Need help please I cannot idetify it i think its a s&w 32 long 3rd change

GHOST5035 · #1 08-24-2018, 01:11 AM

Hello friends I recently picked up what I believe to be a s&w 32 long 3rd change revolver it’s in rough shape and it had an issue that it would not lock back in single action I took it apart to try and find issue with no resolve also now I’m having trouble getting it together the memory card that I had the files corrupted on it and I cannot find any YouTube videos to help me anyone have any pictures or advice

steelslaver · #2 08-24-2018, 06:09 AM

It is later than that I think as it uses a coil main spring. Probably from the early to mid 50s.

Just how far is it taken down. Not to bad if trigger not disassembled.

Smallest coil spring about 3/16 od goes in hole in front of frame cut out above front of trigger guard. Then the bolt that locks up cylinder goes on its stud. You must compress spring to get it in unless the frame has a screw in front of trigger guard that is removed to install spring from front. Once bolt is in place the trigger assy goes on its stud, the hand must be held back a bit to clear frame then pop forward inbto its window as trigger is moved into place. Its front tip goes in the notch in bolt Then the rebound slide gets its spring (about a 1/4" od and an inch long) spring goes inside slide then the small round socket in front of slide mates with the ball on the end of the trigger lever. Slide must be laid at an angle, then it and spring pressed forward with a screw driver until the end of the spring just clears the post for it and the slot in slide goes down over post. I hold my tongue pressed over to the left side of my mouth and it seems to help. Now with trigger held back a bit and the latch assy all the way to the rear the hammer can go on its stud. Everything has to be in a position so firing pin clears frame and the hammer sear slips in its position with trigger sear. Then, there is a strut with a ball on one end and a long spring, and a small collar with a hole that makes up main spring assy. The collar goes on last with square side of od against the spring. Compress spring and stick a small pin, punch or finish nail below rounded part of collar, thru hole in strut. This holds the spring compressed so you can stick the ball end of strut in socket in hammer. The ball of collar then goes in its place in grip frame and when you cock the hammer you can remove pin.

If the trigger assy is in pieces that is another paragraph or so to put back together. But, there is a tiny spring fro the double action sear, (a small toggle like piece similar to the one on your hammer, then a little fine spring with a couple arms off it that go inside the trigger slot. one end little arm goes against trigger itself and the other must be loaded while one pin of the hand goes in a pivot hole and the other pin on hand goes in a slot so that the other arm on hand spring presses it forward. The toggle that is operated by rebound slide is pinned in trigger.

Now the hammer block, a small bar with a flag on top and a rounded piece on bottom with a slotted hole, the slotted hole goes over pin sticking out side of rebound slide and flag goes in front of hammer. Slide the hammer block all the way up on pin in slot. Lay top of matching channel in side plate for this block on block arm and slide side plate up so tit on top goes under top pd frame and press down eon side plate. Should go home. Sometimes you have to mess with hammer block and side plate to get this right. I hope I remembered everything right.

Good luck.

Hondo44 · #3 08-24-2018, 07:56 AM

Welcome to the forum.

It's a Model of 1953, 32 hand Ejector from 1957.

Except for the coil mainspring, this video shows a 38 M&P with same action as yours. Steelslayer's excellent directions will do it for you and this video may speed it up a bit:

I don't use the special tool but it does make it a bit easier.

Wiregrassguy · #4 08-24-2018, 08:12 AM

The tip of a Bic pen works well to put the rebound slide spring back in.

Guy

KEN L · #5 08-24-2018, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GHOST5035

Hello friends I recently picked up what I believe to be a s&w 32 long 3rd change revolver it’s in rough shape and it had an issue that it would not lock back in single action I took it apart to try and find issue with no resolve also now I’m having trouble getting it together the memory card that I had the files corrupted on it and I cannot find any YouTube videos to help me anyone have any pictures or advice

It is a .32 Hand Ejector Pre-Model 30, most likely from mid to late 1956 (Jul - Dec time frame).

steelslaver · #6 08-24-2018, 11:59 AM

PS, the problem with it not locking back in single actio is probably the sear on trigger or hammer. Look at both well to see if one is rounded of. Onece the gun is back together, minus main spring, pull the hammer back and look at where the "toe" of it is near the trigger. A ledge (sear) on it should want to engage with a ledge (sear)on trigger.

Muley Gil · #7 08-24-2018, 01:07 PM

Welcome to the Forum.

