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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 10-02-2018, 02:31 AM
Airborne423 Airborne423 is offline
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Default My 1955 S&W Model 37 Airweight

Hello, I am almost new to this Site. I have a question about my Model 37 Airweight. This gun was made in 1955. Can I use the regular .38 caliber 158 gr. lead nose bullets without damaging this gun.
I mean can i go to the range and fire 1 or 2 boxes of today's .38 caliber, 158 gr. bullets?
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:19 AM
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Should be no problem using modern 38 Special ammo in an older model 37. Best to stay away from +p loads.

BTW, are you sure about the 1955 date?

S&W didn't put model numbers on guns until about 1958.
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:45 AM
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Default Airweight model 37

Hello, yes I called S&W and they (talked to more than 1 person) told me that the gun I have was made in 1955. I asked about shooting the modern day .38 bullets, and they said it would be alright. The people there sounded so young that I thought I should get a few more opinions about the Ammo to use.
Thank you for your reply. By the way, am I in the right section to be asking a question about my gun? The S&W Sites seem to be so confusing at times! I am new at this.
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:11 AM
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First, seems as though I recall a recommended bullet grain-weight limit for the early 37s. A diet of 158 gr. bullets may be too heavy. But I could be wrong; call them again and ask. Your better of with Hornady FTX 110 gr. or Hydra-Shok JHP 110 gr. ammo anyway.

Second, I'd stay away from non-jacketed soft lead bullets unless you don't mind spending half your free time trying to clean the lead out of your bore. Semi-jacketed lead bullets should be OK.

Last edited by RAMS; 10-02-2018 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:16 AM
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Default Airweight model 37

Thank you for the reply Rams.

I was also told that 125 gr. lead nose bullet would be a safe round to use.

I won't be shooting this gun that much any way. Maybe once or twice a year just to see if i can still hit an 8" x 14" target. I remember as a young PO in 1966, the range instructors would tell us not to shoot to many .38 caliber bullets through an airweight revolver. Also, I sometimes carry it in my pocket, inside a Kramer pocket holster. I always wondered though what they meant by too many rounds!
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:28 AM
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Airborne423, here is my model 37 which I bought new in 1978 that has thousands of rounds through it and it is still quite tight. I shoot 158 gr lead along with 148 gr. lead wadcutters. I have zero leading. The main point about shooting a 37 is that after a box of factory loads you really don't want to shoot any more. The recoil is a "bit" snappy. Wadcutter target loads suit the weight of the gun best. Enjoy your 37, great pocket revolver and you will be surprised at the guns accuracy.

Stu

Last edited by stu1ritter; 10-02-2018 at 09:30 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:01 AM
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OP -- you have excellent taste in revolvers!
Buy a bunch of mild loads on-line and have a stash.
Being a dedicated reloader I err on the side of mild for all my guns. Heavy loads are going to put unnecessary wear on even the stoutest gun.
I limit heavy loads to actual hunting and carry ammo.

Last edited by max503; 10-02-2018 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:38 PM
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Default Model 37 Airweight

Thank you Stu and Max for the information. Stu, you are 'right on' about the Model 37 having a 'snappy' kick when shooting. I mentioned shooting 2 boxes of ammo just to see if anyone would holler 'don't do it, you will damage the gun.'

I usually carry a Model 317 snub nose with 8 rounds of .22.
I know, not too much stopping power. I carry it only because it is so light, and as a last resort weapon.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airborne423 View Post
Thank you for the reply Rams.

I was also told that 125 gr. lead nose bullet would be a safe round to use.

I won't be shooting this gun that much any way. Maybe once or twice a year just to see if i can still hit an 8" x 14" target. I remember as a young PO in 1966, the range instructors would tell us not to shoot to many .38 caliber bullets through an airweight revolver. Also, I sometimes carry it in my pocket, inside a Kramer pocket holster. I always wondered though what they meant by too many rounds!
The instructors meant too many hot loads; you can fire as many mild (mid-range) loads as you want. Further, I seem to recall that in the nineteen fifties/earlysixties "standard" .38 Spl. loads were hotter than today's standard loads.

Back in the day before the lawyers took over, S&W people told me that many folks used hot loads in a 37 for carry rounds because your life was more important, and a cylinder full probably wouldn't harm the little beauty anyway.
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:57 PM
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It has yet to be properly determined whether or not the gun in question is a Model 37. With the cylinder opened, it should be plainly stamped on the yoke frame MOD 37. If it is, the gun most definitely was NOT made in 1955, regardless of what someone at S&W told you. It the gun is not stamped MOD 37, then it can be considered a PRE 37. If you could provide the serial number as stamped on the bottom of the grip frame, someone here can tell you a very close approximation of when your gun was shipped.
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:00 AM
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I too am new to this site and picked up a MOD 37 a few months ago.
I had the same questions and a search brought up this thread.

