I bought the Kuhnhausen Revolvers book and while it does cover the single leaf spring versions, I was wondering if there are better books for very early models (Model of 1896, 1st model M frame etc) that have two leaf springs. This is so i have a reference for "Strip, clean, lube, reassemble"

I saw a book by David Chicoine which is just assembly instructions and was wondering if that covered these models as well as the antiques.

Any other suggestions would be helpful.

Chicoine's book covers S&W tip-ups and top-breaks in detail but doesn't cover any hand ejectors.

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SWHF #448

Take pics BEFORE and in steps AS you disassemble.
Keep any parts you have left over.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Oh definitely, you never know when you'll need them!

Or you can sell 'em!

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Chicoine's Antique Firearms Assembly/Disassembly covers several "very early" hand ejectors "with two leaf springs", specifically, Model 1896, Model 1899, Model 1902, and some others. It does not cover the Ladysmith (per se).

A word to the wise: Chicoine's methodology for removing/installing the trigger spring in those models "with two leaf springs" is problematic. Mike Priwer deserves the credit for simplifying the procedure and the life of any and all who wish to perform this task-----and having just been called to dinner, I'll recite it later if there's any interest noted.

Ralph Tremaine

Please do!

Okay---from the book: " To remove the trigger and its attendant parts: Using an appropriate sized pin punch, drive out the trigger spring pin (located in the front grip strap). This will free the trigger spring (#564) for removal." (You have just been instructed to remove a fastener securing three parts (trigger spring, trigger lever, and rebound lever), all of which are under significant load/pressure provided by the trigger spring. The severe pain you feel in your teeth is your brain telling you something's missing----and/or following these instructions is fraught with peril. We shall refrain from speculating about who's at fault---author, editor, neither, both, none of the above.)

An alternative approach: Having removed the mainspring and hammer (as would also be the case with the book method) pull the trigger to the rear as far as it goes and hold it there. (The trigger spring is now fully compressed.) Insert special tool #MP-DBAD-1 between the compressed trigger spring and the interior of the frame at a point adjacent to the aft sideplate screw hole. At this point, it becomes necessary to describe the special tool so you can make it. The raw material is a piece of wooden dowel rod (1/4-3/8" in diameter) cut to suit and beat to fit in the space between the trigger spring and the frame across the way. Having accomplished same, release the trigger, and move it to its forward position. Remove the trigger, trigger lever, and rebound lever as an assembly. Assembly is, as they say, the reverse of the foregoing.

Now, you can leave the trigger spring and the special tool installed in the gun, or take it out as the spirits move you. Being of the obsessive, compulsive sort, I remove it---thus: Secure the compressed spring with Chicoine's favorite tool ("spreader type pliers"), and remove the special tool. Now release the pliers (and trigger spring), and proceed to remove the trigger spring in a leisurely and civilized fashion--confident in the knowledge you will not break your punch, and the several monkey motion trigger parts will not go flying across the room. And again, assembly is the reverse of the above.

As noted earlier, this special tool is the creation of Mike Priwer----and it works!!

Ralph Tremaine

And let me know of any questions----or if I left something out, or otherwise screwed the pooch.

Another simple way to compress the trigger spring "just enough" is to get a pair of 4" needle nose vice grips and some tygon tubing or auto vacuum hose and slip it over both noses of the pliers and then you have an ultimately adjustable spring compressor plier using the screw of the vice grip. Just an auto mechanic's technique.

Stu