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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 08-24-2018, 07:18 PM
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I stopped by my favorite LGS last week and found this guy in the display case. I put it on hold until today because I bought a six-inch, Nickle M586 last weekend at my favorite LGS in Kelso, WA.
It has hammer block safety and all numbers match including the stocks. It's in great shape and doesen't look like it's been used much. Serial number is V7266XX. Can anyone give me an idea on when it was manufactured? TIA, here a few pics.

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Old 08-24-2018, 08:51 PM
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I love it! I can't help you with any historical facts but I would love to learn everything about this one.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo Batali View Post
....
It has hammer block safety and all numbers match including the stocks. It's in great shape and doesen't look like it's been used much. Serial number is V7266XX. Can anyone give me an idea on when it was manufactured? ...
That's a nice one. Looks all original.

It does not have the new hammer block, by the way. Too early for that, it's from late 1944, and none of the BSR's got that anyway. It has the old style like all Victorys until the US version started getting the new one around V 769000, marked by an added S.

It got to Britain fairly late in the war, which likely explains the good condition. It also came back fairly early; the post-war British commercial proofs are the pre-1955 style under the "Rule of 1925". Most surplus BSR's show the new style and were therefore not surplused out and proofed until the later 1950s.

Last edited by Absalom; 08-24-2018 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:32 PM
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Gorgeous. Can you get ammo for that?
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Old 08-24-2018, 11:36 PM
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Closest SN on my list to V726654 is V7238xx which shipped in 11/44. It does have a hammer drop safety (all Victories did), but the "improved" drop safety didn't ship until very early in 1945. Those had the SV prefix to the SN. Have you confirmed that the chambers have not been elongated to accept .38 Special cartridges? It makes a considerable difference in value.

Last edited by DWalt; 08-24-2018 at 11:41 PM.
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:04 AM
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Thanks for the information and kind words. I'll check the chambers in the morning. From what I can see it doesn't look like they have been altered.

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Old 08-25-2018, 06:57 AM
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The hammer and trigger looked Parkerized along with the rest of the revolver... is that unusual? Or am I being fooled by the lighting?
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:10 AM
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Gorgeous. Can you get ammo for that?
.38 S&W is available from a variety of sources , but not on sale at WalMart. Usually have to eat shipping ; that runs the cost up.
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:35 AM
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.38 S&W is available from a variety of sources , but not on sale at WalMart. Usually have to eat shipping ; that runs the cost up.

I find it at Academy Sports and Cabelas. Dick's may carry it but I don't shop the commie stores.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waveski View Post
The hammer and trigger looked Parkerized along with the rest of the revolver... is that unusual? Or am I being fooled by the lighting?
I paused at that too, but I think it is the lighting. Notice how it changes from picture to picture. In photo 1, they both look darker, like the proper case color. In photo 2, the hammer looks fishy, but the trigger is good. In photo 5, the hammer is good, but the trigger actually looks shiny. The case coloring here is certainly not as vibrant as it could be, but I don’t think they have another finish.

PS: For an example of how light can mess with case color, look at the trigger in the two attached photos of the same gun I took under less than ideal artificial light.
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File Type: jpg 7EB0F947-74F2-41D8-949E-F4E9DF89B529.jpg (81.2 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by Absalom; 08-25-2018 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:39 AM
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To answer a couple of questions. The hammer and trigger are case hardened. It's evident under a strong light, not quite as vibrant as on some of my other guns. A .38 Special cartridge will not chamber in any of the charge holes so it hasn't been converted. I'm pretty happy with it. Now, to hand load some ammo for it and shoot it

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Old 08-25-2018, 04:22 PM
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I am pleased to hear that your revolver has not been reamed. You have a real nice one there.
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Old 08-26-2018, 06:21 PM
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Fredo, when you reload, don't forget that the 38 S&W bullets are a slight bit larger than .38 Specials. Hence the problem with any of them that have been reamed. I have several of the 38 S&Ws and they are quite fun to shoot. More than a .32 long but less than the .38 special. Can't remember the load I use but keep them soft when you reload and they are loads of fun. You can order the proper size bullet (.361 If i remember right) from several of the supply houses.
Larry
P.S. I think that is original finish from the machining marks on the frame. Most of those would be gone if refinished. The late war ones I have seen were not the prettiest ever created.

Last edited by Oldiron; 08-26-2018 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 08-26-2018, 07:28 PM
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Larry,

Ordered up 500, 200 grain .360 dia. bullets yesterday. I have a thousand or so brass from loading for my grandsons Regulation Police I gave him for his birthday a couple of years ago. I think I'll be shooting this old guy quite a bit

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Old 08-26-2018, 07:37 PM
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.360-.361 bullets are correct, but .357-.358 lead bullets as used in .38 Special will perform just fine. In fact at least one reloading manual recommends them. For a long time those bullets were all I used for reloading the .38 S&W.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:17 PM
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DWalt,

I have several thousand .357-.358 lead bullets on hand. I'll try some of those. Thanks for the tip

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Old 08-27-2018, 10:44 PM
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Another thing ( if regular 357round nose do not give adequate accuracy -which is likely anyway) is to load 148 grain hollow base wadcutters
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