Hello All,

A few weeks back I posted about my two Model 27s, a newly aquired 1956 5" Pre-27, and a 1969 6" 27-2. Both are beyond superb shooters with one exception: Certain ammo was struggling to ignite in the Pre-27, that the 27-2 had no problem with. The ammo in question was mostly my reloaded 38 special, with a handful of Winchester factory ammo mixed in. All of the reloads ignited on the second strike, and all but two of the Winchester factory ammo ignited on a second strike as well, with the last two appearing to be duds altogether. I did successfully fire an entire box of factory-loaded Remington Target 38 Special through the Pre-27 without issue however.

I took to analyzing the problem further today, suspecting that either the hammer nose was worn beyond spec, though this doesn't seem to be the case, or perhaps the mainspring had worn out. Since I was taking off the side plate, I used the opportunity as well to perform a complete action disassembly, cleaning, and relubrication, in the off-chance that old dirt and grease were not helping with function.

When I removed the mainspring, I noticed right away that it did not look like a standard S&W spring, rather that it had a rib that ran part of the way up it. A quick search online shows that this is a Wolff Spring, its rib design supposedly reduces stack-up and improves the trigger pull. In comparison the the 27-2, I can certainly feel a difference, though lacking a trigger pull scale, I cannot say that one is lighter than the other, just a little different.

Presumably, I am thinking that the Pre-27 was fitted with Wolff's reduced power mainspring, rather than the factory standard weight spring. I am considering replacing the spring with a Wolff factory power spring to see if it increases the reliability with my reloads, though I'd also consider a plain S&W mainspring as well.

My question to you all is: Who uses the Wolff mainsprings in their S&W revolvers? If you do, do you like them? Are they worth the hype, or are they not as reliable/good as the factory standard springs? Wolff being the king of springs, I'd guess it's not purely hype, but what say you?

Thanks.

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I believe that the ribbed main spring is a Wolff reduced power version. When I tried this spring in two different Smith & Wessons, I experienced the same or worse light strike misfires that you have encountered. Put a full power spring in your M27 and see if that solves the problem for you.

I have used many Wolff springs in several different brand pistols and revolvers with excellent results except for the reduced power main spring in the S&W revolvers.

I have used Wolff springs in SOME of my S&W revolvers, both K and N frame. I have had no cause to complain about them except once, when I also had a lightened hammer on the weapon. That gave me misfire problems, so I went with a standard rather than reduced power spring.

How bout the Miculek main springs, any chance of that problem with the Miculek replacements? I was just about to order a set for my 3rd model 44, it's got a pretty heavy pull. I have had it apart and cleaned and lubed it, but it's a pretty heavy double action pull.

I hope this doesn't offend the OP, not trying to drift the thread.

No problem at all... Actually, I hadn't heard of Miculek Springs. I know Jerry is a champion shooter and S&W spokesman, but didnt know he was selling springs now. I might take a look myself.

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The only Miculek spring(s) I know of are those in his kit (mainspring and rebound spring)------and I know of those because I've installed the kit in one of my guns. The nature of the kit (and the installation) is such that you set the DA pull where you want it. If/when you get it absolutely perfect, aside from the fact it won't pop primers, a re-installation with a new/longer strain screw is in the offing---no big deal.

My DA pull is 7 pounds, which Miculek cautions is only good with Federal ammo/primers. Mine is good with WW, because I didn't have anything else handy.

So----bottom line: Maybe my trigger pull gauge reads different than his. Whatever, as already noted, if at first you don't succeed, get another strain screw and try it again. The end result is entirely up to you.

Ralph Tremaine

A cautionary note: If you know pretty much everything there is to know about these things, and just stick the springs in without bothering with the instructions (like I did), popping primers will be the least of your worries. Your gun will not function at all. Then you'll read the instructions---follow them------and say, "Oh!".

I have never been a fan of the Wolf ribbed mainspring. The "hollow" on the rib is where the strain screw normally fits into, and most strain screws are then too short to properly set the spring. I have always used factory springs, with occasionally doing a little tuning of the spring.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have mixed feelings on mainsprings. I had two revolvers, a M37 and a M29, worked on by Austin Behlert. I believe that what he did was to smooth them up, and fairly drastically alter the mainsprings, and perhaps other springs. He also removed the hammer blocks, which I just as quickly replaced. Both revolvers functioned perfectly.

I also had a Model 10 which I occasionally found inoperable when I pulled the trigger, no matter how hard I pulled. It turned out that I was not letting the trigger return completely. This could possibly be considered a personal problem, and may also include some relationship with choice of grips. Regardless, I now use only factory rebound slide springs and mainsprings, although probably only the former makes a difference. Note that I have had a problem only with the K frame, and not with the J or N, and that it seems to have some relation to hand size and grips (also known less formally as handles and pedantically but incorrectly as stocks).

Best wishes.

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Formerly Model520Fan

I have tried Wolf springs and once bought a BANG spring kit too. I found them unsatisfactory. As stated the point of the main spring strain screw sets in the rib and reduces strength. I had misfires with them. However, I have two Performance Center guns with them and they seem to work fine!

I only use the factory springs in my shooting guns, as I like them to be reliable with all primers.

Another however, I have worked on a couple new guns that seemed to have a heavier, thicker mainspring than the older guns. See if you can find some older original springs. There is nothing wrong with an 8 1/2 or 9 pound double action pull.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

S&W uses the Wolfe springs in the 625-8 PC that I own. The rib can make a difference on a minimum length strain screw. Put a used primer cup, with the anvil removed, over the end of the screw. This will make it wide enough to put a bit more pressure on the spring outside the rib. Once installed it can not come off unless the spring breaks or the screw backs out.

I don't mess with reduced power mainsprings. I'm more interested in accuracy than light DA pull. But don't listen to me. Here's Doug Wesson, back in the 1930s:
"Another point that affects the accuracy of any arm to a surprising extent is the weight of hammer nose or firing pin blow on the primer; this is entirely overlooked by many who attempt to ease the action of their revolvers or reduce the trigger pull by weakening the main spring or relieving the tension by backing out the strain screw. The fact that the hammer blow is sufficient to ignite the primer is no indication that the blow has the proper weight for uniform ignition, even though there may be no misfires; there is bound to exist in primers a variation in sensitiveness and the hammer blow must be such that it will produce complete ignition in all cases. The targets shown here indicate plainly the results of lack of uniform ignition; the first group was made with the mainspring at the proper tension, the second, with the main spring slacked off to obtain a lighter blow, but not to the extent of producing misfires. The groups shown were fired in the order shown, using a Magnum in the machine rest, and the 12 cartridges were from the same box, and under identical conditions, but for the fact that the mainspring tension screw was backed out several turns, thus lightening the hammer blow on the primer. The most casual study of the illustrations can but impress one with the necessity of the selection of the proper weight of blow if one is attempting to obtain the utmost in accuracy."
See attached picture.

Jim

Attached Images

image.jpg (71.3 KB, 11 views)

I'll just go pop some corn, shall I?

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Oh well, what the hell.