , your call. Someone here could possibly find a link to one of those threads on evaluating a used revolver - lock up , end shake , bore condition - all that. That one would have to pretty darned good mechanically to warrant $250 , considering the refinish.

Short answer : Ok deal? Maybe.

just an update,

I picked it up and it doesn't look as bad as the pictures made it but it's still needs some cleaning up. serial # is S8299##. does that still put in around 1946? from my quick googling I've found they made less of these S prefix serial #'s. by the condition of this it is NOT a collector gun. does putting a refinish on this seem like a bad idea ? I don't want the few bare spots to rust as this will be a car gun but I guess I can always trade it to someone who want an older M&P. what do you all think?

Check under those rubber grips...... they can trap moisture and be a rust magnet......over the years I've seen a lot of nice guns with rust on the concealed grip frame.

1946 would still have the pre-war long action??????

It is a long action by the SN and the shape of the visible part of the hammer; the short action introduced the "speed hammer".

I would use a very light polish on the exterior (Renaissance Pre-Lim is a good one) and wax it to prevent rust on the worn surface areas. Refinishing a nice 90% original blued gun would not be something I would do. Good luck in your decision.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

There is a stamp on the heels of the grip that indicates it was sent back to the factory for refinishing

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Here's a better pix

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Looks like it went back twice,in 1963 and 1974?. Hope everything is OK under the rubber and I agree that it should be gone, especially if you are going to leave it a vehicle. For others looking at a revolver with one-piece rubber grips, make sure you have the owner remove them before considering purchasing the gun.

I had to chuckle with your comment of someone wanting an "older gun". I only own three K frames newer than WWII, so to me that is a newer gun. Since it has likely been refinished at least twice, one more time won't make much difference. Check out the guts of that revolver to make sure that the past owner(s) at least took care of the inside mechanism, since they apparently did not care much about the outside. Maybe it was a police carry revolver??

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Go shoot it.
If you like it, then keep it.
Revolvers make great house guns because when awakened and your not clear-headed,,they are easy to use.

A documented factory re-finish isn’t nearly as bad for the collector value (such as it is, which isn’t that much) as an undefined commercial job.

I still would like to see a picture in natural light, but it does not look that bad, and generally, you’ll never get the time and effort (if DIY) or money back that you put into a refinish unless you’re positive you’ll keep and cherish the gun for the rest of your life

I’ll join the general tenor: Clean it up and keep it clean and oiled, and it should survive you (no matter your age group).

Take it apart, clean, lube and apply flitz to the surface to clean up the oxide acumulated , it should surprise you how good it looks, after de cleaning. And then, shoot the hell out of it!

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"lets be careful out there"

What is stamped on the upper left side of the backstrap? The finish on that gun does not look factory to me. The factory would not have rounded the sideplate seam, IMO. I believe it was refinished after the factory worked on it. This may have been a hard working LEO or security company gun at one time or even a cowboy's gun. Nevertheless, it is probably worth $250. I've seen worse sell for more. If you decide not to recoat it, get some Strike Hold CLP and treat the metal. You can store it underwater after that and it won't rust (check out their YT videos).

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Guy, that is why I said at least two refinishes have been done. It looks like numbers, but believe it could also be heavy grinding or pit marks as they also appear on the left side of the front. I forgot to note the stamp in the rectangle should be the standard R - B signifying repair and/or refinish in blue.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I wouldn't duracoat the beautiful revolver.

Gary, it may have very well received two refinishes at Smith & Wesson. But my observation is that whenever the last finish was done on it, it wasn't by the factory. The polishing is too rough and overdone and frankly it doesn't look very professional. The stamp is R-S which I believe stands for "refinish standard." If I remember correctly, that was for a brush blue finish and R-B or a large B was for a bright finish.

Guy

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

S8299##

On my list is S8290xx which shipped in 7/46. I still believe that $250 is not a bad price for any functional M&P despite other opinions to the contrary. I would not spend a penny to refinish it.

BTW, I have an acquaintance who had a very similar postwar M&P, except it was a civilian SV-series. The blued finish was fairly good, but it had a replacement barrel. He recently sold it for $350.