I hope you have more parts than what are shown.

El Biblioitecario · #8 08-24-2018, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GHOST5035

...I cannot find any YouTube videos to help me anyone have any pictures or advice

If you are comfortable digesting information which cannot be obtained via smartphone, I would suggest the S&W shop manual by Kuhnhausen. I've used it to successfully detail strip S&W revolvers, and no one will ever accuse me of being mechanically inclined.

GHOST5035 · #9 08-24-2018, 03:46 PM

Thank you all so much I will look at the videos tonight and try to get it back together and yes I have all the parts just figured I would post pictures that may be relevant for people to be able to figure out what the gun is I appreciate everyone so much for the quick response this place is amazing!!!!!!!!!!!

GHOST5035 · #10 08-24-2018, 04:04 PM

Okay guys this is where I am the first picture is what im used to but in the gun I have I have the second pictures its not a coil spring its round with two l shaped ends I have never come across this before

handejector · #11 08-24-2018, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steelslaver

Smallest coil spring about 3/16 od goes in hole in front of frame cut out above front of trigger guard. Then the bolt that locks up cylinder goes on its stud.

That "bolt" is called a "cylinder stop" by S&W.
The bolt is what the thumb latch moves.

I'm afraid this particular gun has the torsion spring that operates the cylinder stop. We can see it in the second pic.
You might want to just take it to a gunsmith that knows S&Ws.

handejector · #12 08-24-2018, 04:13 PM

I was typing as you were.
That is a torsion spring I referred to.
It is rather hard to explain how it fits. Maybe someone else can....

handejector · #13 08-24-2018, 04:24 PM

The loop on the spring fits on the stud.
Arms point downward.
One arms pushes on the frame, the other fits in the notch on the cylinder stop.

GHOST5035 · #14 08-24-2018, 04:44 PM

is there a possible video out there on those kind of springs because when I set it down in there there is no notch on the cylinder stop for it to fit in.

Hondo44 · #15 08-24-2018, 05:03 PM

Installing the early style Model of 1953 torsion spring used on the cyl stop with the offset leg:

My first advice is to put the gun in a 1 gal size Ziploc bag with both hands inside the bag as well while installing the stop and spring as an assembly.

Correct positioning is the two coils go over the stop stud and the legs go down like an upside down V, close to how it looks above. So the leg on the right with one bend rests against the front of the frame cut where the 5th screw (I & J frame screw count) would be entering if there was one. The rear leg with two bends rests in the lower corner at the front of the stop.

When I assemble the spring, I place it under the cyl stop with the hole in the stop aligned with and on top of the coils. So it’s sort of captured under the stop, and start the assembly over the stud. As I begin to push it down onto the stud with left hand, the stop ball is pivoted down to clear the bottom of the cyl window, and my right hand thumbnail (or small screwdriver blade) puts tension on the front leg so it’ll slip into position as the assembly is pushed down onto the stud.

As you can see, the torsion spring is at full tension during this process! Hence why it was changed to a simple coil spring with a pocket in the front of the stop and one in the frame cutout where the 5th screw would be.

Hope this helps.

GHOST5035 · #16 08-24-2018, 05:53 PM

is this like your stating I put it in and it sorta looks like the picture but its loose will it remain loose till I finish inserting everything else? I hope this picture is somewhat clear

handejector · #17 08-24-2018, 06:07 PM

You don't have the spring positioned correctly.
Both ends have to be forward of the cyl stop.
See Pic- the spring is the yellow line.

GHOST5035 · #18 08-24-2018, 06:20 PM

you are all amazing my friends I believe I got it right now and it has pressure on it like it should much thanks friends

Hondo44 · #19 08-24-2018, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GHOST5035

is this like your stating I put it in and it sorta looks like the picture but its loose will it remain loose till I finish inserting everything else? I hope this picture is somewhat clear

You missed this part of the instruction in #15 above:

"The rear leg with two bends rests in the lower corner at the FRONT of the stop."

GHOST5035 · #20 08-24-2018, 06:54 PM

This is it assembled back it still will not lock back in single action but when I do cock it back the trigger goes back as if it is only double action can yall verify ?

Hondo44 · #21 08-24-2018, 07:41 PM

It should lock into SA mode at the stage and positions of hammer and trigger you show in the photos.

So see post #6 above by steelslayer.

SA hammer notch and/or trigger sear mating surfaces need some skillful attention or replacement parts.