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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 09-15-2018, 08:54 AM
dabrew dabrew is offline
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Question Trying to identify Smith & Wesson revolver

The number on the butt of the gun is difficult to read but it looks like it is 6485. It shoots 32s. Just let me know any additional information needed. Trying to determine the year it was made and possible worth. My father gave it to me 30+ years ago. Still in great condition. Now that I'm retired, I'm trying to figure out just what I've got. Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:59 AM
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It's a .32 Hand Ejector first model (of 1896), the first S & W of its type (top breaks were still their main product line at that time) and their first gun chambered in .32 S & W Long. 19,712 were made from 1896 to 1901 so late 1890s?

From the nickel plated hammer and trigger I would guess it has been refinished, so depending on its mechanical condition perhaps a $300 gun.
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:09 AM
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Looks to me like a refinished .32 hand ejector 1st model and your serial places it in the 1896- 1901 time frame. It was S&W's very first version of a gun with the swing out cylinder. A lot of changes were made on preceding models so your gun is quite a bit different than most revolvers. Because of refinish I can not guess to value. Enjoy shooting that old timer!
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:10 AM
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It hasn't been refinished. Everything is original. It shoots great and straight
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:21 AM
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I'm curious what the engraving on the cylinder reads...?
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:07 AM
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IIRC, Patent dates.
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:18 AM
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What a great heirloom to keep in the family!

It's unmistakably been re-nickel plated. The hammer and trigger were not plated on factory nickel guns, they were color case hardened.

All the little spots showing in the nickel surface are old rust pits that were not polished out before plating because they are too deep.

Look for a tiny 'B' stamped on the flat spot under the barrel close to the frame, which would indicate if the gun was originally blued.

There's other locations to read the serial #:
NOTE: Observing serial #s for accuracy or even existence, especially on penciled stocks, requires magnification, bright light, and an attitude that it is there!

1. Gun butt - or fore strap on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt
2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud (read with barrel muzzle pointing to the right on the 1896 Model)
3. Extractor star - backside
4. Cylinder - rear face
5. Right stock only - on back; stamped, scratched or penciled on.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 09-15-2018 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F75gunslinger View Post
I'm curious what the engraving on the cylinder reads...?
Smith & Wesson,

their address,

and four patent dates.

There's no caliber marking on the gun because it was only chambered for one caliber; .32 S&W, both long and short.
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Old 09-15-2018, 12:37 PM
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In contrast to other S&W revolvers, the serial does not allow even an approximate dating through extrapolation.

The Model 1896 shipped from 1896 until as late as 1903/04. But the frames and serials were all produced in 1896/97 and then apparently randomly assembled and shipped as orders came in. There is no order at all to the serial sequence, so your gun could have shipped at any point during that time frame. Only a letter would tell.
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Old 09-15-2018, 01:37 PM
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If the gun shoots straight, feels tight, and is valued as a family heirloom, it hardly matters if it has been refinished.

Just to reassure you that your correspondents here not being gratuitously picky or negative, one other indication of a refinish is the flatted end of the hammer stud on the left side of the revolver. When new, those stud ends are domed and protrude above the level of the surrounding frame. When you see a flattened stud on an older revolver, it's an indication of a post-sale polishing to smooth out an old surface before adding the new one.

Nice gun, and great heirloom. Keep and shoot it in safety and good health!
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:24 PM
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Thanks everyone. I am definitely keeping. Just a nice feeling handgun. If it was refinished it had to be done before my father gave it to me. He was a gunsmith and picked it up from a customer who was short of cash to pay him for some work he did on a shotgun for him. I know he didn't do any work on it. I took it by a privately owned gun shop years ago in Tennessee as I was looking to buy a little holster for it and he told me not to holster it but to wrap it in a gun sock so as not to hurt the finish. I was a bit surprised when he told me the value so that's why I keep thinking it wasn't re nickeled but I hear what you're saying. Too bad Pop isn't around to ask but it is a keeper
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:37 PM
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Just to put it into perspective the gun is about 120 years old and if the ops' father received the gun 60 years ago it had aleady been around the block for about 60 years. It is beautiful and I highly doubt it would look anywhere as good as it does, if it had retained it's original finish especially if it was nickel plated to begin with. The old original nickel plating did not hold up well and back then black powder was still being used in ammunition and blackpowder is just devastating to finish unless it is immediately disassembled, washed off with soap and water, then allowed proper drying time then reassembled again. I doubt anybody went through all that back then every time they shot a gun. Shoot it and enjoy it as it was meant to be.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:50 PM
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SN 8216 shipped on 4/30/1897. All of the 1896s are considered as "antiques" (pre-1899) by the BATFE regardless of SN. Despite its having been refinished, you are fortunate to have it.

Last edited by DWalt; 09-15-2018 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:49 PM
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I agree with others who believe the revolver has been refinished. Except for the breakage on the bottom of the left side stock, the grips are in excellent condition, perhaps also replaced? The wear on the right side grip doesn't match what we assume is the pitting under the plating. Odd.
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