Few more pix in some bad lighting after work. I might see if anyone is interested locally as id feel guilty giving it the cold blue treatment

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While the magna stocks in your pics will work, they are newer than the gun. Correct ones would have a diamond in the center of the panels. No big deal, just letting you know.

Also, the backstrap is marked with MDC followed by a number. The letters would indicate it was once owned by ?? Department of Corrections. The number would have been the rack number of the revolver.

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SWCA 3297 SWHF 583

[
Cool, I was wondering about that marking thank you and everyone else for the info

QUOTE=kscharlie;140143600]While the magna stocks in your pics will work, they are newer than the gun. Correct ones would have a diamond in the center of the panels. No big deal, just letting you know.

Also, the backstrap is marked with MDC followed by a number. The letters would indicate it was once owned by ?? Department of Corrections. The number would have been the rack number of the revolver.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I’m still not happy about the pictures to come to a sound final judgment

But I see nothing that looks so bad it would justify a refinish. Thr gun has obviously seen a lot of service since the refinish. And the agency stamp adds a bit of interest.

It was not unusual for various LE agencies, etc. to add a property stamp on the butt or backstrap. A couple of months ago I found a Model 15 with a "DPD" stamped on the butt. The prevailing opinion here was that it likely meant Dallas Police Department. But it could also have been some other city with a name beginning in D. In your case the state might be Maryland, Missouri, Minnesota, etc. It's a situation where the opinion of a cop gun collector could be helpful.

If you wish to pass that revolver along to someone else it certainly is your prerogative. However , if you are interested in trying some DIY bluing you have the ideal subject to try it out on. You really can't hurt that M&P , as long as you are reasonable and well informed in what you do to it.

A while back I bought a $200 model 15 just to have a no risk "learn to work on it" gun. Money well spent.

this was my thoughts as well

"MDC" is most likely the Metropolitan District Commission which was the police for the park system in Boston MA.

I have a revolver that letters to them marked with MDC followed by a number.

History - M.D.C. Police Photos

I mean, bad finish, no finish, good finish, it is still a nice revolver. I would think about refinishing it too. And putting some period correct stocks on. It would make for a fantastic range gun. And if it works well a good home defense gun. Tapered barrels for the win.

Plus one for .44 Special!

I see that Dura Coat has a finish that kind of looks like bluing now. Has any one tried it? I have a Hand Ejector that left the factory in 1913-14 with no finish left on it. Been thinking about trying it as the mechanical condition is spot on.


PS: OK to move to another forum if this not OK here.

I like weapons with old property markings and enough wear that I do not agonize over how much they depreciate with each round fired. If I needed a utility .38 I would consider this piece a far better value than the currently manufactured Model 10.

I would consider any money spent on refinishing as madness. I agree the rubber handles should go, but instead of worrying about 'correct' grips I'd look for low priced and pimpy, such as plastic stag or fake ivory with a raised carving of a cow.

I would have offered $200 but cheerfully paid $250 if it's mechanically sound with a good bore and charge holes.

I would clean it up, maybe do a little cold blue touchup. Or not. Then wax it and shoot the hell out of it.

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Oh well, what the hell.

This here is a fine example of : You never quite know which gun is going to spur a lengthy discussion. Interesting phenomenon.

I tried two shades of durablue. It works. Looks fake. That revolver has perfect patina/tells a story. Leave it as is and enjoy it...

I just noticed the serial number on the rear cylinder picture and think I see 329XXX? If so, the gun is much earlier than 1948 and probably 1922 ship date. If the barrel has a diamond or rectangle stamped on the bottom flat, it was replaced and the ejector rod knob was updated t fit the replacement barrel groove?

A pre-war law enforcement revolver is worth more than $250 and one in good working order would sell easily for $300 or more if the initials were identified.

The only serial number option for these tired eyes is 829XXX, which would have shipped from the factory in 1941 era.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

...OP...you got it out into the sunlight...but placing it on that white background forced your camera to under expose it...

...try a gray or beige background next time...

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A Country Boy Can Survive