I wondered about the date of manufacture so I estimated about 1960 (serial 1974xx).

Thanks for all the info.
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorcarman View Post
I too am new to this site and picked up a MOD 37 a few months ago.
I had the same questions and a search brought up this thread.

I wondered about the date of manufacture so I estimated about 1960 (serial 1974xx).

Thanks for all the info.
I’d put that s/n at late ‘58 or early ‘59. By 1960, they were up around 225000 or so.

The OP’s gun would have to fall between 55050 and 75000 to be a 1955 gun.
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:17 PM
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Default Sorry for the delay in answering.

The model 37 that i have has a serial number 68370. it was purchased used in 2003 at the old Briet & Johnson gun store. i might consider selling it now? i have another s&w model 37-2 that is holstered on my bed post. both guns are in really good condition too. no problems shooting either at the range.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:26 PM
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The serial number from your gun in question, 68370, would place it most likely in 1955. Since we now know the serial number and date, you do not have a Model 37. The Model 37 did not come into existence until 1958. Prior to that, and what you have, is a ".38 Chiefs Special Airweight". It is often called a Pre-37 by collectors and gun folks. If it's not stamped "MOD 37" on the yoke, it's not technically a Model 37.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:01 PM
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Default To: kscharlie

Thanks kscharlie, but what is the difference between the model 37, and the .38 Chief's special airweight? Is it really the same gun with a different model number. In your opinion is there any difference in the quality of my gun made in 1955, and the model 37 airweight that you refer to?
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:08 PM
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The difference is that in 1958, S&W stamped "MOD 37" on the yoke. The .38 Chiefs Special Airweight that left the factory 5 minutes earlier did not have MOD 37 on the yoke. Same gun.

Prior to 1958, ALL S&W revolvers were referenced by a name. Such as "Chiefs Special", "K-38 Masterpiece", "K-38 Combat Masterpiece", "K-22 Masterpiece", etc. Beginning in 1958, all S&W revolvers received new designations, that being "Model nn". Such as "Model 36", "Model 14", "Model 15", "Model 17", etc. Each of the new Model designations were then stamped on the yoke as "MOD nn" where nn was a number.

As significant engineering enhancements were made to each model revolver, the model designation went to a -n, such as 14-1, 14-2, 14-3 etc. And they were so stamped on the yoke as "MOD 14-1" and on down the line. So, again, technically speaking, if MOD 14 is not stamped on the yoke, the gun is not a Model 14.

If your airweight was made in 1955, and a stamped Model 37 was made in 1958, there is not an iota of difference in the quality of the gun. That is my opinion, since you asked.

Enjoy your Airweight. That is one that is still on my list.
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airborne423 View Post
... is there any difference in the quality of my gun made in 1955, and the model 37 airweight...?
I believe the answer is "No."

Your Chiefs Special Airweight, though, has a 4-screw frame, whereas the Model 37 (1958 and beyond) has a 3-screw frame.
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Old 08-20-2019, 01:26 PM
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Default Message For Bob

Hello Bob, sorry for the long delay. I checked again with S&W about the serial # on my .38 Airweight, serial # 68370.
S&W tells me that this revolver that I have was made in 1955, and there are only 3 screws on the side plate, and not 4.

Regards,
Airborne 423
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:21 PM
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One screw could be hidden under top of grip. Also is there J in front of the number? If so it is fron 69 nit 55
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:07 PM
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I suppose the elephant in the room, that seems everyone is avoiding, is if the cylinder is alloy or steel. Very likely, it is an alloy cylinder here and if so, a whole different set of dynamics here. Sal
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Old 08-21-2019, 01:00 PM
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Hello to all, I checked again, took off the grips too. There are only 3 screws on the side plate. The barrel is also stamped on one side "Airweight 38 spl. ctg." The yoke is stamped with "18817." ..... and enough said about this gun. Hope I did not bore all of you with this information.
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Old 08-21-2019, 04:57 PM
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On the Chief's Specials, the screw count, and / or the MODEL NUMBER(S) are not that much of a deal breaker.

There were great spans of time where the earlier J-frames remained in stock prior to being shipped.
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:06 PM
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Default The more missing or misplaced digits, the merrier, I feel.

the more the merrier ...
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:36 PM
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From old ship date request:

06-09-2016, 06:01 PM

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Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512
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Default Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512

Roy, Thanking you in advance. Odd thing about SN: 14512 is that it has the early type, upper side plate screw yet is is model stamped MOD-40. No SNs on the barrel or cylinder.
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:49 PM
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Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512 Centennial 2" blue,.38 Spl. Model 40, SN: 14512
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Sal, Model 40 serial number 14512 was in shipped January 1959. It took a long time to use up the older parts for this model. Hope that this helps. Roy
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:42 PM
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I was made in 1955 and shooting 158 grain bullets hasn't hurt me a bit.

(But I'm no lightweight 😜&#128523
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